Friday, 17 April 2015

Jeans and bras: will I ever make my own?

There are some sewing avenues I don't tend to walk down. I've talked before about why I don't sew exercise gear (which is worth a read just for the comments section) and my first attempt at sewing knickers was an outright disaster. Lots of sewing bloggers seem to be making their own bras and/or jeans at the moment though, which got me thinking…

Let's start with jeans. The trouble with jeans is that I've found my ideal RTW pair and I very much doubt I could get a better fit by making my own. As long as they keep making them, I'll keep stockpiling buying them. If I were to make my own, I would definitely use the Ginger pattern which I already have in my stash. The high waisted version B is the exact same shape as my trusted RTW jeans and virtually every single pair I've seen on other blogs seems to be a great fit.

I think these jeans by Reana Louise are my favourites to date, every time I look at them I can feel myself being dragged nearer to the edge of the cliff! So jeans making almost gets a complete no, but let's just say there's a tiny chink in my armour...

What about making my own bras? 


Well that's an easy one. No. Way. Ever. The reason? Well, even after a recent trip to the bra bank (yes, such things actually do exist), to deposit 12 unwanted bras, I still own over 30 bras. What can I say? I love buying bras and can't seem to stop doing it! My epiphany came about 10 years ago when I discovered Bravissimo (no, I have no link with them, though I'd make a mighty fine ambassador if they ever came knocking!) Once I was accurately measured, every bra I've bought from there has been a great fit. I can understand why people would have a go at bra making if they've never managed to track down one that fits properly, but in my case, why would I ever want to make my own? I might be able to save a bit of money on materials - although I'm sure all the paraphernalia soon adds up - but I wouldn't be able to achieve the same level of comfort and fit.  Bra making looks finicky and precise and my lack of patience would be a definite obstacle. I'd also be terrified of the entire thing falling apart whilst I was wearing it. Can you imagine the horror?! In short, I think I can state categorically, I will never make my own bra! 

I buy very few clothes these days (apart from jeans and cardigans), so splashing out on shoes and undies is how I get my retail kicks. I'd like to hang onto that if I can!  Are there any bra-making converts amongst you? Or does it all seem more trouble than it's worth?  Have a good weekend. x

Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Lady Skater - Japanese style

I made this Lady Skater dress at Christmas, but totally forgot to blog about it until I saw Jenny's gorgeous top made from the same fabric recently. As it happens, the timing is pretty fortuitous, as it's much more of a spring dress than a winter one.

The fabric I used is the most beautiful double-layered, polka dot double knit (try saying that when you've had a few!) It's from Etsy shop Miss Matatabi. The two layers are fused together at regular intervals like double gauze and it does actually feel a bit like a knit version of double gauze: very soft to the touch and super cosy. I must point out that Miss Matatabi is the most dangerous fabric shop in the world! I clicked over there just now to get a link for the fabric and saw this - an Aran-look knit fabric!! How could I possibly resist?! Answer: I couldn't, so that will be winging its way over to me from Japan soon. 

Anyway, back to the dress… I did my usual bad trick of changing bits of the pattern in order to make them fit onto the fabric available. Luckily for me, knit fabric is very forgiving! The changes I made that were different from my last version were as follows:

-  Cut a size 4 all over (last time I cut a size 5 bodice and size 4 skirt)
-  Reduced width of shoulders slightly 
-  Shortened bodice by 1 inch
-  Took 3 ½ inches from the bottom skirt curve in order to fit onto the fabric
-  Cut sleeves as a lengthened version of the cap sleeve

I was happy with the fit of my first version, but actually the changes I made this time have resulted in a much better fit all round. I'm especially pleased with the shoulders as they were definitely a bit wide. Reducing the curve of the skirt has made it more of a quarter circle than a half circle which I also prefer.
It was super easy to construct - I sewed the whole thing on my overlocker and used a double needle for the neck and sleeve bands and the hem. 

The fabric is reversible so I felt obliged to try and show off the contrast somewhere on the dress. I went with contrasting neckband and sleeve bands. But… with hindsight, I wish I hadn't made the neckband contrasting as it does give a bit of a juvenile feel. It's annoying, but not enough to make me stop wearing it!

Contrast neckband and sleeve bands

View from the inside showing the reversible fabric
What I like about this pattern is that there's a separate bodice and skirt, so the finished dress looks rather like a neat, fitted Emery or Peony dress. The added bonus is that the lack of darts and the fact that it's made from knit fabric means you can whip this beauty up in no time. Even though it's made from a knit fabric, it's actually quite light and swishy to wear, so it's going to get a second lease of life as a spring dress!  Happy Tuesday. x

Friday, 10 April 2015

Liberty T shirt

When I say T shirt. I mean something that's very wearable and classic in style, with the added bonus that you can just pull it on over your head. I didn't want to make it from traditional T shirt fabric either, I wanted to step it up a notch, so this little number is made from Liberty Tana lawn. 

After a great deal of head scratching and pretending I knew what I was doing (I really didn't), I came up with a basic tee shape that I was happy with. Sadly, I can't give you the magical formula of how it was drafted as it's mostly a mash-up of my bodice block and the Colette Laurel top, with a bit of Simplicity 2154 thrown in for good measure. There are no zips or buttons (hoorah) so it does indeed slip on over your head like a T shirt, but there are also six darts added to give it a bit of shape. Once I'd stopped fiddling about with the pattern pieces, this was a very quick make. The hem and sleeves are simply overlocked and hemmed and the neckline is finished with bias binding (as per the Laurel top instructions).

I bought the fabric during a Liberty shopping trip with Scruffy Badger (Winnie), last summer. We both decided to make Laurel tops from our Liberty lawn (you can see Winnie's here), but she was a bit quicker off the mark than me - nearly a year quicker as it happens! Anyway, after my recent Liberty giveaway I had a mad urge to make something from a Liberty print so out it came. It's only a one metre remnant, but I was still able to get a top with sleeves out of it by folding the selvedges into the centre before cutting. The fabric design shows circles of black and cream flowers with some sort of polka dot action going on in the background. It's a very busy design which comes in handy for hiding all those darts, even I have to look carefully to find them!

I can see it becoming a real all-rounder in my wardrobe as it's such a classic style. It looks good tucked into a denim skirt, or worn loose with slim trousers and wedges.  Ah, a Liberty T shirt, the best of both worlds in my opinion!  x

Wednesday, 8 April 2015

Liberty lawn giveaway winner

Wow! Thank you all so much for your enthusiasm for my Liberty fabric giveaway. It was the most popular giveaway yet, with over 300 entries! Sadly, there can only be one winner and this time round it's…..Nicola Ashman, who wins a metre of Liberty fabric from Sewbox. Congratulations Nicola, an email will be on its way to you shortly.

Thank you to everybody who entered and BIG thanks to Susan at Sewbox for such a generous giveaway. Seeing all those beautiful Liberty fabrics has inspired me to dig out some Tana lawn from my own stash. Hopefully I'll have something to show off soon….

Thanks also for your get well messages, they were much appreciated. I've definitely turned a corner but still sound exactly like Marge Simpson! 

Have a good week. x

Friday, 3 April 2015

A bit of crafting

Easter holidays + a horrible stinking cold = lots of lying around on the sofa feeling sorry for myself. There hasn't been much dressmaking going on I'm afraid, but I did manage to get on with a few crafty makes for a recent Rosy Rosie order. Wanna see what I made?

Lined, zipped purses. They always looks neat and professional and are a good way of using up scraps of fabric. I use this tutorial to make them and would highly recommend it - it's clear, to the point and gives great results. 

Tooth Fairy Cushions. These were one of my best selling lines when I sold at craft fairs. Adding the pockets is a bit fiddly, but the final cute factor soon outweighs everything else! This little batch was made with girls in mind. 

Drawstring bag and wash bag sets. I've made lots of these recently! The wash bag is made using my own tutorial. The larger drawstring bag uses exactly the same principle but is scaled up in size (about 18" wide by 20" long). I also add a solid coloured cotton for the inside layer rather than waterproof fabric.

If you like the fabrics then you can still find the owl print here (only a tiny amount of green left, but there's still some in a brown colourway) and the fox fabric in a couple of different colours here.

I also like this bonkers cow print poplin. It's nice quality and as well as being perfect for washbags, would make a fab blouse or dress if you're brave enough! 

It's nice to lose yourself in pretty fabrics and simple shapes sometimes! Happy crafting. x

Monday, 30 March 2015

Spring Liberty Giveaway

It looks like spring has finally sprung, so to celebrate the longer evenings and warmer days I'm running a spring giveaway, woohoo!! And what could be more suited to spring sewing than Liberty fabric? Not much, quite frankly!  Susan from Sewbox is very kindly offering one metre of any of the Liberty fabrics she stocks to one lucky winner. Here are just a few of my favourites to whet your appetite….

Danjo - Tana Lawn
Bloomsbury Collection - Dance A: Liberty Lifestyle Cotton
Bloomsbury Collection - Leonard B: Liberty Lifestyle Cotton
Stile Collection- Cranston A: Liberty Lifestyle Cotton
Queue for the Zoo - Tana Lawn 
Jack and Charlie - Rossmore Cord
Sophie Jane - Lantana Cotton/Wool Blend

To enter, just leave a comment on this post telling me which Liberty fabric from Sewbox you'd choose if you're the winner. The full range can be found here. The giveaway is open worldwide and closes at midnight GMT on Monday 6th April. The winner will be chosen at random.  Please make sure you leave your email address if it's not linked to your Blogger profile so I can contact you if you're the winner.

Good luck everybody! x

Thursday, 26 March 2015

One Seam Skirt Explained

After last week's post on the 1950's one seam skirt pattern, I received several comments and emails from readers all intrigued to know how such a skirt is put together. So I've written a post about it. with photos of the pattern pieces and a few crazy reconstructions. Interested? Then read on! 

The pattern is this one - Simplicity 3983 from 1952 - which I bought immediately after seeing Kerry's first version a couple of years ago (she's made a couple more since then too!) The pattern has one main skirt piece which is cut on the fold. The other pattern pieces are a waistband and two-piece hip pockets.  The skirt has no side seams, so hip/bum shaping is given by the two darts on either side of the centre back seam.

For the purposes of this step-by-step, I've made up a teeny, tiny skirt to demonstrate how the pieces go together. I haven't scaled down the pieces perfectly, but it will give you a good idea of how the skirt is constructed. The elf-sized skirt is made up without a waistband (I couldn't be bothered to add one if you must know) but the original skirt does have one.

Main pattern pieces: skirt front/back, pocket and pocket yoke

Skirt piece opened out

First the back darts are sewn.

Darts from right side

The pockets are then stitched to the front curved edges, curves clipped and a snip made into the corner.

This is to allow the curves to turn under neatly to the inside of the skirt like this:

The pocket yoke is then sewn to the skirt and pocket.

On the original pattern, the pocket piece is longer and should be folded up and attached to the yoke like this:

Here's what the skirt now looks like from the front.

With a close up of the hip pocket.

The pucker on the pocket edge is only there because the pattern pieces aren't perfectly drafted. And because I made the entire tiny skirt in about 15 minutes…

Now we get to sew that famous one seam! Please note that in the pattern there would also be a zip attached at the top of this seam after the notch. For this post, I've just sewn the seam all the way to the top.

There's the ONE seam, on the right hand side!

In the normal course of events, you'd now add a waistband but for the purposes of this demonstration, we're done!  Here's the skirt from the back. The proportions are a bit out, so the pockets shouldn't come quite so far round the back of the skirt.

And one from the front…

And one with a spool of thread included as a size reference, just to show you how twitchy the skirt is!

I do love this pattern, it's so well constructed and easy to sew. The pockets are a bit fiddly, but for me, they were the detail that drew me to the skirt in the first place, so they're well worth the effort. I hope that's explained things a bit clearer, and please do shout if you have any other questions.

Have a great day! x


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