Monday 18 August 2014

A toned down bow blouse


I recently had a couple of precious mornings all to myself i.e. no children to entertain. This was my last chance for garment sewing until September, so I chose what I was going to make carefully. I wanted an easy top for my holiday, it had to have minimal fastenings (ideally no zips or buttons), a fitted shape and be made in a lightweight fabric for wearing at the beach.

I trawled through my pattern collection looking for inspiration, before finally settling for Simplicity 2154 - a sixties style bow blouse which I first made here.  Now, you may think something Miss Moneypenny would have in her wardrobe would be highly unsuitable for holiday wear, but stay with me. As a casual holiday top, there's a lot to be said against using this pattern: it's quite high necked, it looks formal, it has a ginormous bow and if you're not careful, you could end up looking a bit too 'Dog Toby'. Looking like 'Dog Toby' is an expression my mum and I use if something looks a bit too frilly and ridiculous around the neck, named after the fine, ruff-wearing dog from Punch and Judy. Moving on… you'll be relieved to know that I never intended to keep the original bow on the front. I might have a thing for bow blouses, but even I realised that a giant one would be just too Dog Toby for the beach!


Let's talk about what was right about the pattern instead. What drew me to it was the fact that I managed to get away with not inserting a side zip the first time I made it. It has bust darts and contour darts to the front and back, so although it's roomy, there's enough shaping there to still make it look fitted. It also has cute keyhole details at the front and back neckline which I thought would be a nice feature for holiday wear.  I wanted it to be a quick make, so as well as the bow, I also decided against including the collar - it would just be a simple shell top with added keyhole details. 

It sewed together like a dream but when I tried it on, the neck was too high. It wasn't unnaturally high, just not as casual as I'd hoped. I decided to lower the front neckline and have the front fasten with a thin bias binding bow - I'd still get a bit of bow blouse action, just not of the Mrs Slocombe variety. I lowered the front neckline edge by about an inch and drew a curve to join it up with the rest of the neckline. Because the neckline is finished with self bias binding, I simply cut out double the amount of neck binding and let the remainder hang loose from the centre front edges. This extra neck binding became my bow. Simple!



Back detail: fastened at the neck with a  button and handworked thread loop
The fabric is a Japanese cotton lawn from the same selection at Abakhan that my lemon lawn came from. I was delighted to receive a gift voucher from Mr Will Abakhan himself as a thank you for inadvertently helping to shift copious amounts of lemon lawn fabric! The voucher burnt a hole in my pocket for all of five minutes before I blew the whole lot on….more cotton lawn! I couldn't resist, it's so soft and lightweight, absolutely perfect for hot weather clothing. I chose two metres of a gorgeous red and turquoise rose print, and as the blouse only requires a front piece, a back piece and a few strips of bias binding, I still have nearly 1.5 metres left to make a dress with next year. Woohoo! I didn't bother underlining it this time as I deliberately wanted it to be as light as possible.


It took me one morning to cut out and sew the blouse together, and another to fiddle with the neckline, so it was still a quick, easy make. It teams up really well with my vast collection of red and denim skirts, shorts and capri trousers too, hoorah! Thank you for the generous gift voucher Abakhan - last minute holiday top sorted!  

I'd quite like to plan ahead next year and make a few more holiday tops or camisoles. I've got my eye on the new Silk Cami pattern from Sew Over It, which looks promising, plus there's some great inspiration in Katie's recent Camisole Crazy post, but if you know of any other suitable top patterns (preferably without zips or buttons) please share them in the comments. Happy Monday! x


24 comments:

  1. This is really cute, I love the "toned down" bow. I've just made the By Hand London Polly top, which I thought was great (and it's free!) Beware though, the neckline is pretty low (I raised it a couple of inches).

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    1. Polly top now on my list, good to know about low neck too, thanks! x

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  2. How nice of Abakhan to send you a voucher. I love what you did with the bow here. I can definitely see you in a Polly top!

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    1. Thanks Katie, the more I look at the Polly top, the more I think I'll make one! X

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  3. So cute! I love that top pattern.

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  4. It's lovely Jane. It's funny how the fabric is so distinctive, I could tell immediately looking at it that it was japanese!

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  5. Lovely fabric Jane- and works so well with a simpler line top. - Just made McCalls 6929 - a little boxy but soon shaped sides in and have to customised a cami top - on 2nd so a good contender for OWOP! have a lovely hols :)

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  6. So pretty! And I think I recognize those Kwik Sew shorts. Love the outfit!

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    1. Ah yes, those Kwik Sew shorts go with everything! x

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  7. The Sewaholic Belcarra blouse is quickly turning into a staple for me. I just cut out my third one last night.

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  8. I love it, really pretty and it goes really well with those shorts too

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  9. I really liked the original blouse and made one up, which is apparently too small now... but I absolutely love your version! I want one just like this!

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    1. Oh thank you! Yes, I love my original one with the giant bow, I wear it tons! x

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  10. This is a really nice renovation of a pattern I just bought---was a bit worried about the bow myself, but you have solved this beautifully. You chose gorgeous fabric!

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  11. This is soooooo cute! Love the toned-down bow!

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  12. I love the colours in that blouse, it looks so pretty! I've made three versions of New Look 6808 and not put a zip in any of them.

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    1. I think I used to have that pattern, but gave it away in a swap, doh! It's SSOOO satisfying not having to insert a zip isn't it?! x

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  13. Oh, Jane! This is such a gorgeous blouse and the fabric is so pretty! I personally love the Sorbetto as it doesn't need a zip and you can make it up in so many ways.

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  14. Belcarra for the days when you need a bit of a sleeve. I've made one in a knit. Even quicker to sew and hem

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  15. Great holiday top! Love the fabric!
    Frankie
    Www.knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk

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  16. I love that print and the pattern you chose for it - it has a lovely style that is both vintage and freshly modern. the cotton lawn looks like it would be so light and cool to wear in summer too. nice make!

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  17. Very pretty! And I love everything about that fabric, the colors and the print are exceptional together. I never thought to change out the bows on blouses, brilliant idea to avoid "Dog Toby". :-D

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  18. Lovely print! I have made up the silk cami from Sew Over It, alas cut it a size too small so will have to try again. Having said that the fit is lovely and no obvious signs of gaping etc. (despite the sizing error) which is a plus given the lack of darts / zip / buttons!

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