Monday 13 June 2011

Oolong progress

After a good deal of pondering and chin stroking I finally decided what I wanted to do about my Oolong lining.  I would underline it with a plain, similar coloured muslin.  Now, being both lazy AND impatient I didn't think I could bear two separate sessions of  cutting out from a single layer of fabric on the bias. So I put the underlining fabric underneath the dress fabric and cut them together.  Most unorthodox, but it did save a lot of time.  I then pressed each pattern piece which more or less caused the two layers to fuse together. An hour of sewing later and my fabric was underlined.  It couldn't have been more straight forward if I'd tried - the complete opposite of my silk lining fiasco in fact.  Phew.

Front bodice section
Now it was time to sew the bodice.  At this point I consulted Sunni's tips for sewing on the bias. Sunni gave me some excellent advice after my last Oolong post and plea for help.  I'm re-iterating them here but you can also find them in the Sewing School section of her blog, A Fashionable Stitch.  I urge anybody thinking of sewing on the bias to read through her tips before you begin - they're REALLY helpful.

Sunni's Tips for Sewing on the Bias
  • Use a longer stitch length than you probably normally do - like a 3mm. You can straight stitch or zigzag, but longer is better so that when the bias shrinks back up it won't pucker.
  • As you sew, pull/stretch the seams as you go (just a little, don't try to distort it). It really does work and helps the seams not to pucker too! 
  • One more tip when sewing is to sew strips of tissue paper or freezer paper to the actual seams. Then tear them away after you've sewn your seam.
  • I personally don't think that hanging the pieces - like the pattern says - really helps anything. Instead, hang the finished garment for 24 hours.
  • Don't finish the edges with a serger, instead pink or zigzag after you sew the seam.

Following the above tips to the letter (yes, even the tissue paper one), I sewed up the bodice which was now cut a size larger (8) and tried it on.  Joy of joys, it fitted!   I then sewed the skirt section and attached them together.  I'm now the proud owner of a bias cut dress (still minus sleeves and facings though).  The relief of it all working out OK in the end is enormous, I really thought I'd have to abandon the whole project.  It was worth persevering, as a bias cut dress skims your curves in the most flattering way.  Even though I say so myself, it looks much better on me than it does on the dummy, but here's a sneaky peek on said dummy anyway.  


I'll let you see the finished dress on its owner when I've given it sleeves and hemmed it.   Wahay! 

In other news, I sold a LOT of my handmade craft stuff at the fair on Saturday.  I'm pretty relieved about it as I made tons of stock.  So that's lots of hard earned cash to go fabric shopping with!  Happy Monday. x






15 comments:

  1. Wow! That sounds as though you have been working really carefully on the dress. Painstaking! Well done, you. And well done on the craft fair. More money to spend!

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  2. i love the oolong dress but have always been bummed that there aren't a lot of pictures of the finished garment online. can't wait to see yours - the fabric is so so lovely :)

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  3. That looks absolutely lovely. Can't wait to see the finished result.

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  4. Oh Jane this looks really good, i can't wait for thefinished photo.

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  5. It's shaping up beautifully, and the fabric is so rich and gorgeous. Look forward to seeing the finished article - you'll love it all the more after all the stress and hair-tearing-out!

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  6. It's coming along beautifully, I know it will look stunning when it's done - the fabric really is gorgeous! Congrats on a successful fair - kerching!!

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  7. It's starting to shape up really well! I'd like to have a go at the Oolong but like lladybird the lack of pictures has always put me off a bit - I await yours with interest!

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  8. Looking good! Clever going on bias sewing & underlining. You'll get there in the end - looking forward to seeing it in all its glory & well done on your craft sales :-)

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  9. This is looking wonderful Jane. I am so glad you mentioned these blogs I am going to add to favorites. Can't wait to see it finished!

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  10. Wow, this is looking good Jane...can't wait to see the final product. Just think how smug you'll be when you can show it off, after all the drama you've had with it!

    Glad to hear you did well at the craft fair...how exciting!

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  11. What a beautiful dress of the knock out kind !

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  12. Can't wait to see the finished result; it looks like it's going to be absolutely stunning! And that fabric is gorgeous. Is it vintage?

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  13. This is going to be soooo amazing. Hats of to your patience and skill! Congratulations on your craft sales too. Do you have any pictures of your craft makes? x

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  14. Some great tips especially those on underlining! Thank you so much! I started making Oolong last month but haven't finished it yet. I'm making mine unlined but think I may be underlining the next one after reading this post.

    Also, was great to briefly meet you outside Goldhawk Station last month, before I whizzed off with the rest of the Sew Weekly peeps.

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  15. It looks great and well worth all the effort (plus to learn new tricks and techniques), can't wait to see it finished and being worn. Really do love this fabric. Bethx

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