Monday, 23 January 2017

A Quick and Easy Delia Top

After making my Heather dress I still had half a metre of the lovely navy Ponte jersey left over, which I wanted to put to good use. I decided to use it for the sleeves of a raglan sleeved top, teaming it with some classy checked Ponte jersey from Fabric Godmother. The checked fabric is reasonably heavy weight, making it a great choice for sweatshirts or knit dresses. The picture on the website makes it look cream coloured, but it's actually a light grey as you can see below. 


Raglan sleeved sweatshirt patterns are popular at this time of year and I've seen some gorgeous versions floating around. However, the two sweatshirt patterns I'm familiar with (the Grainline Linden and Capital Chic White Russian) tend to be a bit too loose fitting for my liking. The pattern I used was the Delia Top - this was newly released by Sew It With Love just before Christmas and is a semi fitted style. 




It's a good pattern for people like me who prefer their casual tops to have a closer fit - no grading in at the side seams! There's a choice of long or short sleeves, or if you're feeling especially girly there are options to add a bow or a peplum if you so desire (I don't, I'm not a fan of peplums!)



I was a tester for this pattern so I already knew the fit was good. I cut a 12 at the bust and a 10 at the waist and hips. It fits just how I like it: it still has a bit of ease but isn't too boxy. 


The only change I made was to the neck binding - this is supposed to be folded to the inside and top stitched, so isn't actually on display. I found this to be far too bulky and kept the neckband visible on the outside instead of folding under. I like the contrast against the lighter checked fabric, in fact I like it so much I haven't top stitched it as I don't want to spoil the effect! I just tacked the seam allowances together at the raglan sleeve top edges and that seems to keep it in place.


This is a well drafted pattern with clear instructions, so even if you've never sewn with knits before, you should be able to whip one up in an afternoon. It's also good for using up smaller pieces of beloved fabric too, as I've done here with the sleeves. Next up: a cocktail dress! x


The Delia Top was given to me free of charge for pattern testing, all views my own.



Sunday, 15 January 2017

A Heather dress for winter

This is the Heather dress from Sew Over It, the first completed pattern from my #2017makenine list and my new favourite thing! It's a chic little number, with interesting curved seams (great for colour blocking) and fab oversized pockets. What's not to like?!


Size-wise I cut a size 10, grading out to a size 12 at the bust on the front side panels. The only other changes I made to the pattern were to shorten the hem by two inches and shorten the sleeves by an inch, both of which are standard adjustments for me. The fit is exactly what I was hoping for - it's a reasonably tight fit with just enough ease to make it comfortable to wear. The pockets are really cosy too.


There are no instructions to stabilise the shoulder seams, but I stabilised mine with twill tape to cope with the weight of the dress. All construction steps are illustrated with photos, making this a nice, straight forward sew. The only area where I puzzled for a minute was the pockets. Just remember that you're attaching the pocket bags to the front side seams, not the side seams as you normally would. Once I'd got my head round that, the dress came together very quickly - I think I sewed the whole thing in one afternoon.

Fabric recommendations are for medium weight knits with a low stretch percentage and I used a navy ponte Roma, that Alice at Clothspot very kindly sent me as a gift. They have a few other ponte knits in stock, but this particular shade of navy really called out to me. The weight and drape is perfect for the pattern - it's stable enough to cope with all the curved edges, but doesn't stretch out of shape. I loved working with it, and have already made a second garment from the remnants (coming soon!)


I've sewn with quite a few knit dress patterns over the years and this is by far my favourite. It's soooo comfortable for lounging on the sofa and can easily be dressed up for a night out. I want to wear it every day! I already have plans for a striped version with short sleeves for summer, and at least one more winter version.  What's your favourite knit dress pattern? x

Friday, 6 January 2017

Exercise Update (in which I eat my words)

Two years ago I wrote this post declaring that I would never sew my own exercise gear. I also talked about the (virtually non-existent) role exercise played in my life. Well, one of those things is still true, the other is slowly changing. After trying unsuccessfully to get into running by myself over the years, I finally took the plunge and joined a local running group in October. I took their beginner's programme and by the end of eight weeks, I could run 5k continuously. Around the time I started, Kerry also blogged about running and very kindly sent me a few encouraging emails after I left a comment. Thank you Kerry, it was a massive boost!

This photo was taken in October - they're now much dirtier!
The support and encouragement of the running group (the Ealing Eagles) has been key, I just couldn't do it by myself. I'm now much better at pacing myself (I used to set off too fast and end up half dead after about ten minutes) and it's made a big difference. The update is that I now try to do a 5k run three times a week. This usually includes my local Parkrun which has been brilliant, both for meeting like minded people and making you ran that little bit faster. And there's more... next week I'm starting an Improvers programme, as part of a training plan to build up to a 10k run! Eeekkk! 

So I now need to eat my words, as I made a couple of declarations in that original post that no longer hold true.

1. 'I'm rubbish at it...I'll never be able to run further than 5k.'
Well hopefully by May I'll be running my first 10k race (she says, laughing nervously!) I'm hoping that by writing about it on my blog, it will somehow make it more of an official target!

2. 'I hate running. HATE. IT.'
That's no longer true either. I don't exactly love it, but I do really like it. I often find it quite tough to get going, but after a while I feel like Mo Farah, especially at the Parkrun where volunteers cheer you over the finish line!

I've noticed lots of benefits too: my legs have definitely changed shape, as has my waist (hoorah!) and it feels good to be doing some regular exercise. I've also personally found running to be a great stress reliever. Living with an autistic son who is currently transforming into a teenager brings a whole new set of challenges, which have been difficult to cope with at times. Running has really helped me calm down and not get so stressed about everything. Plus I find a good blast of bracing fresh air always works wonders!

I know this post isn't really anything to do with sewing, so apologies to those of you who come here for the sewing chat. I do have one small sewing related point to make though - I still have no intention of making my own exercise gear! 

If you're a runner (and I know lots of sewers are) please let me know in the comments. It would be nice to know there are more of us out there, planning sewing projects in our heads as we pound the streets (or maybe that's just me?!) Have a good weekend! x



Wednesday, 4 January 2017

#2017makenine

The word on the street at the moment seems to be #2017makenine, an Instagram initiative to make nine items during the course of the year. I can never resist jumping on a bandwagon so immediately started making lists of fabric and patterns. In my typically contrary way, I could only come up with six patterns that I really want to make in 2017 though! I don't want to include patterns just for the sake of it, so my version will have to be #2017makesix instead. My sewing strategy for the past couple of years has been to sew fewer items and focus more on wearability and fit. This seems to be working, so I'm sticking with it! I have lots of sewing plans spinning round in my head at the moment and am fully intending to sew more than six items in 2017, these are simply the six I've set my heart on.

1. Heather Dress - Sew Over It 
I've had my eye on this dress since it was first announced as a class at Sew Over It, so when it was released as a PDF pattern last year I snapped it up immediately. 


I really like the interesting side panels and pockets and I think it will be a big success in my winter wardrobe. A length of navy Ponte Roma is currently winging its way to me from Clothspot and once it arrives I'll be wasting no time sewing this up. If I can get the fit right I'd like to try a short sleeved version in a lighter knit for summer too.

2. Sangria Dress - Capital Chic
Remember the lace bonded scuba I bought from The Man Outside Sainsbury's last year? Well I think I may have found the perfect pattern to do it justice! 


The Sangia dress is a simple, elegant sheath especially designed for scuba fabric, yay! And to further inspire me, Nina has already made a beautiful bonded lace version here, which looks amazing.

3. Easy Short Sleeved Kimono Sleeved Dress - Pattern Runway on Craftsy
My simple, kimono sleeved New Look tops were a big success in 2016, so I was on the hunt for a dress version. Yes, I could probably have drafted one myself, but this pattern that I found on Craftsy seems to be absolutely perfect, so I'm saving myself the trouble! 


For my first version I'm going to use this fab, boat print rayon from Fabric Rehab (sadly they closed for business last year).


If that turns out well then I'm already dreaming of a second version in red luxury crepe.

4. Wrap Dress - New Look 6123
This pattern first came to my attention after seeing Rosa's dreamy vision of a dress here. Her dress was a mash up of two different New Look patterns, but it was the wrap style of the bodice that really caught my eye. 


Annoyingly the pattern is now out of print and I promptly fell down a rabbit hole online trying to track down a copy. Eventually I found one on eBay and am sooo excited to use it, as the pattern includes lots of different bodice and skirt variations. I find New Look patterns are a great fit on me more or less straight out of the envelope, so I have high hopes! For fabric I'll be using this firework print Liberty Tana Lawn, which was a Christmas present from my lovely husband.



5. Melilot Shirt - Deer and Doe
I love a summer shirt and this pattern has some nice details such as dropped shoulders and a rounded collar. 


I'll be using a cute sailor print viscose twill that I picked up at a Fabric Godmother open day last year (now sold out).


As an aside, I saw a gorgeous version of this shirt worn by a lady at the Handmade Fair in September. It was made from Atelier Brunette fabric, worn with a denim Arielle Skirt and she looked FAB! I chatted to her but I'm afraid I didn't get her name, so if you recognise yourself from this description, please let me know in the comments as your shirt really inspired me!

6. Maritime Shorts - Grainline Studio
I made a pair of these shorts last year and they were a roaring success on holiday so it makes sense to sew another pair. 


The stretch cotton sateen from Fabric Godmother was a good match for the pattern so I'll be using the same fabric again, probably in red. Hopefully this time round it will be a more straight forward sew, especially if I remember to use the most up to date instructions!

No doubt there'll be more than a few in-betweeny patterns, but these are the six I'm most looking forward to sewing. Have you put together a #2017makenine list? Which patterns are top of your list? x




Friday, 30 December 2016

The Handmade Christmas Gift


This year I made just the one handmade Xmas gift, which was totally unplanned. Jon had ripped out a picture of this posh looking Drake's tie from a copy of Time Out, complete with £125 price tag. 


Drake's silk tie
Now I know he would never spend this amount of money on a tie himself (he hardly ever wears them, except to pose for pictures on this blog...) and would be equally horrified if I shelled out big bucks too. I think he just liked the look of it. It got me thinking though - if I could find a nice looking Prince of Wales check, I could whip him one up myself and surprise him on Christmas Day...

So three days before Christmas I hot footed it down to Goldhawk Road to hunt for some fabric. As the schools had broken up I had Charlie with me and I knew it would have to be a lightning quick visit (he's not keen on lingering in shops, unless they happen to sell watering cans). In the end I had to bribe him with lunch at Pizza Express, but it was well worth it because I found the perfect fabric pretty quickly. It was from a new, posh looking fabric shop called Misan West, which isn't the cheapest, but has lots of good quality suitings and silks. I bought a metre of Prince of Wales check lightweight wool suiting for £15 and the girl kindly added a bit extra in case I mucked up. I didn't muck up as it happens, and as the fabric is quite wide, I still have enough for a pencil skirt if I so wish, hoorah! For the lining I used some scraps of Venezia lining fabric left over from this skirt.



Sadly my tie making partner in crime - Joe - was busy doing a panto run (he's a fabulous Ugly Sister in Cinderella if you're interested!) and I must admit, I missed his expertise. I also realised he had all the tie patterns we'd worked on together so I had to improvise! I remembered that there was a tie in the Sew Over It Vintage book, so set about drafting one from the book myself. I made a couple of small changes: lengthened it by 10cms to match an existing tie and narrowed the bit that goes around the back of the neck so that the shirt collar would cover it. The drafting took one afternoon and I spent another afternoon actually sewing it. There are only a few bits of machine sewing involved, the lengthy parts of the process were spent at the ironing board and hand stitching the central seam. 



Apart from the obvious difference i.e the posh Drake's tie is silk and the one I made is wool, I don't think they're that different to the untrained eye. I couldn't adjust the colour properly on my photos, so you'll have to take my word for it that my tie is much lighter in real life - the colours and checks really are very similar. And Jon's face on Christmas Day when he realised I'd made it was a picture!

Drake's Tie


Jane's Tie

Tuesday, 27 December 2016

Shiny Simplicity Party Top


Seasons greetings! If you follow me on Instagram, you'll have already seen me crowing about the Simplicity party top I reviewed for the current issue of Sew Now magazine - oooooh! 


Today I thought I'd share a few more details on the blog as I was limited to just 300 words, and I still have lots more to say about it. Plus it will give you something to read if you're lazing around, browsing your blog feed and eating chocolates (or is that just me?!)

Simplicity 8260 is an easy-to-sew top in two lengths, with a choice of sleeve options and an unusual cross over back. 

It's an elegant, drapey style with lots of ease, so I'd suggest choosing your size based on the finished measurements rather than your actual measurements. According to the body measurement chart I was a Medium (14-16), but I went ahead and cut a size Small (10-12) with no regrets. As I was reviewing this pattern in December, I thought the long sleeved version would be the most weather appropriate (although I really like the look of the sleeveless version), and I chose the longer length (view B). The pattern requires minimal fitting and I made no changes to the pattern. The only thing I would mention is that the full length sleeves are quite fitted. I personally prefer this, but you may want to add a bit of width if you don't like such a tight fit. 


There are only three pattern pieces (two if you go for the sleeveless option) and no darts or fastenings, so construction is very simple. One thing to note is that the back pieces are cut on the bias and liable to stretch out. I'd recommend stay stitching these edges before you begin to prevent this happening. The two back pieces are crossed over each other and basted together to form one piece and the sleeves are inserted flat, so the entire top comes together very quickly. The pattern recommends using bias tape to finish the back opening edges and hems, but I didn't actually finish mine this way. I bought some lovely metallic bias tape which I didn't use in the end, as it ended up distorting the edge of my lightweight fabric. I finished my edges with narrow double turned hems instead. 


The fabric was quite sheer and any hem rippling around the neckline would have been really apparent, so I drafted a simple facing instead, using the front and back pattern pieces. This gave a much cleaner finish to the neckline. I also used French seams throughout

The fabric itself was rather lovely and came from Clothspot, a new-to-me online fabric shop with a carefully curated selection of gorgeous dressmaking fabrics. It's called 'Mercury Falling' and is a fluid, metallic-silvered lightweight crepe. All of the fabric descriptions on the site are very detailed (which I appreciate) and they even include a video clip of this particular fabric in motion! It's supposed to be hand washed to avoid damage to the metallic in the fabric... I simply crossed my fingers and machine washed it on the hand wash cycle. A tiny bit of metallic in one corner came away, but otherwise there were no ill effects. It does require quite careful handling - don't forget to stay stitch bias edges as pointed out above, and be vigilant when pressing hems to avoid rippling. I needed a fabric with a fair amount of glitz, that also had some drape to it and I have to say, 'Mercury Falling' delivered on both counts. 


The fit of the top is a bit of a departure for me (the shoulders are dropped and there's no shaping to the front) and I quite like the elegant effect it gives. I also like the fact that it's plain and simple to the front, but turn to the back and there's a party going on. I have to admit, I haven't worn the top out yet, so can't testify to the wearability of the crossover back. The back pieces on the pattern envelope seem to cross further down than my version, which might be down to artful photography. I may end up tacking the back pieces together if I feel like I'm wearing a hospital gown - I'll report back on that!  

If you're looking for a quick, fun dressmaking project (even quicker if you omit the bias tape as I did) then this pattern is the perfect choice. As I said in the review, just add a pair of slim trousers, heels and a big necklace and you’re party ready! And if you've already had your quota of parties for the year, you can always make one to cheer yourself up during the bleak mid UK January! Have a good day. x


The pattern and fabric were given to me free of charge by Weaver Dee and Clothspot for review. All views my own.




SaveSaveSaveSave

Monday, 19 December 2016

2016: The Hits And The Misses

2016 has been a good dressmaking year for me. I haven't been as prolific as in previous years, but that's because I've been a bit more considered in what I choose to sew. I've concentrated more on fit and fabric choice and this has definitely resulted in fewer failures and unworn garments! 

So without further ado, let's look at my favourite makes and a couple that didn't quite work...

THE HITS 

New Look 6217
The pattern that has without doubt, been the biggest hit of my sewing year has been New Look 6217. It may be a plain, unprepossessing little pattern, but it always seems to magically come up with the goods for me. The top and skirt both fit me straight from the envelope and are very easy to sew. My favourite of the five tops I've sewn is still the first one, made with black satin-backed crepe. It goes with everything and always looks classy. There's a round-up of all my other versions on my OWOP post here.


My NL6217 polka dot denim skirt should also get a mention as it was such a wardrobe staple over the summer. The fabric has a great stretch to it, so it's both comfortable to wear and a flattering fit.


Big Vintage Sewalong Dress
This Vogue reproduction pattern (V8875) has only been worn once as it's very dressy, but I still want to include it as I received so many compliments when I wore it! It's made from a gorgeous luxury crepe, so it hangs beautifully and has a very polished look. I also worked really hard to perfect the fit and feel really fabulous in it!


Vintage Shoulder Tie Top
Made using a Woman's Own vintage pattern, this has been a surprise hit as it's more of a boxier fit than I'm used to. The cute shoulder ties are a lovely vintage touch and I found myself reaching for it again and again over the summer. The lush Liberty fabric doesn't hurt either!


Ginghamalong Top
This was made to replace a much loved, very similar top and is a big improvement on the original. It's made using the Sewaholic Granville pattern, which is a great fit on me, and the 100% cotton gingham is a lovely quality. In fact I'm wearing it as I type this (underneath a jumper)! 



THE MISSES

There are only two, neither of which has been an outright disaster. 

Karen Drape Dress
Despite me falling for the draped style of this Maria Denmark pattern, it's still a bit too grown up and slinky for me, hence it's only been worn once. I do really like the side pleat detail though, so may well just shorten it into a top. Teamed with a plain skirt or jeans, I'm sure it would get worn a lot more frequently. This can be a nice easy job for the New Year!


Clara Bow Blouse
I've worn this pattern a couple of times but the fit has never been quite right. It's a nice pattern (original pattern review is here) but needs a bit of tweaking to get it to fit me properly: I'd need to do an FBA (Full Bust Adjustment) and lengthen it considerably. 


Only two minor fails then, which I consider pretty good going for a whole year of sewing!

What have been your biggest hits (and misses) of 2016? And which patterns have turned out to be unexpected gems?!

In other news, I'm working away on my red coat and may get it finished before Christmas. If I don't, it will make a good project to welcome in the New Year! Happy Monday! x





LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...