Simplicity 4238 strikes again

This is the fifth version of my favourite vintage pattern (Simplicity 4238) from 1953. It was my chosen pattern for the One Week, One Pattern (OWOP) challenge last year and I'm still not bored of it! There isn't much to add to the construction of this blouse that hasn't been said before as I've got it down to a fine art now! It's a classic, notched collar style with a great 1950's shape, which is down to the cleverly positioned darts and tucks (12 in all). The only pattern change I made was to lower the bust darts by about an inch. 

Let's talk about the fabric instead. I bought this goy-jus double gauze from dangerous-on-the-purse Etsy shop Miss Matatabi last year. Tragically, it's now sold out so I can't give you the link, but what I can tell you is that it's a mid-green polka dot double gauze with a secret lurking on the inside….a gingham reverse side yee-ha! 

Double gauze is a very soft fabric to work with and because of this, the blouse has a more casual feel than some of the others I've made. It probably wasn't the most sensible choice for this pattern as I think a bit of crispness is needed around the collar area. It turned out fine though and it's very wearable so I'm happy. 

Happy!

I didn't use interfacing as double gauze already consists of two layers. This wasn't a problem with the collar, but it was a problem with the buttonhole area. My buttonhole foot was playing up badly (surprise, surprise), so I had the horror of unpicking three half finished buttonholes. Luckily the button band is double thickness and the buttonholes were quite small as I used twitchy buttons, but it still took its toll on the fabric. Therefore my only advice for working with double gauze would be to interface any areas that need a bit of support. Oh yes, and use a fine needle too.

I used self fabric binding on the armholes which is a nice contrast to the internal gingham. In fact I love all the contrasts on the inside! The lightness of the double gauze makes this a fab little addition to my summer wardrobe. I think it will also be good to take on holiday - I can see it pairing up well with my sailor shorts! 

Yet again I seem to have accidentally added another finished item to this year's Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge. I promise I'll get round to sewing up my actual pledged pattern one of these days. Happy Friday. x

Lady Skater - Japanese style

I made this Lady Skater dress at Christmas, but totally forgot to blog about it until I saw Jenny's gorgeous top made from the same fabric recently. As it happens, the timing is pretty fortuitous, as it's much more of a spring dress than a winter one.

The fabric I used is the most beautiful double-layered, polka dot double knit (try saying that when you've had a few!) It's from Etsy shop Miss Matatabi. The two layers are fused together at regular intervals like double gauze and it does actually feel a bit like a knit version of double gauze: very soft to the touch and super cosy. I must point out that Miss Matatabi is the most dangerous fabric shop in the world! I clicked over there just now to get a link for the fabric and saw this - an Aran-look knit fabric!! How could I possibly resist?! Answer: I couldn't, so that will be winging its way over to me from Japan soon. 

Anyway, back to the dress… I did my usual bad trick of changing bits of the pattern in order to make them fit onto the fabric available. Luckily for me, knit fabric is very forgiving! The changes I made that were different from my last version were as follows:

-  Cut a size 4 all over (last time I cut a size 5 bodice and size 4 skirt)

-  Reduced width of shoulders slightly 

-  Shortened bodice by 1 inch

-  Took 3 ½ inches from the bottom skirt curve in order to fit onto the fabric

-  Cut sleeves as a lengthened version of the cap sleeve

I was happy with the fit of my first version, but actually the changes I made this time have resulted in a much better fit all round. I'm especially pleased with the shoulders as they were definitely a bit wide. Reducing the curve of the skirt has made it more of a quarter circle than a half circle which I also prefer.

It was super easy to construct - I sewed the whole thing on my overlocker and used a double needle for the neck and sleeve bands and the hem. 

The fabric is reversible so I felt obliged to try and show off the contrast somewhere on the dress. I went with contrasting neckband and sleeve bands. But… with hindsight, I wish I hadn't made the neckband contrasting as it does give a bit of a juvenile feel. It's annoying, but not enough to make me stop wearing it!

Contrast neckband and sleeve bands

View from the inside showing the reversible fabric

What I like about this pattern is that there's a separate bodice and skirt, so the finished dress looks rather like a neat, fitted Emery or Peony dress. The added bonus is that the lack of darts and the fact that it's made from knit fabric means you can whip this beauty up in no time. Even though it's made from a knit fabric, it's actually quite light and swishy to wear, so it's going to get a second lease of life as a spring dress!  Happy Tuesday. x

Sewing out of season

I don't know about you, but when the weather turns cold I tend to do two things on the wardrobe front. Firstly I sew a few functional, knit garments. Then I make a trip to Uniqlo and stock up on merino wool sweaters and cardigans. This fills any gaps that might have occurred after my ruthless autumn wardrobe culling, and I can finally feel warm again. Job done. As I've mentioned before though, I find blogging about functional clothing deeply boring and try not to do it too often. I only blogged about the White Russian sweatshirt because it was a new-to-me pattern. 

It gets to the point when you realise enough is enough. I've had my fill of cold weather sewing - I want to sew pretty tops and skirts, and work with lovely cottons and linens rather than knits. I want to make button up sleeveless tops and shirt dresses. So that's what I'm going to do. It may be a while before any of them actually get worn, but who cares?! Here's what's going to be on my sewing list over the next few weeks:

I've always wanted to try and draft my own version of the 1950's inspired shoulder tie dress that Casey made a few years ago.  I LOVE that particular shoulder detail and it will be a good opportunity to work with my bodice and skirt blocks. The shoulder ties are similar to the ones on this vintage pattern.

If you're interested in making a 1950's style sundress yourself, her excellent tutorials can be found here (part one) and here (part two).  I think I have just enough of the pretty Japanese lawn left over from my toned down bow blouse to make a dress.

Ever since pledging to make just the one pattern for the Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge, I've suddenly got a burning desire to sew with vintage patterns. Talk about contrary! 

So as well as the vintage halter neck I pledged to make, I have plans to make another Simplicity 4238 using my double-sided double gauze (now there's a mouthful!) that I talked about here.

My navy gingham version is about to die on me and I need at least four versions in constant rotation through the summer or I start panicking! What can I say? I love that pattern so much!

And finally I'd like to get on with a spring shirtdress using my lovely Hemingway Designs fabric.

I have all these ideas racing around in my head and the fabric to make them with so I've decided to pull myself out of my sewing rut and just go for it. Can't wait, can't wait, can't WAIT! x

Fabric and Shoes

Aha, that got your attention didn't it?! Luckily for you, this post is all about fabric and shoes as I'll be waxing lyrical about my recent purchases in both camps. First I'd like to draw your attention to my new fabric, the result of a recent splurge in Miss Matatabi. I've been eyeing up the beautiful Japanese fabrics in this Etsy shop for a while without succumbing. But on my most recent visit, I couldn't resist - the fabrics were just so lovely I had to buy some before I burst.

To the casual observer, this polka dot double gauze is pleasant enough, but nothing out of the ordinary - until you see the other side!!!

This could have done with a press - sorry

YES!!! Polka dots and gingham, all on the same piece of reversible fabric, how amazing is that!! This is destined to become a fitted button-up shirt for next year and is crying out to be made with contrast button bands and collar.

Next up is a double knit, but not a double knit as we know it. No, this fabric is a knit version of double gauze i.e. two layers of fabric fused together at regular intervals to create one super-cosy layer! This is another reversible fabric, so I can have a bit of fun thinking of contrasting bits for the reverse side. I'm thinking of another Lady Skater dress for the winter, after seeing Tasha's gorgeous polka dot one. 

Last up is a metre of fabric I picked up in the sale section. It's a cotton/linen mix with a tulip design, which just happens to be my favourite flower! The fabric is reminiscent of vintage prints, whilst still retaining a Japanese feel, I love it.  I'm not sure what to make with this though - any ideas?  I'm ssooo pleased with my new Japanese fabrics. I have to also say that the customer service at Miss Matatabi was excellent - the fabrics were dispatched from Japan the same day I ordered them and arrived within a week. Well worth a visit if you're feeling flush. 

Now for the shoe bit, specifically my new red brogues. I do already own a pair of black brogues from Clarks that are super comfortable, but not that exciting. Also, they lost their appeal on day one, when Jon likened them to something Michael Flatley would wear. Sadly, he had a point, and they've been known ever since as my Riverdance shoes. What I've been looking for are a pair of brogues with a bit more oomph, that didn't look quite so much like Irish dancing shoes.

I found them at Shoe Embassy - a London-based shoe company I recently discovered. They have shops in Spitalfields, Camden, Brick Lane and Greenwich Market.  Not living near any of those places, I ordered mine online, sight unseen, which is always a risk. I take a UK size 4.5 (my feet mysteriously went up half a size after having my youngest) and in fact a Clarks size 4.5 are a perfect fit. If in doubt, I always go up a size as I have wideish feet, so I ordered size 5. Be warned, these shoes come up large - clowns feet large in fact. So if you're between sizes my advice would definitely be to go down a size. I had to exchange them for a size 4, which was a hassle and an expense, but worth it in the end.

My shoes (Quarter Oxford brogue in red) are PERFECT. In fact they're so perfect I'm in danger of tripping up when I'm out in public as I spend the entire time looking at them. They have a very slight tapered heel (about 1") and a lovely rounded toe. They look fab with jeans and skirts and everywhere I go I get asked "oooh, where did you get your shoes?". If you like a chunkier, more masculine style of brogue, then they also do a range called Brick Lane, which I have my eye on… But for now, I'll stick with my Quarter Oxfords, they're exactly what I was after and I'm really pleased to have discovered such a great new company, especially one based in the UK.

Thanks for indulging me! x

Peaceful cooing Alma blouse

I've been wanting to try out the Sewaholic Alma blouse for a while, in particular, view B with its lovely Peter Pan collar.  I liked the idea of playing around with a border print, to see if I could create a contrast collar using different areas of the fabric. My fabric of choice was Peaceful Cooing in grey from M is for Make - the most beautiful double gauze border print fabric with a repeat pattern that gradually gets larger as it gets closer to the border. Idiot that I am, it was only once I started cutting the fabric that I realised the pattern was actually little white doves. Duh, the clue's in the name, Peaceful Cooing! I thought they were a mixture of cotton wool and flowers. Ahem.

Anyway, this was my first attempt at working with a border print and after lots of draping myself in front of the mirror, I decided that the smaller pattern would make up the main area of the blouse and sleeves, with the larger border print finishing at the hem and repeated in the collar. I must admit, I really like the result. Border prints often run in the opposite direction to the selvedge, which means you have to cut the fabric against the grain. You probably end up needing more fabric than usual, but for something special I think it's worth it. The fabric is already double thickness, so I didn't bother with interfacing the collar and facings. This worked well, giving a bit of structure to the collar but still retaining a nice drape.

The only change I made to the pattern was the length of the sleeves. It's a fact that my arms are ridiculously short (I'm talking T-Rex short!), and the three quarter length sleeves really didn't do me any favours. I also felt like they made the blouse look a bit like an artist's smock, which is all very well if that's what you're after, but I wasn't. I shortened them by about five inches which now makes them far more cardigan friendly in the colder weather, always a bonus! 

The pattern was absolutely perfect. In theory, I should steer clear of Sewaholic patterns - they're designed for pear-shaped women and I'm the complete opposite. However, they're so well drafted and designed, that I still managed to get a good fit just by gradually grading sizes at the bust, waist and hips. The measurements changed but the overall shape and design of the pattern remained, which I found very impressive. I cut a size 10 at the bust, grading down to an 8 at the waist, and a 4 at the hips as I wanted the blouse to be quite fitted. I'm thrilled with the result and can see this being worn a lot. I was worried that the border print would get lost if it was tucked in, but you can still see it, even when it's tucked into a Ginger skirt. 

The only thing I didn't like about making this blouse was inserting the invisible side zip. They're right up there with hooks and eyes as my sewing arch enemies. I'm pondering whether to make my next one in a knit fabric, which will eliminate the need for a zip?  Or a long, central back zip instead? What do you think? One thing's for sure, there will definitely be more than one version of this blouse in my wardrobe before the year is out. x

Autumn sewing

For me, autumn is even more of a new start than January. There's a definite change in climate and it's the start of a brand, spanking new season. I love sewing for different seasons and I'm looking forward to working with different weights of fabric, longer sleeves, new styles etc. The downside is that I've also got to fit in lots of craft fair sewing as I've committed to three Xmas fairs, two of which are enormous. So my autumnal sewing list is realistically an autumn AND winter list. Here goes….

Abbey coat

Top of the list and something I've been keen to get my teeth into all summer. My fabric and lining are cut and I've prepped the front coat piece to start working on my bound buttonholes.  As soon as school begins next week it's all systems go.

Alma blouse

I'm planning on using this beautiful, grey double gauze fabric from Misformake. 

I've sewn with double gauze before, here and here and really like the texture.  Plus it's a magic fabric, it keeps you cool in summer and cosy in winter. I think it will be a perfect match for the Alma blouse. If I get the fit right, I may try a long sleeved version too, but in a less expensive fabric, long sleeves demand a ton of fabric and double gauze isn't a cheap option!

A skirt (or two)

I've been mightily swayed by all the lovely Kelly skirts popping up on blogs recently, but also have my eye on this one seam skirt pattern. 

I bought the pattern after seeing Kestrel Finds and Make's cord version and am sorely tempted by this red polka dot cord from Dragonfly Fabrics.  

It's expensive though, which is why I'm thinking a skirt. I'll have to shorten it by about a foot, so could probably get away with just buying one metre.

Dress fest

On the other hand, if I do well at my craft fairs, maybe I could stretch to a couple of metres of it... In which case, it would be perfect for version A of this cute as a button dress pattern, gifted to me by Debi. 

I'm also swayed by the fact that the girl in view A looks like me too…

And finally, I'd like to sew something with a knit fabric, but something a bit more casual than my red Joan dress this time. Maybe this simple, classic dress pattern which Casey kindly sent me? 

That's my list and it should keep me out of trouble for a few months!  Any more autumnal sewing plans out there?  As you know, I love stealing being inspired by other people's plans, so tell me, tell me! x

Finished Parfait

Sewing-wise I’ve been going a bit mad on separates recently, which is all well and good, but sometimes, especially when the sun comes out, nothing fits the bill quite like a sundress.  When it’s hot - and it has been hot in London recently, despite the depressing downpour today - a dress is just so comfortable, no tucking in required.

I don’t actually own a proper, strappy sundress -  a couple of shirt dresses and wrap dresses, but nothing that screams ‘wear me on the beach’.  I decided to make the Colette Patterns Parfait to take on holiday in a few week’s time. Sadly my sewing time will be drastically reduced over the next few weeks, due to the small matter of having my children at home with me every day! So I just about finished it before the school holidays started.  I’m glad I did, as I’ve been able to wear it in the London sun.  It’s SSOOO lovely and cool to wear and such a comfortable shape. 

I chose a silvery grey Japanese double gauze fabric which I got from Fabric Tales during a splurge at the end of last year. I’m glad I waited to use it for this dress as it’s just perfect.  I’ve sewn with double gauze before, and it really does have magical properties: it’s warm and cosy when it’s cold and light and cool when it’s hot.  I also love the print of the fabric – a tree print with random animals scattered around.  Here's a tip for when your children are bored: get them to find all the animals on mummy’s dress!  So far they’ve found a crow, a donkey, a stag, a fox and a rat (!)

I was pretty relieved with the way the fabric looked once it was cut out and sewn together.  There wasn’t enough fabric to have a go at matching the pattern (plus I wouldn’t really know where to start).  I like the donkey walking across the middle of the skirt, I’m not so keen on the rat on my right boob….

Apart from the Crepe dress which was a bit of a wild card when it came to fitting, I seem to be pretty much a standard size 8 for Colette Patterns.  The Parfait was no exception, although I did decide to ride by the seat of my pants and not make a muslin.  Fitting the bodice as you go along is actually part of the instructions, and I only needed to take it in a tiny bit at the sides, otherwise it’s a good fit.  The pattern itself was the usual high standard you'd expect from Colette Patterns: straight forward instructions with all the stages making sense!

The Parfait has some lovely details: a midriffed bodice, gathered bust and buttoned shoulder straps.  I didn’t add the gathered pockets as I thought they’d get a little lost amongst all the wildlife.  The only thing I didn’t like about making this dress was the invisible side zip.  It’s a personal gripe – I just find side zips in a dress a pain to put in, especially when it’s got to zip over a midriff section which invariably consists of a couple of layers plus interfacing.  I much prefer putting zips in centrally, but that’s just me.

Having now worn the dress two days running, I can confirm it’s a winner.  The panelled skirt and midriff are very flattering and the cut of the bodice and straps cleverly conceal your bra straps – a big bonus in my book.  I really like the shape and design of the dress – it’s comfortable and roomy enough to run around after the kids in, yet fitted enough so you still feel like you’re making an effort.  I can’t wait to wear it on holiday now. x

Rabbit blouse

This 1930's pattern (Simplicity 2844) was the very first vintage pattern I acquired and it’s only the second vintage pattern I’ve made.  I won it on Debi’s giveaway and have been wittering on about sewing it for months - I kept being tempted away from the straight and narrow by all those pesky sewalongs.  Now they’re all finished, I’ve finally got the time to sit down and concentrate on it - and what a pleasure it’s been…

The front cover doesn’t do the blouse justice.  

It looks like a pretty plain piece of “sports casual” wear, but don’t be deceived by appearances, it has some delightful details which I discovered as I was sewing it.  I made a muslin first and only had to make two changes:  I extended the length of the tucks at the front to make it more fitted under the bust and took 1cm out of the back width. 

Here it is from the back

The gathered shoulders and top stitched yoke were a doddle to sew after my swing dress

The one area where I wasn’t faithful to the pattern was with the buttonholes. If I was being a good seamstress, (instead of a lazy, slapdash one) I’d have made bound buttonholes to give it that perfect period touch. Buttonholes aren’t my favourite thing at the best of times, and bound ones look so time consuming that I guiltily just made normal ones.  I finished the blouse with some vintage flower buttons from my stash.

The instructions were a delight – lovely clear steps accompanied by little illustrations. 

They were much easier to understand than some modern day patterns, even with unprinted pattern pieces.  Ah yes, unprinted pattern pieces….  when I first opened the pattern I thought, in my naivety, there had been a printing error i.e. they’d forgotten to print any writing on them.  Duh, all the relevant circles, grainlines etc are punched onto the pieces and you then work out what’s what from the instructions.  It sounds complicated but it really isn’t, it’s actually a very efficient way of printing a pattern.

Fabric-wise I used a beautiful double gauze I treated myself to before Christmas from this Japanese website. As soon as I saw it, I knew exactly what I was going to make with it because the pattern looks so 1930’s.  The print is actually little rabbits, but you can’t really make them out unless you’re close up.  

Inside view

Double gauze is a strange fabric.  It’s basically two layers of gauze held together by a grid of tiny stitches.  This particular double gauze is reversible, so the other side of the fabric looks like a negative, which I quite like.  It’s a lovely texture, somewhere between brushed cotton and linen and the drape is nice and heavy.  

A perfect match with my 1940's trousers

I really love this blouse, it’s the sort of thing I’d have jumped on if I’d seen it in a shop in the olden days (before I started sewing).  I’m very tempted to make another one immediately just because it’s so me.  I’m thinking of a greeny/blue voile with white buttons...

Thank you so much Debi for your generosity in giving away this beautiful pattern.  x