tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45121157978944390802024-03-13T10:03:35.685+00:00Handmade JaneA sewing blogJanehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.comBlogger515125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-54102239793554407442018-07-20T10:29:00.000+01:002018-07-20T10:29:33.584+01:00Thumbs down for scuba stripes<div style="text-align: justify;">
This dress was never meant to be. I know exactly what I like garment-wise, and a dress made from striped scuba fabric with a pleated skirt has <i>never </i>been on my sewing wish list. Yet here it is. All because I saw a dress on Instagram, became a tiny bit obsessed with it and couldn't rest until I'd made one for myself. The making of it was relatively easy and straight forward. Whether or not I actually <i>like</i> the finished dress is another matter...<br />
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The original inspiration dress in question was this lovely <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BZbF1ajAkYg/?taken-by=cazzie_young">Emery dress by Caz</a></b>.<br />
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Hers was made from a striped ponte from <b><a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric">Minerva</a></b> that was no longer in stock. What <i>was</i> in stock (but not at the moment) was a similar looking striped scuba knit on sale at £7.99 a metre, so I bagged two metres to experiment with. <br />
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One of the things I liked about Caz's dress was the way the bodice and skirt stripes ran in different directions. The stripes on my scuba aren't as uniform as the stripes on Caz's ponte - there are several different sections of broad, medium and narrow stripes - so I knew there'd be a bit of head scratching to get them in the exact position I wanted. I ended up with the medium stripes across the main section of the bodice and narrower stripes at the top section. Much to my delight, I then jammily managed to continue the narrow striped section down the side of the sleeves (more or less). The skirt is a mixture of everything, but it can get away with it because of the vertical stripes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Matching arm stripes (sort of!)</span></td></tr>
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Pattern-wise I used the bodice from the <b><a href="https://kitschy-coo.co.uk/products/the-lady-skater-sewing-pattern-for-teens-and-women-pdf">Lady Skater </a></b>dress as it's drafted for knits and fits me well, and the pleated skirt from the <b><a href="https://gatherkits.com/shop/product/the-mortmain">Mortmain</a></b> dress. The only change I made was to shorten the bodice slightly - the original length ended up too far down from my natural waist and was causing a bit of rippling. It would probably have gone unnoticed in a solid coloured fabric, but the giant stripes really emphasised it. The whole dress was sewn on my overlocker, apart from the sleeve hems which I finished with a straight stretch stitch. The neckline is finished with a plain white neckband. The skirt hem has been left unfinished as I just preferred the look of it.<br />
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One giant gamble I took when making this dress was to cut it out without allowing for a zip. The Lady Skater pattern doesn't have a zip anyway as it's designed for knits and I simply removed the zip seam allowance from the skirt pieces Because the scuba has a good amount of stretch to it, I can get the dress on without one, so the gamble paid off, yay!<br />
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There are lots and lots of positives about this dress, along with one big, giant negative - I don't think it's very 'me'. Maybe it's a stripe too far (can there be such a thing?!) and I don't really wear this shape of dress any more. Also, despite being easy to sew with and magically stretchy, I've come to the conclusion (a bit late in the day, admittedly) that I don't particularly like scuba as a fabric. The texture always feels a bit cheap and nylon-y to me and I couldn't wait to get the dress off after taking these photos!<br />
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I debated whether to even post this dress on my blog, but I think it's always good to see dressmaking fails as well as wins. I don't regret making it and it was a lovely, stress-free dress to sew. Sometimes it's good to sew something just to get it out of your system! x<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-70910075829000619572018-07-06T10:21:00.001+01:002018-07-06T20:03:49.952+01:00Lemon print skirt<div style="text-align: justify;">
I've had this gorgeous Dolce and Gabbana-style cotton (from <b><a href="https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/PigeonWishesShops">Pigeon Wishes</a></b> but no longer in stock) squirrelled away for over a year and have really taken my time deciding what to use it for. I already have a <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2014/07/lemon-dress-with-nod-to-kate-spade.html">lemon print dress</a></b>, which I wear quite a lot and is wildly popular with members of the public (I'm complimented on it virtually every time I wear it, which is lovely!) Because of this I figured separates would get a bit more wear than another dress, so decided to make a statement skirt. </div>
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The pattern is the skirt section of the <b><a href="http://gatherkits.com/shop/product/the-mortmain">Mortmain dress</a></b> by Gather, which is the same pattern I used for my first lemon dress. I think a large, bold print like this works particularly well with box pleats. Handily for me, Gather Kits have a blog post on <b><a href="http://gatherkits.com/blog/how-to-make-the-mortmain-party-skirt">how to make a Mortmain skirt</a></b> from the dress pattern pieces, which is totally fool proof. The only thing I did differently was to swap the exposed zip for an invisible one. As you can probably see from the photos, I deliberately made the waistband more of a relaxed fit. I decided I'd rather forego the very neat, nipped in look of a perfectly fitted waistband for the comfort factor and ability to eat my dinner without feeling like I'm about to explode.</div>
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The skirt is fully lined with Venezia lining fabric which was a perfect colour match to the navy background. It was given to me as a gift from <b><a href="http://jo-sews-etc.blogspot.com/">Jo Sews</a></b> ages ago and is the loveliest lining fabric I've ever sewn with. I'm truly lamenting the fact that it doesn't seem to be available in the UK* (Jo lives in Brussels). Lining the skirt gives it a really nice weight and a bit of structure which I think is good with a pleated skirt. *EDIT: <i>Hoorah, I've now discovered that Venezia lining IS available in the UK from <b><a href="https://www.stonefabrics.co.uk/product-category/lining/lining-venezia/">here</a></b> (Stone Fabrics) in tons of colours. Thank you so much to the readers who pointed this out.</i><br />
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As the print on this skirt is full on lemony, I made a new plain top specifically to wear with it. <b><a href="https://weaverdee.com/products/nl6217?variant=985523531">New Look 6217</a></b> is the pattern that keeps on giving and yet again it didn't fail me. I think this is now my sixth version of this top - I've given up blogging about them as I don't want to bore you all to death! You only need half a metre of 150cm wide fabric to make it and I used <b><a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/luxury-crepe-navy/">luxury crepe</a></b> from Sew Over It which has a lovely drape. </div>
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I really like the whole outfit, which works just as easily for daytime as it does for evening. I was actually wearing flip flops and heels to demonstrate this in the photos below, but my son didn't think to include my feet when he was taking them!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Daytime</span><span style="text-align: justify;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Evening</span></td></tr>
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The skirt (and top) gets its first outing tomorrow at a party...I'll report back! x<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-29938961870961656822018-05-15T10:46:00.000+01:002018-05-15T10:46:35.607+01:00I sewed something!<div style="text-align: justify;">
After a loooong time away from the sewing machine I've finally sewn something! Well, three things to be precise - three Sew Over It <b><a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/capsule-wardrobe-city-break-ebook/">Molly tops</a></b>. Nothing complicated, nothing fancy, just simple everyday tops that will be worn a lot (I'm wearing the pink one as I type this...)</div>
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There are several reasons why I haven't been feeling it on the sewing front recently, but the main one is that I'd more or less reached saturation point with my handmade wardrobe. To put it simply, I had more than enough clothes and didn't need to sew more. Unworn garments were piling up and it felt wasteful and wrong. So I stopped sewing. And if I'm perfectly honest, I've enjoyed the break and the lack of pressure to sew things. </div>
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When spring finally arrived in the UK I had a long, hard look at my wardrobe and was pretty ruthless with the clothes that no longer fit me, both in terms of style and size. A combination of middle age, menopause and eating too many pies (and what a lovely combination that is!) meant that quite a lot of the super fitted styles I used to love so much had to be slung out. That's when I noticed a gap for a few stylish T shirts and tops, preferably made from knit fabrics for the comfort factor.</div>
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The light blue Molly top was actually sewn a few weeks before the other two, using Girl Charlee <b><a href="http://www.girlcharlee.co.uk/light-denim-heather-solid-cotton-spandex-knit-fabric-p-17359.html?cPath=114">denim coloured cotton spandex</a></b> from my stash. I made a straight size 10 as per my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/03/sew-over-it-molly-top.html">previous version</a></b>. </div>
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Molly is a really simple but stylish pattern and in a few short weeks this top has been worn a LOT. The fabric was lovely to sew with too, so I decided to sew a couple more. I bought a <b><a href="http://www.girlcharlee.co.uk/dark-denim-heather-solid-cotton-spandex-knit-fabric-p-17232.html?cPath=114">darker denim version</a></b> of the same fabric and, very unusually for me, a <a href="http://www.girlcharlee.co.uk/dark-rose-solid-cotton-spandex-knit-fabric-p-17508.html?cPath=114" style="font-weight: bold;">dark rose pink</a>, both from Girl Charlee. </div>
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It took just a morning to make the two tops on my overlocker (hems and neckbands were top stitched with a double needle) and they turned out exactly as I'd hoped. The dark denim one is basically a carbon copy of the light denim one and will be worn until it falls apart. The fabric is light enough to wear on spring days or can be layered up when it's really cold. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTP_DZ_zQ43X0OWVCicL9YkNNclNX7k0HZjd0W2MpsL4pjEk0noJDFSZoE_NPlrwOe7V3LGc80i4nfap9oHG8ddtqYQeNEsz2oo-nG85x_LNJc7FVlFAI98aJcoVW-_dgoD8nUF-HyXXN/s1600/DSC_0345.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1403" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhTP_DZ_zQ43X0OWVCicL9YkNNclNX7k0HZjd0W2MpsL4pjEk0noJDFSZoE_NPlrwOe7V3LGc80i4nfap9oHG8ddtqYQeNEsz2oo-nG85x_LNJc7FVlFAI98aJcoVW-_dgoD8nUF-HyXXN/s400/DSC_0345.jpg" width="350" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">I think this one is my favourite.</span></td></tr>
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I left off the sleeve cuffs for the pink version as I thought the colour was more suited to summer. I also levelled off the hem to give it a neater shape. </div>
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I must admit it was good to get back behind the sewing machine again. If you've had a bit of a break from sewing, here are my top tips for getting back into it:</div>
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1. Choose a pattern you've used before and you know fits well. You can then just cut out and sew, knowing that the finished garment will fit.</div>
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2. Don't over complicate things with a difficult design. The Molly top has just three pattern pieces (four if you add the sleeve cuffs) and is ridiculously quick to sew.</div>
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3. Avoid patterned fabric for the same reason. Who can be arsed to pattern match when you're after a quick fix?!</div>
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4. Knit fabrics are your friend, they're quick to sew up and easy to fit.</div>
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5. Cut out more than one garment at the cutting stage. If you only have a few seams to sew, an extra garment doesn't takes much longer to sew up, especially if you use my canny <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2014/03/overlocker-thread-tip.html">overlocker thread tip</a></b>. </div>
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The new additions to my wardrobe are already on frequent rotation, which I'm delighted about. Rumour has it there's a Tilly and the Buttons Bibi skirt in the pipeline too, so I'm clearly on a sewing roll! Small steps... x</div>
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<span id="goog_1972537709"></span><span id="goog_1972537710"></span><br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-81189471340790593622018-04-04T08:00:00.000+01:002018-04-04T08:00:05.782+01:00A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics - blog tour<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Today it's my stop on the <b><a href="https://www.miycollection.com/collections/books/products/a-beginners-guide-to-sewing-with-knitted-fabrics-by-wendy-ward-signed-copy">Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics</a></b> blog tour. This is <b><a href="https://wendyward.wordpress.com/">Wendy Ward's</a></b> latest book and the perfect starting point if you're wanting to branch out and start sewing with knits. The book includes full sized paper patterns for six core garments (T-shirt, Wide Leg Trousers, Tank, Lounge Pants, Cardigan and Skirt) with a variety of hacks to give a choice of twenty different variations. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxYedz7RBGXtXeYFqWab_hm6jwpUvZ_czzU3KrEojkikkgyrHinTfxHOWRfor2tDxXMRj2TG9fckNZ2qrOVJeRKwjRQyNWNDdTp8KC2L4sKqw5AFp5DAwg05N_av9u7YWRB4ZIOJZMaoYs/s1600/knits-cover-web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="671" data-original-width="500" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxYedz7RBGXtXeYFqWab_hm6jwpUvZ_czzU3KrEojkikkgyrHinTfxHOWRfor2tDxXMRj2TG9fckNZ2qrOVJeRKwjRQyNWNDdTp8KC2L4sKqw5AFp5DAwg05N_av9u7YWRB4ZIOJZMaoYs/s640/knits-cover-web.jpg" width="473" /></a></div>
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The book is laid out in a similar way to Wendy's first book <b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/cka/Beginners-Guide-Making-Skirts-different-skirts-shapes/1782493700/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478859436&sr=8-1&keywords=wendy+ward">A Beginner's Guide to Making Skirts</a></b> (reviewed <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2016/11/a-beginners-guide-to-making-skirts-blog.html">here</a></b>). For each project there are step-by-step instructions with clear diagrams, with methods for tackling specific techniques (adding a neckband, hemming, using elastic etc) included in a comprehensive 'techniques' section. These techniques are noted at the start of each project and I'd recommend reading up on them before you start. In fact I'd strongly recommend reading the "How to Use This Book' section on page 9 before you do anything, as it lays out everything you need to know to get the most out of the book. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKY54-RwH0zw-SPM0OcDqPvGwP4E10-hQ1bC-7pewcHt9cL4YPUG3N0HN2DRFaeU4s5F6Kq8TKdoaq7R4nmg6FxXrX8wwMrD0wkR3OLAMT5FIaW_ujqTnxE3MCWTgT_Ceo8p8txFvJqRw/s1600/DSC_0264.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1115" data-original-width="1600" height="444" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWKY54-RwH0zw-SPM0OcDqPvGwP4E10-hQ1bC-7pewcHt9cL4YPUG3N0HN2DRFaeU4s5F6Kq8TKdoaq7R4nmg6FxXrX8wwMrD0wkR3OLAMT5FIaW_ujqTnxE3MCWTgT_Ceo8p8txFvJqRw/s640/DSC_0264.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The patterns are printed on both sides of each sheet and overlap, so you will need to trace them. Also, some larger pieces (such as trouser legs) may be printed in two halves, so make sure you know where the two halves are! A helpful guide showing which projects and pattern pieces are printed on each sheet can be found on page 23. One thing I found slightly annoying is that there are no sizes i.e. size <i>numbers</i> printed on the patterns, just the different pattern <i>markings</i> for each size. If you're confused about which markings relate to your size (as I was) there's a key on the inside back page of the book.<br />
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Sizes range from US size 4 (UK 8) to US 22 (UK 26) and the garments are sized depending on which area of the body the garment will fit most closely. The two trouser patterns are sized on hip measurements, the cardigan, T-shirt and tank are sized on bust measurements and the skirt is based on waist measurement. Just make sure you're working from the correct area of the body before you start.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKW8YTs_MU9E-eQNVyJzfToc_AQ0VWuBJ77CeP5IW1O7V9PSBr2kH1uTdTXDei4mfAHzHSwTbBPjXBvcWEPXEHpNZehyphenhyphenZKu9-Gqyw0mSm1B2twkBRg2ZobzFS94_vvomh34gp2wpFdrCr/s1600/DSC_0261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1060" data-original-width="1600" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpKW8YTs_MU9E-eQNVyJzfToc_AQ0VWuBJ77CeP5IW1O7V9PSBr2kH1uTdTXDei4mfAHzHSwTbBPjXBvcWEPXEHpNZehyphenhyphenZKu9-Gqyw0mSm1B2twkBRg2ZobzFS94_vvomh34gp2wpFdrCr/s640/DSC_0261.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I have to be honest and say that a couple of the patterns were not really my style, most notably the Longshaw Skirt. The T-shirt and tank were similar to designs I've made lots of times before and the wide legged trousers didn't appeal. It was therefore a toss up between the chic and versatile Kinder Cardigan or the Monsal Lounge Pants. Now Lounge Pants have never really been on my sewing radar, but the weather was cold and miserable at the time of making, and all I wanted to do was lie on the sofa, so lounge pants it was.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVBSVFRR7_LqWMDlbFUlSvCG7szds81bZg2cz90PrPodXGfXovse_TTN-Va_mz1IA1znGkJGDa4UHljTsgzmx8aY0QDa40gM0KOh7xXVGHx_0m1VJsDJ2brvCMifS-kctdoc6q3zVoJoo/s1600/DSC_0269.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="898" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifVBSVFRR7_LqWMDlbFUlSvCG7szds81bZg2cz90PrPodXGfXovse_TTN-Va_mz1IA1znGkJGDa4UHljTsgzmx8aY0QDa40gM0KOh7xXVGHx_0m1VJsDJ2brvCMifS-kctdoc6q3zVoJoo/s640/DSC_0269.jpg" width="354" /></a></div>
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There are three pattern options: full length, with or without cuff, and shorts length. I went for the cuffed version, adding the optional cut away pockets with a contrast pocket band. One very helpful thing that Wendy does in the book is list the fabrics that each of her samples are made from. Based on this I chose a <b><a href="https://www.minervacrafts.com/shop/fabric/dress-fabrics/roma-m-ponte-roma-heavy-stretch-jersey-dress-fabric">navy ponte</a></b> for the main trousers with a contrasting grey marl in the same fabric for the cuffs, waistband and pocket bands. The quality of the ponte was lovely - a nice medium/heavy weight with a good amount of stretch. With hindsight, I should perhaps have chosen a lighter weight fabric for the pocket bands as the double layers of ponte ending up very bulky to sew through. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGXuMDPcQQZ8hXGX4Lq0YzWgCpOsboGoAPitvXOdNzEwNXAewTArq4cVfh37ItPk76hZ6Ha__92gPce9ayotOO76r62ftHxWxSlGpFAB4SlJODGNNLVbi3t2CVHh8XaoAhrQLFzj8a9fD/s1600/DSC_0248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1343" data-original-width="1600" height="536" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVGXuMDPcQQZ8hXGX4Lq0YzWgCpOsboGoAPitvXOdNzEwNXAewTArq4cVfh37ItPk76hZ6Ha__92gPce9ayotOO76r62ftHxWxSlGpFAB4SlJODGNNLVbi3t2CVHh8XaoAhrQLFzj8a9fD/s640/DSC_0248.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The instructions were a breeze and actually employed a different method than I've previously used for trouser making. Usually I would make up both legs separately, then put one leg inside the other and sew the front and back crotch seams in one go. The method in this book is to sew the crotch seams first - which give you an entire front section and an entire back section - then sew the inside leg seams. Once the pockets are added you simply sew up the side seams and you have a pair of trousers! This seemed like a much simpler method to me and one I'll definitely use again.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4vzaHjaIoHtNlmmKhzSVnMnJSIch97IbWkv7OTQ67ooWhxZshhZNotcyQ-m7ZW-orDfzPaMhwdnqsm6-t5VQ1TAFFQIRbJA2NlQy6EnO1hWIDsRsmTr_pGGZIFsq46GrD36r7lJgec8ia/s1600/DSC_0280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1107" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4vzaHjaIoHtNlmmKhzSVnMnJSIch97IbWkv7OTQ67ooWhxZshhZNotcyQ-m7ZW-orDfzPaMhwdnqsm6-t5VQ1TAFFQIRbJA2NlQy6EnO1hWIDsRsmTr_pGGZIFsq46GrD36r7lJgec8ia/s640/DSC_0280.jpg" width="442" /></a></td></tr>
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The fit is supposed to be loose (not baggy) with a tapering leg shape. I like the tapering leg shape but I could probably have done with shortening them a bit as they noticeable crumple below the knee. The calf section is also a bit tight, but that may be down to my newly discovered runners calves (ahem). As predicted, they're supremely comfortable and perfect for lounging stylishly around the house. When the 'Beast from the East' hit the UK recently they were an absolute godsend - cosy, comfortable and a definite step up from pyjamas!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpeoM14htSO3bG5OzHXwGhjwuXfyVwWsyoR7ljJbHwqZ1aQdfUyszpe8Eiz45L2qwjevhDe8n0_xshzTfXOORTsuUP3KZYuYKwXz6BdlPPy2pWa226y3JTVt8sFuYv448p_pBbcuB5FxsW/s1600/DSC_0265.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="882" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpeoM14htSO3bG5OzHXwGhjwuXfyVwWsyoR7ljJbHwqZ1aQdfUyszpe8Eiz45L2qwjevhDe8n0_xshzTfXOORTsuUP3KZYuYKwXz6BdlPPy2pWa226y3JTVt8sFuYv448p_pBbcuB5FxsW/s640/DSC_0265.jpg" width="352" /></a></div>
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There's a lot of work that's gone into the writing and production of this book and this is evident throughout. It's an excellent first guide for beginners and a very good source of patterns and advice for those who are already familiar with sewing with knits. Like the look of it? Well you're in luck, as <b><a href="http://makeetc.com/">MAKEetc.com</a></b> are offering readers of my blog a 25% discount off the purchase price. Simply purchase through their website and enter the code <b>BLOG25</b> at the checkout. The discount is valid until 21st April 2018.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIWcBOxGnf_rt8qmvq_gNUySthCaLxs-pX3TUtAqQlNl22ohGsTbXWO8Kmxo2J-82R-9f4ZLjN4_zCpSVXkmBSlTQObCBMBhNiq4zynX-WvUg89CtPo5ENGUtJB_z1j2eqR6JWnJxUvPF/s1600/Sewing+with+knits+blog+tour+poster+Social+Media.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1103" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFIWcBOxGnf_rt8qmvq_gNUySthCaLxs-pX3TUtAqQlNl22ohGsTbXWO8Kmxo2J-82R-9f4ZLjN4_zCpSVXkmBSlTQObCBMBhNiq4zynX-WvUg89CtPo5ENGUtJB_z1j2eqR6JWnJxUvPF/s640/Sewing+with+knits+blog+tour+poster+Social+Media.jpg" width="440" /></a></div>
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<i><b>A Beginner's Guide to Sewing with Knitted Fabrics</b> was given to me for review by CICO Books and the fabric for my project was kindly supplied by Minerva Crafts. All views my own. </i></div>
Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-47766574485358771592018-02-08T09:06:00.001+00:002018-02-08T09:06:53.527+00:00Intro to Sewing Coats Online class review<div style="text-align: justify;">
The <b><a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/intro-to-sewing-coats-online-class/">Intro to Sewing Coats</a></b> is an online class from Sew Over It offering a step-by-step guide to sewing a beautiful tailored Chloe Coat. Details of my finished Chloe Coat can be found <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/12/chloe-coat.html">here</a></b> - this additional post will go into a bit more detail about what to expect from the online class.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7oF5D5yGDcKZv2NZHb67XZnxXK9EJ77E4jh9nVdJ9PPBG_4CFfHjjk2137tXR0uF14nBr0b8SS7Mh9OdUCMuWgF4gz4EjSMf87A2CMy73l69mY0Msqm7ih4wY0hZDBja6Jynuv1WZyk9c/s1600/6-460-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="460" data-original-width="460" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7oF5D5yGDcKZv2NZHb67XZnxXK9EJ77E4jh9nVdJ9PPBG_4CFfHjjk2137tXR0uF14nBr0b8SS7Mh9OdUCMuWgF4gz4EjSMf87A2CMy73l69mY0Msqm7ih4wY0hZDBja6Jynuv1WZyk9c/s1600/6-460-1.jpg" /></a></div>
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I've used one of the Sew Over It online classes before (<b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2016/06/the-ultimate-guide-to-sewing-and.html">The Ultimate Guide to Sewing and Fitting Trousers</a></b>) and really got a lot out of it. This time round I learnt everything there is to know about coat making, including some great new tips and techniques. The course is aimed at a broad range of sewers - coat-sewing newbies who want to take their skill level up a notch, along with intermediate sewers who want to improve their tailoring techniques. You will need to be familiar with garment construction and have inserted sleeves and zips before embarking on the course. The class includes a PDF pattern of the Chloe coat (both tiled and copyshop versions), video tutorials by Lisa Comfort explaining each step of the construction process, written instructions to accompany the videos and PDF guides on fitting and alterations. A full list of the techniques you'll learn in the class can be found <b><a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/intro-to-sewing-coats-online-class/">here</a></b>.<br />
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My main piece of advice is to watch all the videos right the way through before you even think about cutting anything out. It's always good to get a general idea of what you'll be doing and you can flag up any bits that don't make sense. Most of the videos are very short, only a minute or so, which makes it easier to let the information sink in. Believe me, the more times you watch something the more it makes sense! The course also comes with a set of written instructions (without illustrations). I'd recommend using the videos and the written instructions in conjunction with one another. A few tiny instructions that are <i>not</i> mentioned in the videos e.g. slip stitching the turning hole in the pockets, <i>are </i>mentioned in the written instructions. And vice versa - top stitching the front edges of the coat right at the end isn't mentioned in the written instructions. Use them together and they'll cover everything.<br />
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There are separate pattern pieces for 'cloth' (main coat fabric), lining and interfacing which is a mixed blessing. On the plus side, you're working with properly measured pattern pieces and don't need to make a stab at drafting the lining yourself. This makes things far easier when it comes to the cutting out stage. On the minus side, it does result in a <i>gigantic</i> pattern to tape together - 84 pages in fact. All is not lost however, as there is a copy shop PDF version allowing you to get it printed on massive sheets and sent to you. I used <b><a href="https://printyourpattern.com/">Print Your Pattern</a></b> which charged £9 to print out the three large pattern sheets and it was delivered the next day. There are other pattern printing companies that are even cheaper. I know it's extra money to shell out, but in this case I think it's well worth it as it does save a lot<i> </i>of time.<br />
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The Chloe Coat is designed to be "<i>semi-loose fitting yet flattering...fitted to your shoulders, and shaped at the front with a long cut-away dart</i>." It's a simple, classic design and because of this there's very little fitting involved. As advised in the fitting video, it's essential to get the shoulder measurement correct, then work from there. Any pattern adjustments you do need to do such as lengthening/shortening are all outlined on PDFs which are clear and self explanatory. For reference, I cut a straight size 12 with two small adjustments to the pattern. I shortened the sleeve length by 6 cms and re-positioned the pockets about 2.5 cms to allow for my short arms. I'm 5'2" and I didn't shorten the coat hem, so if you're taller and/or prefer a longer coat you may need to lengthen the pattern. It's also worth noting that the side seams have a generous <b>2cm seam allowance</b> to allow you to fit as you go.<br />
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Once you have your pattern pieces ready to go I'd allow a full day to cut everything out. Cloth, plus lining, plus interfacing equals a lot of time spent cutting out, <i>plus</i> time spent ironing on the interfacing pieces. As tempting as it might be to press ahead with the sewing, I'd recommend starting the next day when your brain is fresher!<br />
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The Chloe Coat is collarless, which means there's less bulk to contend with when it comes to layers of collar and facings. That doesn't mean it's problem free though - I still ended up with bulky sections because of the weight of my fabric, even though I trimmed everything down as directed. My fabric was a medium weight wool which is on the list of recommended fabrics so I'm not sure why this was a problem. I actually ended up omitting the top stitching down the front edges of the coat because I couldn't fit the layers of coat front and facings under my sewing machine! If I had the choice, I would have top stitched to prevent the facing from rolling out, but I'm still happy with the end result.<br />
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One of the new-to-me tailoring techniques in the class is sewing <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/ice-wool/"><b>ice wool</b> <b>wadding</b></a> to the sleeve head to give it shape. I've used pre-cut sleeve heads before with some success, but had never heard of ice wool. It's a strange fabric which looks like a cross between cotton wool and candy floss! You're instructed to hand sew it into place, probably because the texture is a bit fragile to put under a sewing machine.<br />
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I must admit, I had my suspicions about how effective it would be because of its weird texture, but it really does give a lovely, rounded shape to the sleeve head. It just seems to mould to the shape of the wearer's shoulder like magic!<br />
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The majority of the video steps were clear and well explained - I did exactly as Lisa directed and they seemed to work. I did however, have a little trouble with one or two steps, largely because I couldn't see exactly what was happening on the videos. One of these was Sewing the Sleeve Hems - it was difficult to see how she pinned the hems together because of the camera angle. The thing to remember with this step is that you're joining the two raw edges together. Just keep that in mind and you should be fine. The other section I had difficulty with was Finishing the Graded Edges of the Lining. It does get a bit easier to understand the more times you watch it, but I just couldn't get it to work. Eventually I did my own thing and it seems to look OK - it's only a tiny area of the coat at the end of the day.</div>
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My final piece of advice regarding construction is to follow the seam allowance instructions <i>to the letter </i>when inserting the zip. The seam allowance at the bottom of my zip meandered in slightly and it does make a difference when you zip the coat up. It still zips up (imagine the horror if it didn't after all that work?!) but it's a bit of a fiddle getting the short zip end into the zip pull. There, I've warned you!<br />
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The class really is comprehensive and covers everything you're likely to encounter on any coat-making journey. It definitely worked for me and I now have a beautiful, well fitting coat to show for it. x<br />
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<i><b>The Intro to Sewing Coats</b> online class was given to me free of charge for review. All views my own. </i></div>
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-39706164481542037242018-01-30T07:49:00.003+00:002018-01-30T07:49:55.108+00:00Holly Hobbie QuiltHello. Brace yourselves, there's an actual finished item on the blog today!<br />
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The patchwork top for this quilt was finished <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/06/liberty-quilt-question.html">back in June</a></b>, but as it's quite a whopper (224 squares), it's taken me this long to summon up the energy to quilt it. The majority of squares are Liberty remnants left over from previous makes, plus a few fat quarters picked up along the way from <b><a href="https://www.sewbox.co.uk/">Sewbox</a></b>. The light coloured 'neutral' squares are cut from another Liberty print (Cathy), which is also used as the backing fabric. </div>
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It's very busy and flowery but that's exactly what I love about Liberty prints. Plus the busyness of the fabric hides a multitude of quilting sins...</div>
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Because it's made almost entirely from Liberty lawn (I think there's one non-Liberty imposter in there) the feel of this quilt is different to others I've made. Liberty lawn has a slight sheen and silkiness that you don't get with regular quilting cotton, giving it a really luxurious feel.</div>
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The intended home for this quilt is on the guest bed in the loft. Everything is very plain and neutral up there and it adds a nice pop of colour.<br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">However... I was testing it out on the sofa last night and it actually looks great in the front room, so I'm a bit torn. </span>It has magical properties too, I was asleep within about ten minutes of wrapping it round me... Maybe I'll alternate between the two?</div>
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As for the name, I've called this my <i>Holly Hobbie</i> quilt as it reminds me of a doll I had in the seventies.<br />
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It was probably around the same time <i>Little House on the Prairie</i> was on TV, when spriggy florals and patchwork dresses were flavour of the month for little girls! Anybody else remember <i>Holly Hobbie</i>? Have a good Tuesday. x<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com39tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-34655660214866692752017-12-13T08:58:00.000+00:002017-12-13T08:58:54.478+00:00Silver party skirt<div style="text-align: justify;">
Need something snazzy for the party season but don't have time to sew a dress? Here's the next best option: a faux leather party skirt! This skirt is ridiculously easy to make, cheap as chips and, depending on how much drink you manage to knock back, allows you instant access to your inner rock chic...</div>
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I bought my silver <b><a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/faux-leather-silver/">faux leather </a></b>from Fabric Godmother (also available in black or gold) or Girl Charlee have a <b><a href="http://www.girlcharlee.co.uk/vegan-leather-c-220.html">good range in stock</a></b>, including red, navy and some lovely metallics. It's softer than I was expecting, with a decent drape and a reasonable amount of stretch. At £10 a metre it's good value too - after cutting out my skirt I still have quite a bit left over that I plan to make into purses and make-up bags for presents. </div>
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Any pin holes, needle marks or unpicking will be clearly visible on faux leather, so my main piece of advice is to choose a pattern <i>that fits well</i> to avoid any unpicking mishaps. I chose the <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2015/03/fashion-with-fabric-book-review.html">lace pencil skirt </a></b>from the GBSB Fashion with Fabric book, which I've made before and is a good fit on me. This time round I added a split to the back seam - a pencil skirt without a split is fine if you're posing for blog photos at home, not so good for getting in and out of a taxi! I also cut the skirt pieces two inches longer than my first version as I wasn't planning on hemming it. <br />
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Construction was seriously quick: two darts to the back, two side seams, invisible zip and back seam. Done! I rebelliously used pins (positioning them within the seam allowance to avoid puncture marks) and a leather needle. Faux leather doesn't fray, so my seams were pressed open and left unfinished. I used fabric glue on the back seam to secure it open and give the split a neat finish. I also used it on the top edge of the skirt, which is simply pressed under and glued into place. I secured the seam to the zip at the back opening with a few hand stitches for extra security. <br />
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I wore this skirt out for dinner with friends a few nights ago and felt fabulous in it. Being silver <i>and </i>faux leather, it's quite a statement in itself, so I made sure the rest of my outfit was a bit more toned down. A fitted black cardigan, high boots and a sparkly bracelet was all it took and I felt glammed up but not over dressed. Definitely £10 well spent! x<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com22tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-59944620954606853352017-12-04T11:49:00.000+00:002017-12-04T11:49:39.879+00:00Chloe Coat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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At last... something finished to show you! This is the <b><a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/intro-to-sewing-coats-online-class/">Chloe Coat</a></b> from Sew Over It: a classic collarless coat with lined, patch pockets, an open ended zip, tailored shoulders and long front darts. There's nothing super fancy about the design, it's just a simple, elegant style that's totally wearable. I'm very happy with mine! The pattern is part of the Intro to Sewing Coats<b> </b>online course and I'll be writing a separate post reviewing the course shortly. This will include lots more detail about construction and the techniques used in the course.</div>
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I was fortunate to be able to try on a sample of the coat at the Knitting & Stitching Show this year, which was great for checking the size. The sample was a size 10, and although it was a good fit across the back and shoulders etc, when I tried to zip it up it was far too tight across the bust - imagine a sausage squeezed into a skin! I also wanted a bit of additional room for winter layers under my coat so decided to cut a straight size 12 all over. </div>
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I made just two small adjustments to the pattern, I shortened the sleeve length by 6cms and re-positioned the pockets about 2.5cms higher to allow for my short arms. It's also worth pointing out that I <i>didn't </i>shorten the coat hem which is normally a standard adjustment for me. You'll note from the photos that the coat finishes well above the knee on me and I'm only 5'2", so if you're taller or prefer a longer coat you may want to lengthen the pattern. </div>
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I love the roomier fit, it's much more comfortable when you're bundled up wearing layers of knitwear. I also far prefer the patch pockets to in-seam pockets. The <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/01/finished-red-coat-mccalls-7058.html">last coat I made </a></b>had in-seam pockets in the side princess seams and having worn it quite a lot, I do feel like they're positioned too far back. </div>
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The main coat fabric is an acrylic/wool mix from <b><a href="https://www.doughtysonline.co.uk/">Doughty's</a></b> (no longer available I'm afraid) and I was able to cut out the whole coat comfortably from 2.5m. As I wasn't originally intending to make a coat, I wanted to save costs by using a lining from my stash. There was just enough polka dot lining fabric left over from my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2012/09/finished-abbey-coat.html">Abbey Coat </a></b>(which, incidentally I never wear, anybody want it?!) so I used that. </div>
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Luckily for me it's a perfect match with the baby blue coating and a really good quality lining fabric to boot (originally from <a href="http://www.theliningcompany.co.uk/" style="font-weight: bold; text-align: justify;">here</a><span style="text-align: justify;">), so it was all a bit fortuitous. The other notions needed for the coat - an open-ended zip, tailoring interfacing and, wait for it, </span><i style="text-align: justify;">ice wool</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> - I purchased from Sew Over It. </span></div>
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Because of the nature of the online course I sewed the coat in small chunks, which corresponded with the video tutorials. It's a great way to take on a large project such as a coat, which can seem quite daunting, or if you're simply short of time and need to fit your sewing around short bursts. The only step I didn't incorporate is the top stitching down the front edges of the coat. This wasn't a design decision, it was simply because I couldn't fit the layers of coat front and facings under my sewing machine! If I had the choice I'd have definitely included the top stitching as the front facing does has a tendency to curl round (see last photo). </div>
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I started wearing this coat as soon as the last bit of hand sewing was finished and it's sooo warm, even warmer than my red coat which was underlined with flannel! Given the current cold snap, I haven't had a chance to take it to the dry cleaners for a professional press, which is why it looks a bit springy in some photos. When I can bear to remove it from my back I might take a trip to get it beautifully pressed. But then again, I'm enjoying wearing it so much I probably won't! x</div>
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Thank you to my friend Joe for this lovely picture of me (and my coat) in Lambs Conduit Street last week.</div>
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-6632995202311880092017-11-21T10:39:00.000+00:002017-11-21T10:39:05.136+00:00Slow sewing<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hello! Things have been a bit quiet of late on the blog, which doesn't necessarily equate to a lack of sewing. I've actually been sewing constantly for the past few weeks, but the projects have been so slow moving I don't have anything to show you. My main project has been a set of memory quilts for a family member and her sons. If you've read <a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2015/07/herrick.html"><b>this post</b></a>, or <a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2014/01/steves-quilt.html"><b>this one</b></a>, you'll know how long these things take and there's still a fair way to go. I'm now at the quilting stage and am looking forward to several days of sewing straight lines over the Christmas period! </div>
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The second project I've been working on is a coat. I know, I don't even need another coat, but sometimes these decisions are taken out of our hands.... At the GBSB Live in September I had a spare half hour wandering around on my own before meeting up with some sewing friends. Before I knew it, I'd somehow managed to buy 2.5m of baby blue coating without meaning to. Some kind of sorcery was clearly at play as I wasn't even looking for coat fabric!<br />
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The fabric was from <a href="https://www.doughtysonline.co.uk/"><b>Doughty's</b></a> and I think it's an acrylic/wool mix which annoyingly, doesn't seem to be on their website. In fact there are hardly any wool fabrics listed, maybe they sold them all at the show? Anyway, sorcery aside, the fabric just happened to be a perfect match for the <a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/sew-chloe-coat-new-online-class/"><b>Sew Over It Chloe Coat</b></a>, so that was another chunk of my autumn sewing sorted in one fell swoop. </div>
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Coat making has been going swimmingly so far - just bagging the lining and hemming to finish - so I should have a shiny new coat to blog about before too long.<br />
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My final pre-Christmas project will be to make something from this lovely <a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/faux-leather-silver/"><b>silver faux leather</b></a> I bought from Fabric Godmother. </div>
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Again, I don't know what possessed me, but I have a vision in my head of a chic little pencil skirt. Worn with a plain black top and a big necklace, I think it has the makings of an effortless Christmas party outfit! I've purchased some leather needles and leather glue and will probably need some of those bulldog clip things - I'll report back. Anybody else working on a slow project? x<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-37062779194281625002017-10-20T08:00:00.000+01:002017-10-20T08:00:02.014+01:00It's Cocktail Hour!<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Today I'm sharing the dress I made as part of the <b><a href="https://sewdirect.com/acatalog/The-Cocktail-Hour.html">Vogue Patterns Cocktail Hour Sewalong</a></b>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNVQmY5EcQmvLZ7XmP2vwM_6HtWsnLEb7DhyphenhyphenpuvsZ_kpHKLgv2Ze84xksmoTQ0CnjknoaNaF5shM4boEJ17Fi3TEs5EC2LBjJxtGEPm3YO87kSwR9CC-Cro0gYAti89yxqzLCslVcjgvo/s1600/DSC_0103.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1036" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRNVQmY5EcQmvLZ7XmP2vwM_6HtWsnLEb7DhyphenhyphenpuvsZ_kpHKLgv2Ze84xksmoTQ0CnjknoaNaF5shM4boEJ17Fi3TEs5EC2LBjJxtGEPm3YO87kSwR9CC-Cro0gYAti89yxqzLCslVcjgvo/s640/DSC_0103.jpg" width="414" /></a></div>
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The sewalong was launched in March by McCall's to raise money for <b><a href="https://eveappeal.org.uk/">The Eve Appeal</a></b> - a charity that funds research into gynaecological cancers. 26 sewing bloggers have been taking part in the blog tour since then, sewing up their choice of <b><a href="https://thefoldline.com/2017/03/03/cocktail-hour-with-mccalls-and-the-eve-appeal/">20 specially selected Vogue evening wear patterns</a></b>. Money raised from the sale of each pattern will go to the Eve Appeal, so anybody who buys one will be directly supporting the charity. You can check out what everybody else has been making by using the hashtag <b><i>#sipandsew</i></b> on Instagram and Twitter.</div>
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When it came to choosing my pattern, I was looking for a simple design that wouldn't require much brain power to sew. <b><a href="https://sewdirect.com/acatalog/Vogue-V1536.html">Vogue 1536</a></b> seemed to fit the bill perfectly - an elegant princess-seamed cocktail dress by American designers Tom and Linda Platt.<br />
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The pattern also comes with a strange Mel and Kim-style cropped bolero jacket, which you'll be pleased to hear I disregarded. I was only ever interested in the dress.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">She's spoiling for a fight...</span></td></tr>
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With such a simple design I knew that fabric choice would be key and spent a <i>looong</i> time making my mind up. I finally decided on an Italian wool crepe from <b><a href="https://www.tilthesungoesdown.com/">Til the Sun goes Down</a></b> for the main dress and a shantung satin from <b><a href="http://clothspot.co.uk/">ClothSpot</a></b> for the lining.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFfgQDBFTKVnv4jRnq9AUH9dfDTrWofJrHGBSgzsBaKjlMQShX7YjEsmGah0wK3ADHgF3DC4gCszRwma6N4bEmg8pdK69oMEC3FXEt57BYkAjSRVMnbZx2ui6Tb6uLlIuO4KtDm8ow9KeT/s1600/DSC_0040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1571" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFfgQDBFTKVnv4jRnq9AUH9dfDTrWofJrHGBSgzsBaKjlMQShX7YjEsmGah0wK3ADHgF3DC4gCszRwma6N4bEmg8pdK69oMEC3FXEt57BYkAjSRVMnbZx2ui6Tb6uLlIuO4KtDm8ow9KeT/s640/DSC_0040.jpg" width="628" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZSDlXsMvq7qf7k9ZmlA_WrNxzYoVG95ahDawABHL1oIe9y7XG5jfbrf7_RVlBMz74RGhv9p0CRlOMt58EdLWlQeyeHorTqz8X_V3eaR_NgUvdzjl_lOtGJYp7rc1v0tTUtT-mayWVDmx-/s1600/DSC_0058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1371" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZSDlXsMvq7qf7k9ZmlA_WrNxzYoVG95ahDawABHL1oIe9y7XG5jfbrf7_RVlBMz74RGhv9p0CRlOMt58EdLWlQeyeHorTqz8X_V3eaR_NgUvdzjl_lOtGJYp7rc1v0tTUtT-mayWVDmx-/s640/DSC_0058.jpg" width="548" /></a></div>
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The navy colourway I used is no longer in stock unfortunately, but <b><a href="https://www.tilthesungoesdown.com/product/Wool+crepe+Intense+blue">here's the link </a></b>to another blue. The lining fabric is also sold out - sorry! The crepe by itself is quite lightweight but takes on a completely different feel with the lining added. The shantung satin adds structure and weight to the dress and it feels <i>very</i> luxurious to wear - exactly what you want from a cocktail dress. The wool crepe is expensive (£32 a metre) but reasonably wide, and with a bit of clever pattern placement I was able to get away with using just one metre for my dress. You'll be relieved to hear that I did actually make a muslin before cutting into such posh fabric!<br />
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I'd read in a few reviews that the dress ran large, so cut a size 12 which was one size smaller than my measurements. I used the petite shortening lines at the waist only (you can also shorten for petite sizes at the hips) as the finished length is already quite short. The only other adjustment I made was a 5/8" tuck across the back piece as the V back gaped slightly on the muslin.<br />
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There wasn't anything untoward about the pattern and the construction was relatively straight forward. The only thing that leapt out at me was the lack of instruction to stay stitch the V front and back necklines. Yes, it's an obvious step, but I really think it should have been included - these areas are both cut on the bias and the last thing you want is a stretched out neckline. I also ditched the instructions when it came to adding the lining as there was far too much hand sewing for my liking. I attached the entire lining by machine, apart from the area around the back split which I hand stitched. I also hand stitched the dress hem.<br />
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For such a simple dress I did have to spend an enormous amount of time with a steam iron and a clapper pressing the curved princess seams flat. Luckily for me, the wool crepe was a dream to manipulate and I'm really happy with how well the seams pressed. I think they're worth the extra effort.<br />
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I have to say, this is a gorgeous dress: simple, classy and a great fit. It isn't <i>super</i> fitted, but the subtle shaping of the princess seams really shows off your curves, which I like. It's very me and I'm glad I kept it simple when it came to choosing the pattern. Cheers!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Two seconds after this photo was taken I spilt the entire cocktail down my arm...</span></td></tr>
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<i>The pattern and a fabric allowance were kindly provided by McCall's. All views my own. </i><br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-3065905896302483982017-10-11T09:30:00.002+01:002017-10-11T09:30:40.429+01:00Chambray Kalle Shirt<div style="text-align: justify;">
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I've had my beady eye on the Closet Case Files <b><a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/closet-case-kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern-intermediate/">Kalle pattern</a></b> ever since it was released. Despite being loose fitting, the body skimming silhouette really does seem to flatter all shapes so I convinced myself to step out of my usual fitted shirt comfort zone and give it a go. Two versions I've been particularly swooning over are <b><a href="http://sallieoh.blogspot.co.uk/2017/05/indigo-days.html">Sallie's tencel denim shirtdress</a></b> and <b><a href="https://guthrie-ghani.co.uk/blog/the-closet-case-patterns-kalle-summer-wardrobe-season">Lauren's cute cropped shirt version</a></b>. <br />
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The pattern comes in three lengths: cropped, tunic or shirtdress, with a multitude of options for the collar, placket and back pleat. I decided on a mixture of Views A and C - the faced hem and inverted pleat of view A and the traditional collar and button placket of view C.<br />
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I also thought long and hard about which size to cut as there's a <i>lot</i> of ease in this pattern. I was sorely tempted to size down, but after reading a few reviews I cut the correct size for my measurements (size 8) to ensure a good fit across the shoulders. I added 2.5" length to the back piece and 5" to the front piece and button band as the original cropped length of View A is <i>very</i> cropped. I'll lengthen the front piece even more next time as my bust makes the shirt ride up a bit higher than I'd like.<br />
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The only other adjustment I made was to overlap the back pleat 1" along the fold line - this reduces quite a bit of fullness in the back. If you do this, and you're making View A, don't forget to also adjust your back hem facing piece as it will be too wide if you don't. Ask me how I know...<br />
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The instructions are reasonably comprehensive and there's also a <b><a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/kalle-shirtdress-pattern-sewalong">Kalle sewalong</a> </b>on the blog which goes through all the trickier steps in greater detail. I'll admit, I did need to refer to the sewalong for the yoke (my mind went blank, even though I've sewn 'burrito' yokes loads of times!) I also needed it for the sleeve cuffs - they're not particularly complicated to sew, but I think the instructions would have benefited from a few more diagrams. I had no problem with the collar however as the pattern uses my favourite <b><a href="http://foursquarewalls.blogspot.co.uk/2013/09/sewing-collar-different-order.html">Four Square Walls</a></b> method for construction. There's even a separate smaller pattern piece for the under collar so you don't need to trim it down, hoorah!<br />
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I've now made several traditional shirts/shirtdresses with collars, but for some reason I still find the process quite daunting. This time I was determined to enjoy it, so I broke the construction down into five achievable chunks: button plackets, yoke, hem facing, collar and sleeve cuffs. It worked a treat - each chunk is substantial but not too overwhelming and you can see real progress at the end of each stage. I struggled most with the facing, probably because of the accuracy needed to get a clean, sharp finish around the curved hem. It's not my best work - mine isn't as clean and sharp as I'd like and there's still a bit of rippling along the hem, but I can live with it.<br />
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I also managed to avoid a whole construction step (buttons and buttonholes) by paying a quick visit to <b><a href="http://www.dmbuttons.co.uk/">DM Buttons</a></b> in Soho and getting them to add snaps for me! With hindsight I should have added one to the hem/facing area as well as it has a tendency to gape open. Never mind.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjPJ4Clc3cI4BSPB2G0UGn32HkMwwIOqMi5KnnNGmImBpOZSO1rhl9WUdCwiCvzjMspf6B73fn38wLAYaCAaiqyZzWtxdXwtZrIA975Sn6u-4zJMCPOo-6f9ZmCQWRydPBTA6PDboOs4mu/s1600/DSC_0023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="936" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjPJ4Clc3cI4BSPB2G0UGn32HkMwwIOqMi5KnnNGmImBpOZSO1rhl9WUdCwiCvzjMspf6B73fn38wLAYaCAaiqyZzWtxdXwtZrIA975Sn6u-4zJMCPOo-6f9ZmCQWRydPBTA6PDboOs4mu/s640/DSC_0023.jpg" width="374" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Eight snaps for a fiver, bargain!</span></td></tr>
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For fabric I blatantly copied Sallie and made my Kalle shirt in a <b><a href="https://www.myfabrics.co.uk/80-su8290-008_chambray-dark-blue.html">tencel chambray</a></b>. As far as I can gather from a quick Google search, tencel (or lyocell as it's sometimes known) is a sustainable fabric made from wood cellulose, very similar in drape and feel to rayon. I'd agree with this as the chambray I used was not like chambray I've sewn with in the past. The depth of colour, the drape and the soft feel of the fabric are all noticeably different (in a good way) to a standard chambray.<br />
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I found it quite difficult to source tencel in the UK and eventually tracked some down at German based <b><a href="http://myfabrics.co.uk/">myfabrics.co.uk</a></b>. I've had a long standing offer from the company to try out one of their fabrics and this seemed like the perfect time to take them up on it. The fabric arrived promptly and was even nicer than I'd envisaged. It washes and presses well and even though it has a similar drape to rayon I found it slightly easier to handle and sew as it doesn't shift around quite as much. It does, however, fray and shed fibres as soon as you look at it, so I was mightily relieved when all seams were concealed or finished. I should also point out that I had to lighten these photos (it was a dreary day when they were taken) so the blue colour of the fabric isn't as bright in real life.<br />
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Overall I like the finished Kalle shirt. The relaxed fit will take some getting used to, purely because it's so different to all the other shirts in my wardrobe. But on the flip side, it's really comfortable to wear so I think that's going to make it quite popular! x<br />
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<i>Fabric was given to me free of charge by myfabrics for review. All views my own. </i><br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com9tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-4447951393087060292017-10-02T08:54:00.000+01:002017-10-02T08:54:04.773+01:00Tie Belt Dress<div style="text-align: justify;">
Hellooo! I'm back and what better place to start than with a new, red dress...<br />
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I first decided to make this dress after spying a stunning red tie-belt number in a department store. Lovely as it was, the price tag was over £200 and I convinced myself I could make my own version. Coincidentally Laura from <b><a href="https://www.sewdifferent.co.uk/">Sew Different</a></b> had recently contacted me to see if I was interested in reviewing a pattern, and by great good fortune the <b><a href="https://www.sewdifferent.co.uk/tie-belt-dress-multisize-sewing-pattern/">Tie Belt Dress</a></b> was very close to the shape and style I was after. Although I did struggle with some aspects of the pattern and instructions, the end result is just what I was hoping for.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Original inspiration dress</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSaNsR8NBaVDtxXe8i0Xa8LN8hlZodffLvUy0Dyuh0ynMeyr87ZOsyeyenUotcaIm1oB0-rE5n_gdU9yOtT5vK3mUfrKX1D1G69HjGCfdbihgTnXuik0POcJfCsSKxr5MURXv9z1WFnhd/s1600/DSC_0193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1046" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoSaNsR8NBaVDtxXe8i0Xa8LN8hlZodffLvUy0Dyuh0ynMeyr87ZOsyeyenUotcaIm1oB0-rE5n_gdU9yOtT5vK3mUfrKX1D1G69HjGCfdbihgTnXuik0POcJfCsSKxr5MURXv9z1WFnhd/s640/DSC_0193.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">My version</span></td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">The dress is a softly fitting A-line shape, with darts to the back, a waist tie belt for definition and a high/low hem. There are no finished measurements given, so I chose the size closest to my actual measurements - a UK size 12 - which fits me reasonably well. </span><span style="text-align: justify;">The instructions are quite basic, but that wasn't a problem for me as as the dress is a very simple shape. </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: justify;">There were one or two parts that did have me scratching my head though. Firstly, the grain line arrows are shown going in two different </span>directions. I checked this with Laura and apparently this is to indicate the weft and the warp, but I still found them confusing. Secondly the cutting layouts show the pattern pieces cut on an unfolded, single layer of fabric, even though all pieces are cut on the fold - bizarre!<br />
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Once I'd clarified what was what, I made a few style changes:<br />
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- Levelled off the hemline (I'm not a fan of dramatic high/low hems)<br />
- Tapered in the side seams to reduce the A-line shape<br />
<span style="text-align: justify;">- Shortened the dress by 2.5cms</span><br />
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I decided to sew the sleeves as drafted before making a decision on length. As it turned out, they were too long on my short arms with the trim attached. Rather than shorten them, I simply turned the trim to the inside to act as a facing and top stitched it down, easy!<br />
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Construction was very straight forward - the only thing I'd say is to keep an eye on the position of the black dots for attaching the tie belt. The dot positions are for guidance only and may need moving up or down to align with your waist (I needed to move mine up). The instructions also have you attach the tie belt quite early in the proceedings, but I'd recommend waiting until the whole dress is constructed before pinning them into place. That way you get a more accurate idea of your natural waistline.<br />
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For fabric I went against the recommendations (light denim, needlecord, heavy cotton etc) and chose a <b><a href="https://sewoverit.co.uk/product/luxury-crepe-red/">luxury crepe</a></b> from Sew Over It with a nice drape. I think the original shape of the dress in a weightier fabric would have looked too sack-like on me. The drapier fabric worked well and was close to the fabric from the original inspiration dress. At £14 a metre it worked out much cheaper to make my own version too! </div>
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I can always find room in my wardrobe for a red dress, and although this one is a little different to my usual style, it's growing on me. I just need to get used to the dropped shoulders and oversized silhouette. It's a really easy dress to wear and I can see myself wearing it with tights and boots once the weather turns fully autumnal. Have a good day! x</div>
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<i>A copy of the Tie Belt Dress pattern was given to me free of charge for review. All opinions my own.</i><br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com54tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-38015861172470958452017-09-26T11:27:00.000+01:002017-09-26T13:39:18.574+01:00Seven Years of Blogging!<div style="text-align: justify;">
Today my blog turns seven! Seven years since I tentatively published my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2010/09/story-so-far.html">first post</a></b> featuring a lovely, but stiff-as-a-board Colette Sencha blouse.<br />
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A lot has happened during the past seven years. I've discovered a passion and love for sewing I never knew existed, made some lifelong friends, spent thousands of hours at the sewing machine and bought more than a few metres of fabric. This time last year I even <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2016/09/get-into-sewing.html">had a book published</a></b>! Blogs in general and sewing blogs in particular have also seen quite a change during that time. Sewing bloggers are publishing fewer posts and some have even stopped blogging altogether. There are several good reasons for this, but I still find it sad when a sewing blog ceases to be.</div>
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Instagram has definitely played its part and I'm as guilty as the next person. It's all too easy to 'like' something on Instagram rather than go through the rigmarole of leaving a comment on a blog. And let's face it, posting a single photo of a finished garment takes far less time than slaving over a hot computer to write a full pattern review. The thing is, I <i>like</i> reading the full reviews and the sewing details. I want to know how a fabric behaved and what fitting adjustments were needed. I love <i>reading</i> about sewing. As attractive as the quick fix will always be, I'd still rather read the longer, less glamorous version on a sewing blog.<br />
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The other area of sewing social media that seems to have suddenly sprung to life is sewing vlogs. I can see that vlogs serve a slightly different purpose to sewing blogs, but try as I might, I just can't warm to them. Unlike Instagram, there's actually quite a time investment required to actually sit and watch them (the few I've viewed all seem to last around 15 minutes). I'd much rather spend that time reading blogs! Admittedly I'm always years behind when it comes to any form of new social media, but I'm absolutely certain I'll never start vlogging myself. I'd have to contend with the twin horrors of seeing myself on camera <i>and</i> listening to my own voice. No thanks! <br />
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I'll still continue to write my blog, even if fewer people are reading them, simply because having a blog is hugely important to me. Admittedly I've been a bit quiet lately (a combination of summer holidays and back-to-school madness), but I do really enjoy the process of writing posts and reviewing the garments I make. Call me a Luddite, but that's the way I like it!<br />
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A massive thank you to everybody who has offered such unwavering support and friendship over the past seven years. I really do appreciate it. xx<br />
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I'll be back soon with something rarely seen on this blog (ha!) - a new red dress!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Xl-Ol3aP1cWrcXpgdlZF-ObOjS36twf16lZbSmRaZZ0rpyPLeEY9sogtSiDkbejr9y4-7QaOsxmSAiTdsYB-i4PfNba8tE8j0hd2bghDXxiEwhoujg8oBARX-kQ-H2yUzZG3Gwk1bFNM/s1600/IMG_2241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1329" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6Xl-Ol3aP1cWrcXpgdlZF-ObOjS36twf16lZbSmRaZZ0rpyPLeEY9sogtSiDkbejr9y4-7QaOsxmSAiTdsYB-i4PfNba8tE8j0hd2bghDXxiEwhoujg8oBARX-kQ-H2yUzZG3Gwk1bFNM/s640/IMG_2241.JPG" width="526" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sadly this is a pretend front cover!</span></td></tr>
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com141tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-18946254536126127642017-08-09T08:00:00.000+01:002017-08-09T08:00:19.319+01:00Simplicity sundress mark two<div style="text-align: justify;">
Way back in 2013 I made myself a strappy sundress using <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2013/08/simplicity-sundress.html">Simplicity 2176</a></b>. During its short life it was a great success, it was made with lovely fabric and had a cool vintage vibe. Sadly it came a cropper in the washing machine when the blue dye from the main dress seeped into the white bodice band, leaving it an unsightly shade of dishwater grey. I know, I know, I probably could have saved it by unpicking the bodice band and adding a new one, but as we all know I'm totally lazy and that was never going to happen. The dress was donated to charity and I was left one sundress short in my summer wardrobe. This year, I <i>finally</i> got round to sewing a replacement.<br />
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I did a bit of tinkering with the bodice for this second version. The fit on the bust on my original dress was always quite tight, which made the waistline ride up as a consequence. This time I added a one inch full bust adjustment (FBA) and lengthened the bodice by 5/8". I also added a little extra to the side seams as I find very tight waists unbearable in hot weather. Overall I think the fit on the bodice is much better - it's not actually that noticeable but I feel the benefit!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitAsHsWSVaIemDesygohgxrxmzIVxXgfao28yAOn7Cl8QrxwFqvGR3HqMLc58M7CzKrIk9TG-WaBfCNNrjaSvj8W94nYkedraoLAfq4ATq58GU5eBKXN5P0492iJqoBX9grUIPtS1jvUFW/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitAsHsWSVaIemDesygohgxrxmzIVxXgfao28yAOn7Cl8QrxwFqvGR3HqMLc58M7CzKrIk9TG-WaBfCNNrjaSvj8W94nYkedraoLAfq4ATq58GU5eBKXN5P0492iJqoBX9grUIPtS1jvUFW/s400/image.jpeg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Original on left, new version on right</span></td></tr>
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The skirt is from New Look 6557, the same one I used for my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/05/new-look-fireworks-dress.html">Fireworks dress</a></b>. I love this shape of skirt (a quarter circle) in the hot weather as it's cool and airy without being too big. The only other change I made was to substitute the lapped zip for an invisible one and attach the inside bodice band to the zip by machine for a neat finish. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJMxzNaZVRXx7DugkNA3epk_oxhpuSmQ_l_HUSh5pYl2HJtwf4ZX9gYRrqJWSlcwUhYXQXkbiDZFHaOz1Ve0jgbWD0_8oV4GDUnsSGnQPlK8T2NEWSyVbuYugc6CS8YS3Z77PPq8ga2m1k/s1600/DSC_0131.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="810" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJMxzNaZVRXx7DugkNA3epk_oxhpuSmQ_l_HUSh5pYl2HJtwf4ZX9gYRrqJWSlcwUhYXQXkbiDZFHaOz1Ve0jgbWD0_8oV4GDUnsSGnQPlK8T2NEWSyVbuYugc6CS8YS3Z77PPq8ga2m1k/s640/DSC_0131.jpg" width="322" /></a></div>
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The duck egg blue fabric is a lovely lightweight floral lawn that I leapt on when <b><a href="http://blog.elisepatterns.com/">Freya</a></b> was de-stashing at a recent meet up. There was 2m to play with, which was just enough for this dress, thanks Freya! The colour is slightly brighter in real life, more like the photo below.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUrUQ9b8BcigcKTV6WJ5_JcdZmo57vqTSCn7D3OkU-Cnnc0sH9xm3xjgfstHE4X-ieMESnTJssKbcUB2CVgLI1I_ujn0qNhxKJCOL3OCB3KUoO-L7bC68gf0YLrX2K0lekvXPOHXPBPEYM/s1600/DSC_0158.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1302" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUrUQ9b8BcigcKTV6WJ5_JcdZmo57vqTSCn7D3OkU-Cnnc0sH9xm3xjgfstHE4X-ieMESnTJssKbcUB2CVgLI1I_ujn0qNhxKJCOL3OCB3KUoO-L7bC68gf0YLrX2K0lekvXPOHXPBPEYM/s640/DSC_0158.jpg" width="520" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Spot the felt tip marks that still need to be washed out!</span></td></tr>
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Because the fabric is very light I underlined the bodice sections and cut a separate skirt lining with white silk cotton. I probably should have added a full lining to the bodice instead of underlining it as this would have concealed the notched princess seams. I also added strips of interfacing either side of the invisible zip for extra support and stay tape across the top of the bodice to prevent it stretching.<br />
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Without really intending to I seem to have put quite a lot of effort into making this dress! The irony is that there hasn't been a truly hot day in London since I finished it, so it hasn't actually been worn yet. It does look good with a cardigan though! x</div>
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-75590345305982702052017-08-06T18:18:00.000+01:002017-08-07T07:59:03.200+01:00Great British Sewing Bee Live ticket winners! <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRllXPrfiMwZwpByDTswK9bvSmlxFUFcDjC4aKXyqjUnDo-r2VpZomjhnu9t_VWcCoqLC3QVlC35RVGBFGBkyJ3l48FQWdW9JYg1SABx46Vxs2f2jsA2-wQawn4xhysETNwR290Bg_4s0/s1600/GBSB+Live+CMYK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIRllXPrfiMwZwpByDTswK9bvSmlxFUFcDjC4aKXyqjUnDo-r2VpZomjhnu9t_VWcCoqLC3QVlC35RVGBFGBkyJ3l48FQWdW9JYg1SABx46Vxs2f2jsA2-wQawn4xhysETNwR290Bg_4s0/s400/GBSB+Live+CMYK.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Thank you so much to everybody who entered <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/08/the-great-british-sewing-bee-live.html">my giveaway</a></b> to win tickets to <b><a href="http://thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com/">The Great British Sewing Bee Live</a></b>, I loved reading about everybody's first makes! The five winners who each win a pair of tickets to attend the show on either Thursday 21st or Friday 22nd September 2017 are:</div>
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Pendle Stitches</div>
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Maria Makes</div>
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nanacathydotcom</div>
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Sharon Pickles</div>
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Frankie Baldwin</div>
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Congratulations ladies! Please email me your address details and I can arrange for the tickets to be sent out to you.</div>
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If you weren't one of the lucky winners, don't forget you can still claim £1.50 off <b><a href="https://www.theticketfactory.com/thegreatbritishsewingbeelive/online/?_ga=2.90554970.1782901511.1501497360-2073564983.1499169781">advance adult ticket prices</a></b> by quoting my discount code <b>HMJ</b>.</div>
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Looking forward to seeing some of you there! x</div>
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-7523108272296555042017-08-01T08:00:00.000+01:002017-08-01T08:00:08.707+01:00The Great British Sewing Bee Live giveaway<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgldgIrbBcC7mgC3lbYsFV9zCXeHl9C8cL30V52QtH4osGRDJx63drSBFTG9nhYbPDqnBiKTD3SQbwpF-O7SixFFMrLrTl6UPo-S1q2_R8-4S9bbFa4COnM7M4PrVxMNRyI0CmOLIvQ_zg/s1600/GBSB+Live+CMYK.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="750" data-original-width="1000" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgldgIrbBcC7mgC3lbYsFV9zCXeHl9C8cL30V52QtH4osGRDJx63drSBFTG9nhYbPDqnBiKTD3SQbwpF-O7SixFFMrLrTl6UPo-S1q2_R8-4S9bbFa4COnM7M4PrVxMNRyI0CmOLIvQ_zg/s400/GBSB+Live+CMYK.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you're a fan of The Great British Sewing Bee then you'll no doubt be aware that <b><a href="http://thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com/">The Great British Sewing Bee Live</a></b> will be taking place from 21st to 24th September 2017 at Excel London. I loved the GBSB when it was on TV and am really looking forward to seeing how the concept translates to a live show format.<br />
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From the information I've had so far, it looks like there will be LOTS going on to attract dressmakers and sewing lovers of all abilities, including:<br />
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<li>The GBSB Live <b><a href="http://thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com/supertheatre/">Super Theatre</a></b> featuring Patrick Grant and Esme Young and hosted by comedian, author, Grumpy Old Woman and red lipstick fan Jenny Eclair</li>
<li><b><a href="http://thegreatbritishsewingbeelive.com/workshop-programme/">Workshops</a></b> and demonstrations by GBSB contestants and top sewing tutors</li>
<li>Dressmaking drop-in clinics</li>
<li>A make-at-home fashion catwalk</li>
<li>The Fashion and Textile Museum's<b> Liberty in Fashion</b> exhibition, specially curated for the event</li>
<li>200+ dressmaking and sewing suppliers</li>
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If this sounds like a description of your perfect day, then you're in luck as I have <b>five pairs of tickets</b> to give away to UK readers. Please note that the tickets are for either <b>Thursday 21st or Friday 22nd September only</b> so you must be able to attend the show on those dates. </div>
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To enter leave a comment on this post telling me what was the first thing you ever sewed. The closing date is midnight on <b>Friday 4th August 2017</b> and winners will be chosen at random and announced on my blog.<br />
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If you're not one of the lucky winners then don't despair, I also have a discount code - <b>HMJ -</b> which gives readers £1.50 off advance adult tickets bought <b><a href="https://www.theticketfactory.com/thegreatbritishsewingbeelive/online/?_ga=2.90554970.1782901511.1501497360-2073564983.1499169781">here</a></b>. Come along, it will be a laugh!<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com56tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-64297000824668403452017-07-28T09:39:00.000+01:002017-07-28T09:39:04.466+01:00More sleeveless shell tops <div style="text-align: justify;">
My <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/06/quest-for-ultimate-sleeveless-top.html">Sleeveless Shell Top</a></b> has been such a hit this summer I promptly made myself two more. Taking on board my own advice from my first version, I made a couple of tiny adjustments to the pattern: I lengthened the front curve to match the back and eliminated the centre back seam. I also used <b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlx93fYpFOY">this method</a></b> to attach the all-in-one facings by machine and it worked like a dream. Now that I know what I'm doing (it only took me five years to work it out...) it actually takes me less time to attach an all-in-one facing than it takes to attach bias tape<i> and</i> you get a lovely clean finish. I'm a complete convert!</div>
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First up is a Liberty lawn version in my all time favourite print - <b><a href="https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/carline-tana-lawn-cotton-R069456006.html?dwvar_000523243_color=A&referrer=search#q=carline&start=1">Carline</a> </b>(only available in pink at the moment). I had just one metre of fabric, which was lucky as that's all you need for this pattern! I made it during a sewing afternoon over at <b><a href="http://www.tillyandthebuttons.com/">Tilly's </a></b>and am amazed I managed to sew it without any mistakes as I was more than a little distracted by the sewing chat. It's such a lovely, colourful top and looks great with all kinds of solid coloured garments: jeans, skinny trousers, red skirts, the lot! <br />
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The second version is made from Swiss Dot cotton*, this time in turquoise.<br />
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I used the same kind of fabric for my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/07/la-maison-victor-malia-top.html">Malia top</a></b> and it's a really nice weight for a sleeveless top - it has a lovely drape. I only had a 60cm remnant, (snapped up for £2 from <b><a href="http://www.fabricgodmother.co.uk/">Fabric Godmother</a></b> last year) and it was just enough to cut out the front and back pieces. I love it when I get to use up smaller pieces from my stash like this! I cut the facing pieces from white silk cotton.<br />
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This top will probably get even more wear than the Carline one as it's a solid colour so can be paired up with virtually anything.</div>
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Three is probably my limit for this pattern this summer - I dread to think how many I'm going to make next year though! I love this pattern. x<br />
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*Every single time I type this fabric name I think of Dot Cotton from Eastenders... <br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-41839989728942058032017-07-26T09:57:00.001+01:002017-07-26T09:57:17.165+01:00Dragonfly Fabrics Giveaway Winner<div style="text-align: justify;">
Thank you very much to everybody who entered the <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/07/dragonfly-fabric-summer-giveaway.html">Dragonfly Fabrics giveaway</a></b> last week. I've pressed a few buttons and can now reveal that the winner of 2m of fabric and a pattern of their choice is.....<b>kaytebell</b>, hoorah! Congratulations Kaytebell, an email is on its way to you for further details.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4iaF3cGDnt7ev6zqs9ZP896pMl6VNba7PTPt7ZMyWDSX0FTrBgajG1QicI2qzUh5qRaZBd-O7b5Nd6qLtWtP5B9CWizFgP-nMGyGBpY04aQ5QfzTfQMdXgUyM01sk68kZT-TU21npJPhR/s1600/IMG_2111.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="1280" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4iaF3cGDnt7ev6zqs9ZP896pMl6VNba7PTPt7ZMyWDSX0FTrBgajG1QicI2qzUh5qRaZBd-O7b5Nd6qLtWtP5B9CWizFgP-nMGyGBpY04aQ5QfzTfQMdXgUyM01sk68kZT-TU21npJPhR/s400/IMG_2111.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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If you've been tempted by any of the lush fabrics on the <b><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/">Dragonfly Fabric website</a></b> don't forget there's currently 15% off all purchases with my special discount code. Just enter the code <b><i>sew40</i></b> when checking out of the site. <b>The 15% discount is valid until 30th August 2017</b>. You're welcome!</div>
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Have a good week. x</div>
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-44108786561833172832017-07-21T09:05:00.000+01:002017-07-21T09:05:53.570+01:00Pattern Runway Kimono Sleeved Dress<div style="text-align: justify;">
This is the <b><a href="https://patternrunway.com/shop/easy-short-sleeved-kimono-dress-pattern/">Easy Short Sleeved Kimono Dress</a></b> from Pattern Runway - a relaxed fit dress with an elastic waist, short kimono sleeves and keyhole opening at the centre back. I hadn't heard of Pattern Runway before I bought this pattern and I think their designs are lovely - contemporary and chic with some great detailing. I actually bought my pattern as a PDF from <b><a href="https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/patterns/easy-short-sleeved-kimono-dress/106966">Craftsy</a></b> but the company also has a website with a pattern shop <b><a href="https://patternrunway.com/">here</a></b>. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfIEcXgF6p_KKmNW3SmXuNSJ0iuBicWiit-2GAHhiPVRLmOUcSVhRcWpiY-PZx-xDkqRYmI0evTh0Uzv1uFLjPwQ_WoXBFhdHnThZc08L6yYAaeVkTjHyo6asx9euYnTGQ1Cb-_GKR2oXX/s1600/easyshortsleevedkimonodress_aiid643839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="756" data-original-width="756" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfIEcXgF6p_KKmNW3SmXuNSJ0iuBicWiit-2GAHhiPVRLmOUcSVhRcWpiY-PZx-xDkqRYmI0evTh0Uzv1uFLjPwQ_WoXBFhdHnThZc08L6yYAaeVkTjHyo6asx9euYnTGQ1Cb-_GKR2oXX/s400/easyshortsleevedkimonodress_aiid643839.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The instructions are well explained with clear diagrams and, where appropriate, industrial sewing methods are used in order to complete the garment quicker e.g. all seams apart from the centre back are pressed flat together and to the back. It's also worth noting that seam allowances for this pattern are 1cm rather than the standard 1.5cm (5/8").</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KlpG7D0AlPFImfZI0rC0pXBCFz0MhmHXg1wFnpo_y2n-o8ZnCKXBNcBeW2TYa_RJMR_xe65JOZ-bKZ91k-WwcGLvdytUBeF70XRuhQbpokteVrXo5QZ2l3uoRpPc4kWn2kpQoeTHMFuw/s1600/DSC_0048.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="954" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4KlpG7D0AlPFImfZI0rC0pXBCFz0MhmHXg1wFnpo_y2n-o8ZnCKXBNcBeW2TYa_RJMR_xe65JOZ-bKZ91k-WwcGLvdytUBeF70XRuhQbpokteVrXo5QZ2l3uoRpPc4kWn2kpQoeTHMFuw/s640/DSC_0048.jpg" width="380" /></a></div>
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There are no finished measurements provided (apart from the length), so I took a punt and sewed a size M based on the size chart. The fit was pretty much spot on and I only made two small changes to the pattern. The dress is supposed to have a deep (8cms) topstitched hem which I wasn't keen on, so I shortened my skirt piece by 8cms, plus a further 3cms once it was sewn up. The finished length is just above my knee. The other change was to the sleeve openings which were drafted too low for my liking. I raised the underarm seam by 3.5cm, then curved it round to meet up with the side seam. The armholes still have a lot of room but are now more modest, ensuring I don't flash my entire bra every time I lift my arms. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiurSOlHkA-OHvPWqo1aH7ab6StN4rGj1gqKyk6GBX3nJruXJ1qKHGQzk_mCQ_jDciVijbeBPKNDH9JjC1PABbbFnIg5CEkMAastXA0L_013Lvf7gLPK1AvZMqNTrLe_qfzzetoAJLKrTOH/s1600/DSC_0055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1473" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiurSOlHkA-OHvPWqo1aH7ab6StN4rGj1gqKyk6GBX3nJruXJ1qKHGQzk_mCQ_jDciVijbeBPKNDH9JjC1PABbbFnIg5CEkMAastXA0L_013Lvf7gLPK1AvZMqNTrLe_qfzzetoAJLKrTOH/s640/DSC_0055.jpg" width="588" /></a></div>
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Construction-wise, the dress was <i>very</i> straight forward and easy to sew. The skirt is just a rectangle with elastic sewn to the waistline seam to cinch it in. This does the job but I'd be tempted to create a waist casing for the elastic next time for a neater finish inside. The neckline and arm openings are both finished with facings but I only used the neckline facing. I find armhole facings a pain to stay in place at the best of times, even more so when working with the world's drapiest fabric. I finished mine with a narrow double hem and they look fine. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrfAks0Errj8C0T-97dwd1881DAn2u1ils4WEwiQ8Zo8Q0rXOD5YuNHwq1YBhVI1qolXpCwemslwMsqmRzRPgLT8hjgVuYraZ4CCnqaSnFFk5ge0XaOLU5h-VGVI_6QzNDFZsxHIZk8LL/s1600/DSC_0020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1024" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMrfAks0Errj8C0T-97dwd1881DAn2u1ils4WEwiQ8Zo8Q0rXOD5YuNHwq1YBhVI1qolXpCwemslwMsqmRzRPgLT8hjgVuYraZ4CCnqaSnFFk5ge0XaOLU5h-VGVI_6QzNDFZsxHIZk8LL/s640/DSC_0020.jpg" width="406" /></a></div>
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Fabric recommendations are for light to medium weight fabrics that drape - the key word here is <i>drape</i>. I used a <i>very</i> drapey rayon from Fabric Rehab (now sadly closed down) and it was the perfect fabric for the pattern. The biscuit coloured background colour probably isn't the most flattering shade for my skin tone, but who cares when your fabric is printed with sailing boats and polka dots?! </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9e_3rhjjoFheCNu2QaFhyWiFbXiU8JKukg2l7xC-gYCLefbHZ22K9XSwGfFnYGtY6QnkMSUbSmmWYdBaR9H4LJzaGajGSsitYgb1xSlHC2bGO8h9kMPvi6r2Oq0lMaW0PsIKNr9l5joQ/s1600/DSC_0019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1204" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS9e_3rhjjoFheCNu2QaFhyWiFbXiU8JKukg2l7xC-gYCLefbHZ22K9XSwGfFnYGtY6QnkMSUbSmmWYdBaR9H4LJzaGajGSsitYgb1xSlHC2bGO8h9kMPvi6r2Oq0lMaW0PsIKNr9l5joQ/s640/DSC_0019.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The relaxed fit makes this a cool and airy dress for summer. Perfect for slinging in a suitcase to take on holiday or for wearing out and about on baking hot days. The pattern is described on the website as 'super easy, super quick to sew and lovely to wear' and I don't think I'd argue with that! Have a good day. x</div>
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-51613258688516022982017-07-17T12:06:00.001+01:002017-07-17T12:06:58.386+01:00Dragonfly Fabric summer giveaway <div style="text-align: justify;">
The sun is out and the sky is blue in the UK - perfect conditions for summer dressmaking. I love sewing for different seasons and summer sewing definitely allows you to crack open the light, drapey fabrics in your stash. If you don't have <i>quite</i> the perfect fabric for that summer project then don't worry, because I've teamed up with <b><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/">Dragonfly Fabrics</a></b> to bring you a terrific summer giveaway. One lucky reader will get to choose a pattern and two metres of fabric from the website. Hoorah! Read on for some fabric and pattern inspiration...</div>
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My favourites fabrics are the cotton lawns (see below), but don't forget <a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/cotton-chambray/"><b>cotton chambrays</b></a> which are just crying out to be made into shirts or shirtdresses.</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh674_1egmmID21bFNe5m44_BwdNZ1lO5p3J8aiGmQsdLT6GF7YVFE9zpUS8FrrO1CopPuwa-cC5qeuX_mdVwobyVQZaVSPv_Rq9CuJ8gWbNs2CA3NQJyaUS7ZsuUhJwiTgjzKU0dae8VyK/s1600/4171_30_1493222268_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh674_1egmmID21bFNe5m44_BwdNZ1lO5p3J8aiGmQsdLT6GF7YVFE9zpUS8FrrO1CopPuwa-cC5qeuX_mdVwobyVQZaVSPv_Rq9CuJ8gWbNs2CA3NQJyaUS7ZsuUhJwiTgjzKU0dae8VyK/s640/4171_30_1493222268_image.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/sewing-patterns/patterns-by-designer/closet-case-patterns/product-4171.php">Closet Case Files Kalle Shirt & Dress</a></span></b></td></tr>
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Or <a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/linen-fabric/"><b>linens</b></a> for stylish trousers or shorts. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy3dG-B-7p9Cg-2UkB-182Ajj0MWFk1w0qlFsiISBbaGo3p7Y3nUasd6CVpkU_xokXFmmY-iwMFXE1Ldu9W_Te3z_i3NOjugsCcXni1wNbo7fHChw6ejwM6XEofV615VdCxNegbKax8-uC/s1600/4099_30_1489677102_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="950" data-original-width="633" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy3dG-B-7p9Cg-2UkB-182Ajj0MWFk1w0qlFsiISBbaGo3p7Y3nUasd6CVpkU_xokXFmmY-iwMFXE1Ldu9W_Te3z_i3NOjugsCcXni1wNbo7fHChw6ejwM6XEofV615VdCxNegbKax8-uC/s640/4099_30_1489677102_image.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/sewing-patterns/patterns-by-designer/megan-nielsen-patterns/product-4099.php">Megan Nielsen Flint Pants & Shorts</a></b></span></td></tr>
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These are my favourite cotton lawns, suitable for almost any lightweight top or dress pattern.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2Q1lST2krIwh3S5QWhE1atZbeKjzjXosyD4-guO-upCj-PPYhwjCLi8lud-TVDFR35f8An9a_c4LsExjonKosLu2oUyVj4dc6bqaJj0mg6SCx2FXXgRwHVQc2ZSpgI5MnrCDKaGH7t4z/s1600/4210_30_1496746919_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="905" data-original-width="905" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk2Q1lST2krIwh3S5QWhE1atZbeKjzjXosyD4-guO-upCj-PPYhwjCLi8lud-TVDFR35f8An9a_c4LsExjonKosLu2oUyVj4dc6bqaJj0mg6SCx2FXXgRwHVQc2ZSpgI5MnrCDKaGH7t4z/s400/4210_30_1496746919_image.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/cotton-lawn-voile/product-4210.php"><span style="font-size: small;">Floral Print Turquoise</span></a></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="968" data-original-width="975" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigsMObpBYq-EZS9nPOdXPGRv3Klj22Iv-PbdWXFc-JPQR98B6_C60ZLGFkeXRai_rik1SYZCCCQ0bue75rXSSC7MbijapBtqM19dBgyfobKxbBczkPtlqECX7ENM_mIp2QWYTGrWzwBy1l/s400/3437_30_1465471642_image.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/cotton-lawn-voile/product-3437.php"><b>Soft Cotton Lawn - Brushstrokes</b></a></span></td></tr>
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I love both colourways in this two-tone floral print.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb-iP08FguNUkuvFoR6TkfR6dUa1j-DBilGydWs1O9lEqR9KCkObf9MUJKSJ4uGtBlos_qakR9hSh0X5HYYsofvWLDQwfwg1glmk8wApx2CoucFI3fdCrCdQ982ngZ63kheZY-TY5Sz1uh/s1600/3999_30_1488310117_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="900" data-original-width="900" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjb-iP08FguNUkuvFoR6TkfR6dUa1j-DBilGydWs1O9lEqR9KCkObf9MUJKSJ4uGtBlos_qakR9hSh0X5HYYsofvWLDQwfwg1glmk8wApx2CoucFI3fdCrCdQ982ngZ63kheZY-TY5Sz1uh/s400/3999_30_1488310117_image.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/cotton-lawn-voile/product-3999.php">St Ives Floral - Yellow</a></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS79VGhxUqfXLJVFy3SsesAmoTl1_YdG6gZ6Jf3P7narFl6yWTysUOnnIf3YC6STLmq1t6B2ItwIbnlEyA1jdZ9_8AHuQHcAvcHWZgQPv1q5Qh6UM_iXjOQ1_h5FtlejLgnicFmRCmkAgc/s1600/4000_30_1490015610_image.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1000" data-original-width="1000" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgS79VGhxUqfXLJVFy3SsesAmoTl1_YdG6gZ6Jf3P7narFl6yWTysUOnnIf3YC6STLmq1t6B2ItwIbnlEyA1jdZ9_8AHuQHcAvcHWZgQPv1q5Qh6UM_iXjOQ1_h5FtlejLgnicFmRCmkAgc/s400/4000_30_1490015610_image.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/cotton-lawn-voile/product-4210.php"><b>St Ives Floral - Red</b></a></span></td></tr>
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Rayon Challis Viscose - ideal for patterns requiring drape. I absolutely <i>love</i> this teal chalked flower print. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/rayon-challis--viscose/product-4168.php"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Chalk Joyful</span></b></a></td></tr>
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I think it would look awesome sewn up as the <a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/sewing-patterns/patterns-by-designer/named-patterns/product-4051.php"><b>Named Helga Wrap Playsuit</b></a>. It's not really my style, I just think it's a lovely combination!</div>
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Inspired to start sewing? Good! <span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; border-spacing: 0px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">To enter, just take a look at the Dragonfly Fabrics <b><a href="http://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/index.php" target="_blank">website</a> </b>and
leave a comment on this post telling me what your favourite fabric is. The giveaway is open
internationally and closes at midnight GMT on <b>Monday 24th July 2017</b>.
<i>Please</i> make sure you leave your email address if it's not linked to your
Blogger profile so I can contact you if you're the winner. </span></span>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">And there's more</span>…<span style="font-family: inherit;">. r</span><span style="font-family: inherit;">eaders of my blog can also claim a 15% discount on all purchases from Dragonfly Fabrics. </span>Just enter the code <b><i>sew40</i></b><b style="font-family: inherit;"> </b><span style="font-family: inherit;">when </span>checking out of the site. <b>The 15% discount is valid until 30th August 2017</b>. It's also worth signing up to their newsletter for updates on any new fabrics or patterns they're showcasing. There's a sign up link at the bottom of their website.</div>
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Massive thanks to Simon and Dorte from Dragonfly Fabrics for offering this awesome and very generous giveaway. Good luck everybody! x</div>
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com140tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-3009761031237248072017-07-07T10:00:00.000+01:002017-07-07T10:00:00.160+01:00La Maison Victor Malia Top<div style="text-align: justify;">
I'm delighted to be part of a world blog tour to help launch the English edition of Dutch sewing magazine <i><a href="https://www.lamaisonvictor.com/" style="font-weight: bold;">La Maison Victor</a></i><i>. </i>Until now the magazine has only been available in French or Dutch, so this will come as welcome news to its many fans. Bloggers in the launch countries (UK, US, Canada and Australia) have each been asked to make up a pattern from the magazine and blog about it. Today it's my turn!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjLw3xZwpujCZQJOVwE-DRrCwYeVaLohkodzFmcCP66bNt91znV6RquBtVre6jqayJShw6WnOyKG7xBVZ6AaGOiFnofBcCdFY_I_NEiZJw1I4v6VFNS2wHp0YbimYfESmeRdfG5qhm_P1/s1600/DSC_0002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1566" data-original-width="1600" height="625" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNjLw3xZwpujCZQJOVwE-DRrCwYeVaLohkodzFmcCP66bNt91znV6RquBtVre6jqayJShw6WnOyKG7xBVZ6AaGOiFnofBcCdFY_I_NEiZJw1I4v6VFNS2wHp0YbimYfESmeRdfG5qhm_P1/s640/DSC_0002.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I have to say, I fell heavily for the magazine as soon as I received my copy. It has a modern, stylish feel to it and the projects are beautifully photographed and designed. It's packed full of content too, with eight sewing patterns to choose from: three children's patterns, four women's (two dresses, a skirt and a top) and one men's pattern. There's also a knitting pattern for a short summer sweater.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhGe4n2i0CVj-yHXJzfVGA4Qws_3hMEPHXJxb8rHh0v2kJ2kf3832qYl_wuGmd7c5cyFxBAsMyezpbMaZfUYy7cx78AwR2U6aYPNVNNJ8ZVLOw9LSzLUPPj82S5HIb-YGyW0ZtL5LmnCp/s1600/DSC_0004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="994" data-original-width="1600" height="395" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJhGe4n2i0CVj-yHXJzfVGA4Qws_3hMEPHXJxb8rHh0v2kJ2kf3832qYl_wuGmd7c5cyFxBAsMyezpbMaZfUYy7cx78AwR2U6aYPNVNNJ8ZVLOw9LSzLUPPj82S5HIb-YGyW0ZtL5LmnCp/s640/DSC_0004.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I chose the Malia Top purely because it looked the easiest to sew and I didn't have a great deal of time to spare. It's a simple, sleeveless tank and as I'm currently on a roll with this style I thought it would be good to add another pattern to the mix. </div>
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Patterns are included in a separate pull-out section in the middle of the magazine and need to be traced as there are several pieces on each sheet. There's a handy information box for each pattern which highlights the pattern pieces needed and the sheets they're printed on. I found this really helpful when tracing the pieces. Seam allowances also need to be added, but as I only had two main pattern pieces (the bias strips for the neckline and armholes didn't require them), this didn't take long to do. Instructions are comprehensive and detailed - refreshingly different from Burda instructions which have always made zero sense to me.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZB_a8A7h4TTJgbxcNwIe1mwx8iXOJY0SSRmVpqxJTG-qc51iaDchusttA7Gj9yY-tc9G9IjnX7W07TWBttgin_kFPVE9PZMUznRoLdfwn4kS8HvsIoc5xYJNQMND4coWYT6jkxwLvPJ6Y/s1600/DSC_0008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1065" data-original-width="1600" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZB_a8A7h4TTJgbxcNwIe1mwx8iXOJY0SSRmVpqxJTG-qc51iaDchusttA7Gj9yY-tc9G9IjnX7W07TWBttgin_kFPVE9PZMUznRoLdfwn4kS8HvsIoc5xYJNQMND4coWYT6jkxwLvPJ6Y/s640/DSC_0008.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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For fabric I wanted something light and floaty and this navy Swiss dot cotton in my stash was perfect. I deliberately chose a solid colour as I wanted to accentuate the bust gathers. The fabric is very light and delicate so I used French seams throughout. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGXMxhMd7HErp76K6alj5yTVAsJrKvRlAebR8IgmC_tHzS-qLpHuZkjGmdqWWf3Wu29bLerRLsmDVUY2nj3TSFdyu1cdGo_oteHz3n_LtqQ2oTLvmOErEg6h27P5CmXbpWSxmUINln5c_C/s1600/DSC_0101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1041" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGXMxhMd7HErp76K6alj5yTVAsJrKvRlAebR8IgmC_tHzS-qLpHuZkjGmdqWWf3Wu29bLerRLsmDVUY2nj3TSFdyu1cdGo_oteHz3n_LtqQ2oTLvmOErEg6h27P5CmXbpWSxmUINln5c_C/s640/DSC_0101.jpg" width="416" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">The only shaping on the Malia top are the bust darts which are gathered underneath. This is a really pretty and unusual feature but I'm still undecided about whether I like it or not. The darts also sit a little too high on me which doesn't help! The jury's out...</span><br />
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The sizing wasn't too bad (I made a size 10), although I could probably have given myself a bit more room at the bust. The neckline and armholes are finished with self bias strips, which fit <i>exactly</i>. This doesn't leave any room for error, so next time I'll be adding a couple of centimetres to both these pieces. Other than omitting the hem seam allowance I made no changes to the pattern, so overall it was a very quick and easy top to sew.</div>
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I'll definitely be looking out for future editions of <i>La Maison Victor</i> as the patterns are easy to work with and the designs very wearable. The magazine should be available in WH Smiths and major supermarkets from this week or can be ordered online from this <b><a href="http://www.julijasshop.be/website/index.php?ProductCategory=6267889&Index=1&sid=97ku4m8tn00k4fgfqje4s2dli4&Lng=en">site</a></b> along with fabric kits for each project. </div>
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That's it from me, in the meantime don't forget to check out the other UK participants blogging their projects this week:<br />
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5th July Katie at <b><a href="http://whatkatiesews.net/la-maison-victor-dolores-skirt/">What Katie Sews</a></b><br />
6th July Clare-Louise at <b><a href="http://thethriftystitcher.co.uk/la-maison-victor-launches-in-uk-world-blog-tour-day-2/">The Thrifty Stitcher</a></b><br />
8th July Laura at <b><a href="http://www.thepetitepassions.com/">The Petite Passions</a></b><br />
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<i>A copy of La Maison Victor was given to me free of charge to review. All views my own. </i><br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-33405466804963269782017-06-27T11:02:00.000+01:002017-06-27T21:02:34.954+01:00Quest for the ultimate sleeveless top pattern <div style="text-align: justify;">
Tank, shell, singlet, cami - there seem to be many different descriptions, but what I'm essentially talking about here is a simple, sleeveless top made from woven fabric. With such a straight forward design it's all about getting an excellent fit - and once you've nailed the fit, this kind of top really will become a wardrobe workhorse.<br />
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Easier said than done though! I can't tell you how much time I've wasted recently sewing up toile after toile in the hope of finding the perfect pattern. This week I came as close as I was ever going to get, so I'm going to formally adopt the pattern I used as my go-to sleeveless top!<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4nNeFl55n26pA7CWqJGqCuzJ5OWZJdzblkn2GSi49xHCoLw8QpcEOgJTWk730yKtLNSIt20R-mRhb3XbYulOZ2oe15RHqCEgF43mHAWCnxnMrgAAe-5yPM6i5BVgap8jFoYv66enq9fA/s1600/DSC_0085.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1055" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja4nNeFl55n26pA7CWqJGqCuzJ5OWZJdzblkn2GSi49xHCoLw8QpcEOgJTWk730yKtLNSIt20R-mRhb3XbYulOZ2oe15RHqCEgF43mHAWCnxnMrgAAe-5yPM6i5BVgap8jFoYv66enq9fA/s640/DSC_0085.jpg" width="422" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Apologies for the chopped off head - I looked like a lunatic in Every. Single. Photo</span></td></tr>
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The pattern in question is the Sleeveless Shell Top from the GBSB <i><b><a href="https://www.amazon.co.uk/Great-British-Sewing-Bee-Fashion/dp/1849495459/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1425547008&sr=8-1&keywords=fashion+with+fabric">Fashion with Fabric</a></b></i> book (reviewed <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2015/03/fashion-with-fabric-book-review.html">here</a></b>). Now I'll freely admit I'm rubbish at utilising patterns from sewing books, and would never have even considered this pattern if I hadn't seen <b><a href="https://beassewingadventures.wordpress.com/">Bea</a></b> rocking a gorgeous version recently. So thank you Bea!<br />
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I made a straight size 12 and the fit is just what I wanted - comfortable but still fitted enough to be worn loose. Plus the neckline curve and shoulder width both adhere to my fusspot standards, which is an added bonus! The only adjustment I made was to sew the side and centre back seams at 1cm instead of 1.5cm. I basted the seams together mid-way through sewing and they seemed a bit tight at the bust, hence the adjustment. One additional change I'll make next time will be to even out the curve of the hem. As drafted it has a high-low hem which you can see in the picture below. This gets a bit lost on my version and just looks like it's riding up at the front. Once I've lengthened the front to match the back I'll have my perfect pattern, yay!<br />
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The neckline and armholes are finished with a lovely neat all-in-one facing and a button closure. Now usually I'm completely flummoxed when it comes to turning an all-in-one facing through, but not this time. The method is very clearly explained in the instructions and I'll definitely be using it again, it's so clever! The top actually fits over my head buttoned up, so I'll be cutting the back piece on the fold next time and eliminating the centre back seam to make it an even quicker sew. <i>EDIT: As a wise commenter has just pointed out, if I cut the centre back piece on the fold I won't be able to use the all-in-one facing as it needs a back seam to turn through, duh! Thank you Anne for pointing that out! </i><br />
<i>EDIT AGAIN: It CAN be done without a centre back seam, hoorah! This <b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wlx93fYpFOY">excellent video</a></b> shows you how. Thanks Katie! </i><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyu1HtgDo0Amp5Xi9Iuv7N6AAWZfU0aAs-WY_0GWse9SjWTz0OtfBrv4XbYXSzsyD2hchmCMBlttkxtW-2XKXZu87dHUPyITs0NSHmWtZnjAVXUzay6GGz2KLAhX8YMOuGn4tqg2WEAjxz/s1600/DSC_0071.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="937" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyu1HtgDo0Amp5Xi9Iuv7N6AAWZfU0aAs-WY_0GWse9SjWTz0OtfBrv4XbYXSzsyD2hchmCMBlttkxtW-2XKXZu87dHUPyITs0NSHmWtZnjAVXUzay6GGz2KLAhX8YMOuGn4tqg2WEAjxz/s640/DSC_0071.jpg" width="374" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">All in one facing - back view</span></td></tr>
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The fabric is a John Kaldor poly viscose from <b><a href="http://www.remnantkings.co.uk/">Remnant Kings</a></b>, bought with a voucher I won during the #VPJuly Instagram challenge last year. It has a very nice drape and because of the high poly content, it barely needs ironing, hoorah!<br />
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Now that I've pinned down the perfect pattern I'm going to make several of these tops for the summer, probably in plain colours. They're so light and cool to wear. What's your favourite sleeveless top pattern? And more importantly, how many have you made?! x<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com65tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-46430156122611273862017-06-13T08:00:00.000+01:002017-06-13T08:00:15.574+01:00Liberty quilt question<div style="text-align: justify;">
Just a quick post today to announce that I've<i> finally</i> finished the top for my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2016/06/musings-on-quilts.html">Liberty quilt</a></b>. My god it was gruelling, it seemed to take forever! </div>
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The quilt won't actually be needed until the autumn, which gives me time to do a spot of research and brace myself for the next stage. All but one of the fabrics I used in the quilt top are Liberty Tana Lawn, which is noticeably lighter and finer than quilting cotton. My question is, do I need to add an additional layer of light cotton fabric (cotton muslin for instance) to the quilt top to provide extra strength and support? Or will it be OK once everything is quilted together? I've spent so long piecing it all together, I want to make sure the quilt has a good, long life! </div>
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I know there are some experienced quilters who read my blog - I'm just hoping they're reading this post! If any of you have quilted with Liberty lawn (or indeed any thin cotton lawn), I'd appreciate your advice. Thank you!</div>
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Now all I have to do is quilt the bloody thing... </div>
Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com40tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-37053918100663447122017-06-07T08:00:00.000+01:002017-06-07T08:00:22.120+01:00#2017makenine update<div style="text-align: justify;">
The #2017makenine Instagram initiative (or in my case <a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/01/2017makenine.html" style="font-weight: bold;">#2017makesix</a>...) is the only sewing challenge I've signed up for this year, and it seems to have gone to plan so far.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghAe6j_Q1Mp6rKk_p1h_YibcIpTgQf3VK7AgGfzTJdlRbOvIti9y0I9KmL25cpWa0vm7viPdjJVLPaQvRyF6XO9m6YDmhGR3KedMLZC3lk-9-dp5cX8Nn9gFf_q-emrrxQX_CIPBxWzJUt/s1600/image.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="640" data-original-width="640" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghAe6j_Q1Mp6rKk_p1h_YibcIpTgQf3VK7AgGfzTJdlRbOvIti9y0I9KmL25cpWa0vm7viPdjJVLPaQvRyF6XO9m6YDmhGR3KedMLZC3lk-9-dp5cX8Nn9gFf_q-emrrxQX_CIPBxWzJUt/s400/image.jpeg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Of the six patterns/fabrics I selected in January I've now completed four of them:</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/01/a-heather-dress-for-winter.html">Sew Over It Heather dress</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMze6sLfUT59-R2eGGew9vtyGzfJtwDK49uw4XNvN-PGXhamOAkP1OoYvvxZ1F95XyHUfsoMjMg1RXvCqSk9eRDJyFv6Wa0n2OcE-xanrfs9t_rlOP9fiAVbIzxFYiNfp7V4uGlyUXHgO/s1600/DSC_0597.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="786" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDMze6sLfUT59-R2eGGew9vtyGzfJtwDK49uw4XNvN-PGXhamOAkP1OoYvvxZ1F95XyHUfsoMjMg1RXvCqSk9eRDJyFv6Wa0n2OcE-xanrfs9t_rlOP9fiAVbIzxFYiNfp7V4uGlyUXHgO/s640/DSC_0597.jpg" width="314" /></a></div>
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Plus a bonus second version <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/03/another-heather-dress.html">here</a></b>!</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/01/the-sangria-dress-and-my-first-outing.html">Capital Chic Sangria dress</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIq-xPVRqZK-CdRdpQZFSnnvvu_4DaDWC3DvhkUlyCBW7yRQ49kpzWRDmoYw_O4v1XJ4WAll5WKxEg82ELDhPPEQxMfjHMk1chTjGJioBeKsEeuxLCfMvYvTcT9LXqFKCsZU_AyktZXr_a/s1600/DSC_0015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="829" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIq-xPVRqZK-CdRdpQZFSnnvvu_4DaDWC3DvhkUlyCBW7yRQ49kpzWRDmoYw_O4v1XJ4WAll5WKxEg82ELDhPPEQxMfjHMk1chTjGJioBeKsEeuxLCfMvYvTcT9LXqFKCsZU_AyktZXr_a/s640/DSC_0015.jpg" width="330" /></a></div>
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<b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/04/nautical-print-granville-shirt.html">Sewaholic Granville shirt</a></b></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiczsv3uLbOXAdka4VyDaBKxc7LXLWaW4lMrGHeI_h-TuacT57BmUloiuFO4b6-oSOtPQAYqhxgmXaL_hZZk24AzOD9Y4YcHSP6Ek80xBN0noykmxeHdxQAenwxm9rO1bohRM0OZBV4eBfQ/s1600/DSC_0206.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1183" data-original-width="1600" height="295" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiczsv3uLbOXAdka4VyDaBKxc7LXLWaW4lMrGHeI_h-TuacT57BmUloiuFO4b6-oSOtPQAYqhxgmXaL_hZZk24AzOD9Y4YcHSP6Ek80xBN0noykmxeHdxQAenwxm9rO1bohRM0OZBV4eBfQ/s400/DSC_0206.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This was a substitution for the Deer & Doe Melilot shirt, using the same fabric I'd already earmarked for the project.</div>
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<b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/05/new-look-fireworks-dress.html">New Look 6123 dress</a></b></div>
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Of the two remaining projects on my list, the <b><a href="https://www.craftsy.com/sewing/patterns/easy-short-sleeved-kimono-dress/106966">Pattern Runway Kimono Sleeved dress</a></b> is still waiting patiently to be sewn, but the <b><a href="https://www.dragonflyfabrics.co.uk/sewing-patterns/patterns-by-designer/grainline-studio/product-3313.php">Grainline Maritime shorts</a></b> have fallen by the wayside. This is because we're not having a beach holiday this year, and as that's when they'd get 90% of their wear, I couldn't really justify making another pair. There are a couple of other patterns that have sneaked into the queue though....</div>
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Last year, whilst wandering around the posh 'Village' area in Westfields Shopping Centre I came across this dress.<br />
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I really loved the design - a simple kimono shape with an integrated tie belt - but not the price tag. I can't remember where it was from (either Whistles or Max Mara I think) or the exact price, but it was definitely over £200. I knew I could make my own version. After a bit of online sleuthing, I soon had a copy of the <b><a href="https://www.sewdifferent.co.uk/tie-belt-dress-multisize-sewing-pattern/">Tie Belt Dress</a></b> pattern by Sew Different and two metres of <b><a href="http://sewoverit.co.uk/product/luxury-crepe-red/">red luxury crepe</a></b> from Sew Over It in my paws.<br />
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Yay! I have high hopes that I can replicate the 'Village' dress for a fraction of the cost.</div>
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And the final pattern to elbow its way into my sewing queue is the Closet Case Files <b><a href="https://store.closetcasepatterns.com/products/kalle-shirt-shirtdress-pattern">Kalle shirt and shirtdress</a>.</b> After eyeing up lots of denim shirts on Pinterest recently and then spotting Sallie's <a href="http://sallieoh.blogspot.co.uk/2017/05/indigo-days.html" style="font-weight: bold;">gorgeous shirtdress version</a>, I'm now desperate to add one to my summer wardrobe.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsWlfDCwRPbaypl73m6E8HsB9enwqjZ67NeywrgjK3f-XJf1Fz-Vag5_O88Hr-_kraQfRuVHDC37v1jjrfgp19DNTWWwjes3gazDSalRDSnspMeE83_7A9VswD2sakHs9GFBhSdx0Q4y_/s1600/kalle_l.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="853" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinsWlfDCwRPbaypl73m6E8HsB9enwqjZ67NeywrgjK3f-XJf1Fz-Vag5_O88Hr-_kraQfRuVHDC37v1jjrfgp19DNTWWwjes3gazDSalRDSnspMeE83_7A9VswD2sakHs9GFBhSdx0Q4y_/s1600/kalle_l.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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The looser fit is a departure for me, but I've been finding very fitted shirts heavy going in the warmer weather, so I think it's time for a change. I can't wait to get started!<br />
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That's it from me, how are you all getting on with your #2017makenine challenges?<br />
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<br />Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512115797894439080.post-37891655166592404212017-05-22T07:35:00.000+01:002017-05-22T07:35:47.585+01:00New Look Fireworks Dress<div style="text-align: justify;">
I've had a picture of this dress in my head for ages, ever since seeing Rosa's <b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BJ0vUpXDFH7/">beautiful floral dress</a></b> last summer. I really liked the wrap front bodice and the way the dress looked so casually chic. The wrap bodice was from New Look 6123 which is now out of print, but I was lucky enough to track a copy down on eBay. I also had the perfect fabric in mind - a firework print Liberty Tana lawn.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyUetW2wTpfg9LOBfdp4ekgjpoHR6zkzTJjVtqw6SRHPswo9Y2pJ5I61z4SnYV4CJZdjBnciDSc16w6usMqls8cCa8Gys9FShl9tDQsu3khgG83PKZX6O_j2PP3k_hN8ZZcXNuLH0oHQL/s1600/DSC_0138.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOyUetW2wTpfg9LOBfdp4ekgjpoHR6zkzTJjVtqw6SRHPswo9Y2pJ5I61z4SnYV4CJZdjBnciDSc16w6usMqls8cCa8Gys9FShl9tDQsu3khgG83PKZX6O_j2PP3k_hN8ZZcXNuLH0oHQL/s640/DSC_0138.jpg" width="598" /></a></div>
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The pattern has two different skirt options, both of which were a bit too formal for the kind of easy, summer dress I had in mind, so I substituted the skirt from another New Look pattern (6557) instead. The skirt is a half circle which I slimmed down by reducing the curve by 8cms and chopping 14cms off the midi length. The result is more of a quarter circle, not too full but still with a decent amount of swish. New Look patterns are generally a pretty good match for my body shape, but I still needed to make a few changes to get the fit I wanted.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg949swA3eZp8Obllu7hTeyCfgv5zsHm1_V6vk6bhvMoJeKfynIIkgnGeoE8JOlsUDKs8Mixo99qzr6zH9ZEOfaBujhv6jmrUIrMf4RWjvsRvT9nuAZEo6iaOMe0nD4BKp5e763YTIaCmTh/s1600/6123line.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg949swA3eZp8Obllu7hTeyCfgv5zsHm1_V6vk6bhvMoJeKfynIIkgnGeoE8JOlsUDKs8Mixo99qzr6zH9ZEOfaBujhv6jmrUIrMf4RWjvsRvT9nuAZEo6iaOMe0nD4BKp5e763YTIaCmTh/s400/6123line.jpg" width="278" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">My dress is View A with a quarter circle skirt</span></td></tr>
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This particular pattern is cut quite generously at the bust (possibly because of the wrap style) but <i>has very little ease</i> at the waist. I ended up cutting a 12 at the bust and shoulders, grading to a 14 at the waist and lengthened the bodice by 1.5cm. I also took a 2cm triangular shaped wedge from the centre back pieces as the back neckline noticeably gaped on my muslin. Next time I'll raise the height of the front neckline as it's currently a bit plunging!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVHOtX41T9Dq710sv0CSb0kFS6iQL_UK4mpb8wsNvxcw7_QWwaTQDsTPlqmKSOjxbsyco5iV-fcBaoIzWL82JntlVwwKFf75HxJa_61XeMjpLOHS6CbuSepaPEsenjUdAa0TzJ4IyKiC12/s1600/DSC_0135.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVHOtX41T9Dq710sv0CSb0kFS6iQL_UK4mpb8wsNvxcw7_QWwaTQDsTPlqmKSOjxbsyco5iV-fcBaoIzWL82JntlVwwKFf75HxJa_61XeMjpLOHS6CbuSepaPEsenjUdAa0TzJ4IyKiC12/s640/DSC_0135.jpg" width="492" /></a></div>
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Construction wise, this was a reasonably straight forward pattern to sew up, though not necessarily a quick one. The bodice has really pretty pleats and gathers on one side, which took me a couple of goes and quite a bit of unpicking to get exactly how I wanted. The skirt waistline also ended up a little larger than the bodice waistline so I added two tiny tucks, which are barely noticeable amidst all the fireworks. The cap sleeves are self faced, the same as the sleeves on my <b><a href="http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2017/05/tilly-and-buttons-etta-dress.html">Etta dress</a></b>, in this case they're finished with an overlocker rather than bias binding. Not as neat looking on the inside, but sooo much quicker! <br />
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I contacted Rosa before starting work on the dress as I was worried about the bias cut front edges stretching out of shape. Her advice was to staystitch as per the instructions and use a strong interfacing. I used <b><a href="https://englishcouture.co.uk/product/ecc91-washable-supersoft/">Washable Supersoft</a></b> from English Couture - a medium weight interfacing with a soft finish - and it didn't do <i>too</i> bad a job. It doesn't sit as flat as I'd like, so I think it must still have stretched a tiny bit during construction. I also reinforced the centre back edges with strips of interfacing to prevent the fabric puckering when I inserted the invisible zip. With hindsight, I wish I'd lined the skirt section as it's a bit transparent by itself, easily sorted by wearing a slip though.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOpK5UOAFLYLeViiwkxPgG-1IPDT4wTFREQBt7HJERsjs1d3HulQ5kBedhja6vS576PuheHoKBvKjVDF_sLvwiu_XcCQ-KJLfZISRniDCIEsJFPzw-DXxkhyXrV0V05FspsUIhzYN9XJ3/s1600/DSC_0108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJOpK5UOAFLYLeViiwkxPgG-1IPDT4wTFREQBt7HJERsjs1d3HulQ5kBedhja6vS576PuheHoKBvKjVDF_sLvwiu_XcCQ-KJLfZISRniDCIEsJFPzw-DXxkhyXrV0V05FspsUIhzYN9XJ3/s640/DSC_0108.jpg" width="346" /></a></div>
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The Liberty lawn I used is very lightweight and floaty, but I still think it's a good match for this pattern. The colours in the print are a really lovely combination and I like the fact that it doesn't look like a typical Liberty design. The fireworks look like some kind of exotic flowers, reminiscent of 1930s and possibly 1970s prints. This will be such a nice dress for summer - casual enough to wear at home with flip flops and easily glammed up when required. I'm so pleased with it.<br />
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As I mentioned earlier, New Look 6123 is now out of print, but if you like the look of a wrap front dress, I've managed to find a few other patterns for wovens that look promising. These are: <b><a href="http://sewoverit.co.uk/product/eve-dress-sewing-pattern/">Sew Over It Eve dress</a></b>, <b><a href="https://sewdirect.com/acatalog/Vogue-V9251.html">Vogue 9251</a></b>, <b><a href="https://weaverdee.com/products/v8784">Vogue 8784</a></b>, <b><a href="https://weaverdee.com/products/m6959">McCall's 6959</a></b> and <b><a href="https://weaverdee.com/products/b5898">Butterick 5898</a></b>. Or if you have any other pattern recommendations, please share them in the comments. x<br />
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Janehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06618367450900385828noreply@blogger.com32