Ahoy-hoy! Today I'll be talking about the
Doris Dress, the latest pattern release from
Sew Over It. The pattern has some gorgeous design details including short kimono sleeves, pleats to the front and back bodice, a panelled skirt and a low scooped neck. There are two dress lengths to choose from: a longer, below-the-knee length or a shorter version. The dress is semi-fitted and the waist can be accentuated with either a tie belt or a short, buttoned back belt. I tested the pattern for Sew Over It a few weeks ago and there's a lot to like about it!

I used one of my favourite stash fabrics to make it with - a royal blue dotted chambray from Robert Kaufman which was kindly gifted to me by
Florence last year. I've been waiting for just the right pattern to pair it with and the Doris dress seemed to fit the bill perfectly. It's the same fabric I used for my
second Pussy Bow Blouse but in a different colourway, so I knew it would be lovely to work with. The dots are quite subtle so you don't get the full Minnie Mouse effect and the brighter blue is a great colour for summer.
This particular chambray is easy to cut out, presses well and has just enough drape for this dress. I say just because the Doris pattern has a seven panelled, flippy skirt that benefits from a lightweight fabric with some drape to it. Rayons, silks and light lawns would work well but I'd steer clear of quilting cottons or anything too stiff. Luckily this chambray is quite soft, so just sneaked through the drape test by the skin of its teeth. The dress also requires six buttons down the front which is a good excuse to use up any vintage beauties you've been saving up. And, the centre front opening isn't functional so you don't even need to make buttonholes if you don't want to. I'm extremely lazy so this was a no brainer - I simply sewed my buttons directly through the bodice front, oh what joy!

Size-wise I made a size 10 of version 2 - the shorter version with the fixed back belt. It's worth noting that the short version really is quite short - I ending up lengthening the skirt by 1.5 inches and I'm titchy (5'2"). If I was intending to only wear this dress to the beach I wouldn't have bothered, but I have lots of other plans for it so needed a bit more coverage!
The only other fitting adjustment I made was a one inch FBA (Full Bust Adjustment). The overall fit is good - it isn't as roomy at the waist as I was expecting, which is probably down to my not-quite-size-10 waistline, so I didn't bother adding the back belt. The belt on version 2 isn't actually sewn in place until the end of the construction process, so you can wait to see how it fits before deciding.
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Back view without fixed back belt |
The dress closes with an invisible side zip, which is the only thing about the dress I dislike. Uurrgh don't get me started on side zips, I bloody hate the things. I had to put one in this version as I was testing the pattern, but I'd be very tempted to replace it with a centre back one next time. They're not actually any more difficult to install than a centred zip, I just personally find the process awkward. Yes, you get a lovely clean line down the back bodice, but I still don't think it's worth the sacrifice. And if you have any kind of chest they're a nightmare when it comes to actually getting the dress on and off! Luckily, the low scoop neck on this pattern makes it easier than most. This is just my own personal sewing gripe though - if side zips don't bring you out in hives, you're laughing.
EDIT: A couple of commenters have made some excellent points regarding side zips. Firstly if functional buttonholes are added to the front bodice this make it easier to get the dress on and off. Secondly, changing the zip to a centred back zip wouldn't work for version two with the fixed back belt. It would still work without a belt (like my version) or for version one, as the ties for the long belt are attached at the back pleats. Thanks !

Because there are quite a number of different techniques used in this pattern, it's classified as Intermediate which I would agree with. There's nothing too head scratchy though, so if you already have a few simple dresses under your belt and can insert a concealed zip you should be fine, I think it's a great pattern to really stretch your skills a bit further.
This dress will get a lot of wear this summer, the chambray gives it a definite casual look, but the design is elegant enough to make you feel pulled together. It's described as a day dress and that's exactly when I intend to wear it - it's a perfect dress for everyday wear!
If you like the look of the
Doris Dress then you're in luck, as I have one extra copy of the pattern to give away. To be in with a chance of winning it, simply leave a comment on this post (don't forget to include your email address if it's not linked to your Blogger profile). The giveaway is open worldwide and closes at midnight GMT on Friday 29th April. The winner will be chosen at random and I'll announce the winner here on my blog. Have a good week! x
The Doris Dress pattern was given to me free of charge for pattern testing. All views my own.