Thursday 14 April 2016

Clara Bow Blouse (without bow!)

This week I've been mostly working on the Clara Bow Blouse from Til The Sun Goes Down. The pattern is inspired by 1930's designs and includes some nice design details such as a topstitched yoke, double bust darts and a buttoned side fastening. It doesn't require much fabric either, so I decided to try out the sleeveless version using some green vintage chambray from my stash. 


First off, you'll notice that there isn't actually a bow on my version! The bow is simply a rectangle of fabric (or you can use a handkerchief if you prefer) tied through a buttonhole at the centre front. I quite liked the neat look of the unadorned yoke, so didn't bother adding a buttonhole. I may add a bow later if I get a sudden yearning, but for now it's bow-less.

The pattern is well drafted and the instructions on the whole are precise and easy to follow. The diagrams were particularly helpful when trying to work out a couple of trickier areas such as the yoke and the button placket. The yoke construction is clever, it's basically sewing a facing in reverse. 

This is the outside view of the front bodice
The right side of the yoke is stitched to the wrong side of the blouse, then flipped round to the right side and top stitched down - easy! Just make sure you pay careful attention to your right sides and wrong sides at this point as it can get confusing. It's also worth noting that the shoulder seams are sewn wrong sides together for a clean finish on the inside (the raw edges are enclosed by the yoke). 

The button placket at the side seam was another new-to-me technique and despite not being a fan of any kind of side opening, I quite like how it looks. 

Very awkward side view, but you get the general idea
Unfortunately my buttonhole foot was being a complete pain in the arse when I made this top and I had to abandon the idea of buttons altogether. Instead, I used snaps, which was an idea given to me by Christina at Gussets and Godets when we met up for a coffee and sewing chat recently. Yes, snaps aren't particularly vintage looking and some nice old buttons would probably have looked better, but they're so quick and easy to apply. I have one of those wrench tool things for applying them and the entire placket took about ten minutes from start to finish, I'm a convert!  


With regards to fit I should definitely have made a muslin as there are several things I'd do differently next time round. Size-wise I went by the finished garment measurements and cut a size 10, which was a tad optimistic! There's much less ease in the finished blouse than I was expecting. It's wearable, but a tight in the bust area, so next time I'll cut a size 12 with a full bust adjustment. I'll also lower the bust darts and lengthen the whole blouse as it's pretty short, even on me! 

It looks ok with jeans….


and I like how it looks underneath a cardigan….


But I'll mostly wear it with my Simplicity 2451 skirt (see picture at beginning of this post) - the two garments seem to work well together with the blouse untucked. And you get a double chambray hit! x








25 comments:

  1. i hadn't seen this pattern - it's really cute!

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    1. It is isn't it?! There are lots of other sleeve options too which I'm tempted to try. x

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  2. This is so cute! I love the side closures!!
    Frankie
    http://www.knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk/

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    1. That was one of the details that lured me in! x

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  3. what a wonderful versatile top, it looks gorgeous. I have such sewing envy at the moment!!

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  4. Love the top. The "reverse" facing is so clever. As I don't enjoy making buttonholes, I would do the snaps and then sew buttons on to cover the snap. Thanks for sharing. You inspire me to do more sewing!

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    1. It's very clever and so simple! Your button idea is brilliant, why didn't I think of that? Thank you! x

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  5. Oh, I adore it Jane! I'd never seen this pattern before either. It seems you are my sewing inspiration at the moment (thank you!) as this week I modified an existing pattern to make one of the vintage suntops you featured last post - the cutie with ties on the shoulders - & I'm super happy with the results. Now I want to make THIS one! Hmmmmm, it's supposed to be Autumn here. I SHOULD be looking at Winter gear...... :)

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    1. Thank you! I like the sound of your tie necked top, still haven't made my mind up which one to sew, maybe I'll make both! x

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  6. A very cute top and another one that hadn't seen this pattern before. I'm not sure I would go up to a size 12, the neckline and shoulders look they fit you perfectly and the FBA would increase where you need it on the size 10.

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    1. You're absolutely right Sharon, thanks for doing my thinking for me! x

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  7. It's a lovely top and I agree with Sharon, it fits well. I rather like the snap studs, could maybe even be hacked to make them a design feature on both sides.

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    1. Another good idea! Keep them coming! x

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  8. Such a cute top! Love the snaps!!! Double darts too, lovely!

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    1. Thank you for the snaps inspiration! x

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  9. It's lovely, beautiful colour on you. The poppers seem like a perfect solution to me, they look great, like it was meant to be.

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    1. Ah thank you, I'm glad they don't stand out like a sore thumb, which is what I was worried about! x

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  10. I used pearly poppas on a placket only last week on my daughters top. They were vintage ones but I was one short so I started looking for more on ebay on the off chance someone was getting rid of a packet but I found new ones by Prym at Tesco can you believe! If you needed to use poppas in the future on a vintage make they would look in keeping with adult blouse wear. I love that colour. I have pink chambray to use over the next few weeks. Jo x

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    1. I think I'm going to try pearly poppers on my next shirt dress, I'll see which ones look best, but definitely poppers rather than buttons! Pink chambray is next on my list too! x

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  11. I love this but I do think tying a little vintage handkerchief at the neckline is a super idea. I may have to try it as I have several handkerchiefs that I never use.

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    1. It does look lovely, the pattern designer was wearing one with her Clara Bow blouse at the Knitting and Stitching Show. I don't have any vintage hankies though, may have to go on the hunt! x

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  12. So cute! I bought this pattern a while ago and haven't got round to it yet - but you've reminded me. I don't think it's too short on you - it looks great.

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    1. Thanks so much, you should give it a go it's a great pattern! x

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  13. the side buttons make it really cute pattern

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