Lady Skater - Japanese style

I made this Lady Skater dress at Christmas, but totally forgot to blog about it until I saw Jenny's gorgeous top made from the same fabric recently. As it happens, the timing is pretty fortuitous, as it's much more of a spring dress than a winter one.

The fabric I used is the most beautiful double-layered, polka dot double knit (try saying that when you've had a few!) It's from Etsy shop Miss Matatabi. The two layers are fused together at regular intervals like double gauze and it does actually feel a bit like a knit version of double gauze: very soft to the touch and super cosy. I must point out that Miss Matatabi is the most dangerous fabric shop in the world! I clicked over there just now to get a link for the fabric and saw this - an Aran-look knit fabric!! How could I possibly resist?! Answer: I couldn't, so that will be winging its way over to me from Japan soon. 

Anyway, back to the dress… I did my usual bad trick of changing bits of the pattern in order to make them fit onto the fabric available. Luckily for me, knit fabric is very forgiving! The changes I made that were different from my last version were as follows:

-  Cut a size 4 all over (last time I cut a size 5 bodice and size 4 skirt)

-  Reduced width of shoulders slightly 

-  Shortened bodice by 1 inch

-  Took 3 ½ inches from the bottom skirt curve in order to fit onto the fabric

-  Cut sleeves as a lengthened version of the cap sleeve

I was happy with the fit of my first version, but actually the changes I made this time have resulted in a much better fit all round. I'm especially pleased with the shoulders as they were definitely a bit wide. Reducing the curve of the skirt has made it more of a quarter circle than a half circle which I also prefer.

It was super easy to construct - I sewed the whole thing on my overlocker and used a double needle for the neck and sleeve bands and the hem. 

The fabric is reversible so I felt obliged to try and show off the contrast somewhere on the dress. I went with contrasting neckband and sleeve bands. But… with hindsight, I wish I hadn't made the neckband contrasting as it does give a bit of a juvenile feel. It's annoying, but not enough to make me stop wearing it!

Contrast neckband and sleeve bands

View from the inside showing the reversible fabric

What I like about this pattern is that there's a separate bodice and skirt, so the finished dress looks rather like a neat, fitted Emery or Peony dress. The added bonus is that the lack of darts and the fact that it's made from knit fabric means you can whip this beauty up in no time. Even though it's made from a knit fabric, it's actually quite light and swishy to wear, so it's going to get a second lease of life as a spring dress!  Happy Tuesday. x

Fabric and Shoes

Aha, that got your attention didn't it?! Luckily for you, this post is all about fabric and shoes as I'll be waxing lyrical about my recent purchases in both camps. First I'd like to draw your attention to my new fabric, the result of a recent splurge in Miss Matatabi. I've been eyeing up the beautiful Japanese fabrics in this Etsy shop for a while without succumbing. But on my most recent visit, I couldn't resist - the fabrics were just so lovely I had to buy some before I burst.

To the casual observer, this polka dot double gauze is pleasant enough, but nothing out of the ordinary - until you see the other side!!!

This could have done with a press - sorry

YES!!! Polka dots and gingham, all on the same piece of reversible fabric, how amazing is that!! This is destined to become a fitted button-up shirt for next year and is crying out to be made with contrast button bands and collar.

Next up is a double knit, but not a double knit as we know it. No, this fabric is a knit version of double gauze i.e. two layers of fabric fused together at regular intervals to create one super-cosy layer! This is another reversible fabric, so I can have a bit of fun thinking of contrasting bits for the reverse side. I'm thinking of another Lady Skater dress for the winter, after seeing Tasha's gorgeous polka dot one. 

Last up is a metre of fabric I picked up in the sale section. It's a cotton/linen mix with a tulip design, which just happens to be my favourite flower! The fabric is reminiscent of vintage prints, whilst still retaining a Japanese feel, I love it.  I'm not sure what to make with this though - any ideas?  I'm ssooo pleased with my new Japanese fabrics. I have to also say that the customer service at Miss Matatabi was excellent - the fabrics were dispatched from Japan the same day I ordered them and arrived within a week. Well worth a visit if you're feeling flush. 

Now for the shoe bit, specifically my new red brogues. I do already own a pair of black brogues from Clarks that are super comfortable, but not that exciting. Also, they lost their appeal on day one, when Jon likened them to something Michael Flatley would wear. Sadly, he had a point, and they've been known ever since as my Riverdance shoes. What I've been looking for are a pair of brogues with a bit more oomph, that didn't look quite so much like Irish dancing shoes.

I found them at Shoe Embassy - a London-based shoe company I recently discovered. They have shops in Spitalfields, Camden, Brick Lane and Greenwich Market.  Not living near any of those places, I ordered mine online, sight unseen, which is always a risk. I take a UK size 4.5 (my feet mysteriously went up half a size after having my youngest) and in fact a Clarks size 4.5 are a perfect fit. If in doubt, I always go up a size as I have wideish feet, so I ordered size 5. Be warned, these shoes come up large - clowns feet large in fact. So if you're between sizes my advice would definitely be to go down a size. I had to exchange them for a size 4, which was a hassle and an expense, but worth it in the end.

My shoes (Quarter Oxford brogue in red) are PERFECT. In fact they're so perfect I'm in danger of tripping up when I'm out in public as I spend the entire time looking at them. They have a very slight tapered heel (about 1") and a lovely rounded toe. They look fab with jeans and skirts and everywhere I go I get asked "oooh, where did you get your shoes?". If you like a chunkier, more masculine style of brogue, then they also do a range called Brick Lane, which I have my eye on… But for now, I'll stick with my Quarter Oxfords, they're exactly what I was after and I'm really pleased to have discovered such a great new company, especially one based in the UK.

Thanks for indulging me! x

Back to basics

One thing I noticed when I did my recent wardrobe changeover (from summer to autumn) was a lack of basic, functional items. By this, I mean everyday pieces in solid, neutral colours that match up with the rest of my wardrobe. To most people, a neutral colour is white, cream or black, but to me it's navy blue....or red. I addressed this a few weeks ago when I made my first Mabel skirt in red and Ultimate Trousers in navy, both of which have been on almost constant rotation from the moment they were born. Yesterday, after a particularly successful flurry of sewing, I ticked off two more items. They're both neutral (well, navy) basics so should really be classified under BORING. However, I'm pretty delighted at how well they've turned out, so I'm subjecting you to them today I'm afraid.

First up is another Bronte top (my first one's here). This one is made with a lovely cotton and lycra jersey from Ditto Fabrics. I bought the fabric intending to make the long sleeved version, but failed to take into consideration how much fabric is needed for long sleeves. I only bought a metre (duh), which isn't nearly enough for long sleeves, however adventurous a cutter you are. I do like the short sleeved version though and the fabric's light enough to wear under a cardigan. As per last time, I cut a size 12 at the bust, grading to a 10 at the waist and hips, which gives a nice tight fit.

Next up is a navy Mabel Skirt, this time cut to the same length as the pencil skirt version which is a much better length for me (just on the knee). I used a scrap of the Bronte fabric for the inside waistband and even managed to sew it on the right way round this time. The double knit fabric for both of my Mabel skirts came from Calico Laine and it's a perfect weight for the pattern. This version seems a bit roomier than the first one (in a good way), but I'm not quite sure why. I did sew the whole skirt on the overlocker and wasn't particularly vigilant about my seam allowances, so maybe that's it? 

Anyway, the total time to make both garments - from cutting out to sewing the last hem - was about four hours. It would have been even quicker, but I was distracted by a shoe delivery and had to take time off to play with them. The Mabel skirt only took about 30 minutes sewing time, I kid you not! The Bronte top takes a little while longer as there's all the shoulder binding to negotiate, but it's still easily sewn up in a morning or afternoon.

I've lightened this photo quite a bit to show the shoulder detail

They work well as separates as evidenced above, and even look cute worn together.

Look - a navy knit dress!  (sort of)

These quick and easy basics patterns have rather taken my fancy at the moment. Don't worry, I'll get back to the dresses and shiny stuff soon enough. But whilst my attention is wandering, I might as well ask, what are your favourite basics patterns to sew? Happy Thursday. x

Little red Mabel skirt

Earlier this month, after a long summer of reduced stitching time, I was in need of a quick make to ease me back into autumn sewing. Alice from Backstitch contacted me at about the same time to see if I'd like to review a pattern from her shop. It seemed the perfect time to try out the Colette Patterns Mabel Skirt - a simple pull on skirt designed specifically for knit fabrics. Plus, Rachel from House of Pinheiro had described wearing the Mabel skirt as being like wearing pyjamas - how could I possibly resist?!

The Mabel pattern offers three design options: a mini skirt, a variation of the mini with a button placket and a pencil skirt with vent. I went for version one, the mini skirt, but lengthened it by 1.5 inches. As it turns out, it's still less of a skirt and more of a pelmet - it's very short on me and I'm titchy. So I'll be lengthening it considerably for my next attempt - probably to the same length as the pencil skirt version. There's a broad range of sizes from XS to 3XL - for reference I made a size M (US 8-10) and apart from adding a tiny bit of length, I made no changes to the pattern.

I used leftover red double knit from my Victoria Blazer for the main skirt fabric and a few scraps of thinner red jersey from my easy elastic waist skirt for the waistband lining. And before you ask, yes I did try the skirt and blazer on together - sadly I looked like some kind of Butlins red coat nightmare…. not a good look! Medium to heavy weight stable knits are recommended for this pattern and I think double knit is a great choice. I've had trouble with hems on knit dresses going a bit wavy in the past, but there's none of that nonsense with double knit as it's so sturdy. 

The pattern envelope claims that the Mabel skirt can be made in just an hour. This would have been an accurate description if I hadn't sewn the waistband on upside down. Grrr! Easily sorted though. The instructions are well written and easy to follow and the pattern was a very good choice for me to cut my teeth onto after my sewing-deprived summer. There are no fastenings, it's quite a forgiving fit (it's designed with negative ease so stretches into position if you've eaten too many pies) and even with the waistband debacle, I managed to whip it up in no time. Apart from a tiny bit of top stitching to secure the waistband and a hem sewn with a double needle, I sewed the whole skirt on my overlocker. As it's a knit pattern, a smaller ⅜" seam allowance is used throughout, which is helpful if you're using an overlocker and worth making a note of if you're not! I also liked one particular tip in the instructions telling you to trim ⅛" from the top edge of the waistband pieces to allow for "turn of cloth". This helps the shell fabric roll to the inside - it worked splendidly on my Mabel which is always satisfying!  

This first attempt was always meant to be a practice version but it's turned out so well I'm going to wear it until it falls apart. I have some navy blue double knit waiting in the wings for my next version. I'm well aware that almost everything I make is navy and red, but I want these Mabel skirts to be everyday basics to wear with tights in the colder months (I just got away with no tights today on this fine September day but I think that was a fluke). The way I see it, a red version and a navy version will match up with about 99% of my wardrobe. Hoorah! 

And Rachel was so right, wearing a Mabel skirt is exactly like wearing your PJ's! x

The Mabel pattern was given to me free of charge for review. All views my own.

Coco revealed

Have you seen Coco - the latest pattern release from Tilly and the Buttons? It's Tilly's third pattern but the first that's available printed and I was lucky enough to be a pattern tester, wahay! Let's talk about Coco.

Coco is a Breton-style top or dress, designed especially for knit fabrics with lots of style options. Top or dress? Three quarter length sleeves or full length? Traditional slashed neck or sixties style funnel neck? Oh the decisions. To test it, I decided to go for a plain necked top with full length sleeves.

The pattern is intended for stable knits fabrics such as double knit, interlock knit or ponte knit. I chose a red double knit from an eBay seller which is a nice quality, but a bit on the raspberry side of red for my liking. Despite this, it sews up perfectly and washes well. Yes, it's been washed many times already because it's hardly ever off my back. The pattern is sized from 1 to 8, for reference I'm generally a UK10-12 for tops and I made a size 3. It's very flattering and comfortable and a great fit - I didn't have to make any changes to the pattern at all. The fit around the waist and hips does a great job of accentuating your shape whilst still being comfortable enough to do a bit of hoola hooping in, if you so wish.

The top version of Coco only has three pattern pieces and it was super simple to put together.  The sleeves are constructed flat i.e. the sleeve head is attached to the underarm whilst it's flat, then sewn up the side seams and arm seams in one go. Easy! I sewed the main seams on my overlocker and used a double needle for the hems and a zigzag stitch for the neckline, so no fiddling with neckbands. Don't worry if you don't have an overlocker, you'll be able to whip this up on a regular machine in no time.

The weight of my double knit is quite thick and the top actually looks much better untucked. The side splits give it that ohh la la French look, especially when worn with unseasonal cropped jeans and wedges. I know, I know, it's freezing outside but I couldn't resist ('why are you wearing shorts?' my son asked me...) Tilly gives plenty of suggestions for adding your own individual touches to Coco. Naturally, I chose to add a row of nautical buttons to the shoulders, just because.

And finally, we come to the packaging and instructions. In a word (or a few words), the packaging is to die for. I'm easily won over by packaging and the design on the front has polka dots as a background for goodness sake, what's not to like?! The instructions are clear as a bell and come in a full colour instruction booklet with step by step photographs!! Yes, really! And if you still get stuck, Tilly has blog posts a-plenty on sewing with knits etc scheduled over the next few weeks.

I think the Coco pattern is a really important new kid on the block. It's an excellent introductory pattern for newbie sewists and a well drafted, well fitting pattern for those with a bit more experience under their belts. Congratulations Tilly, I know that an incredible amount of hard work has gone into creating this pattern - and it shows.  Coco deserves to do well and I'm sure it will. If you haven't yet bought a copy, you can get one here.

I was so pleased with my Coco top that I made a dress version as well, but you'll have to wait for another post to see that. Spoiler alert: it's fab! x

The Coco pattern was given to me free of charge for pattern testing. All views my own.

Victoria Blazer: Jane style

I'm a bit late to the By Hand London Victoria Blazer party I'm afraid. So late in fact, that everybody's gone home and there are just a couple of passed out drunks left in the front room. Never mind eh?! I had planned to make it earlier, honest Injun, but the freakishly hot weather we've been enjoying in the UK this summer made it impossible to even think about sewing a blazer. So down the queue it went, but not too far down, as I knew it would make a fab autumn project. 

It's now autumn, the days are rapidly cooling down and my jacket is finished, never say I don't stick to my plan! Shamefully, I showed absolutely no imagination with this make and just went for a blatant copying of Roisin's lovely red version. As soon as I saw hers, I knew I wanted a red one too, only in double knit (I got my double knit from Calico Laine. Mine has even got the same lining as Roisin's! After I enthusiastically admired her lining fabric, Roisin, angel that she is, promptly sent it to me! I love that girl. No honestly, I really, truly do!

Striped floral lining fabric, courtesy of Roisin

Anyway, I may have blatantly copied the colour red and the exact same lining but I did do a few things differently: 

• As wonderful as all the cropped versions are, I just knew a cropped jacket wasn't for me, so I went for the longer length - version A. Except on my midget frame it was a bit too long (god, make your mind up Jane) so I shortened it by two inches.

• Lengthened the sleeves to wrist length. I do actually like the cropped sleeves but sadly, my arms are T-Rex length and cropped sleeves can often make my arms look shorter than they are (if that's even possible?!) 

Perfect length sleeves 

• Changed the shape of my lapels from square to angled at the bottom, using this easy tutorial by The Quirky Peach. 

• Tapered the side seams in quite dramatically (more on this later).

• Omitted the pockets. The jacket started life with pockets but they pulled down in a strange way, maybe the double knit was the wrong weight? So off they came.

Size-wise I made a UK size 8 - this is smaller than my measurements but I wanted to allow for the extra stretch of the double knit. As the whole sewing world has already declared, this pattern is a delight to sew. Really easy and straight forward and a perfect pattern to try if you're tackling your first jacket. And the sleeves!! Oh the sleeves were a dream to set in, they went in FIRST TIME, without a word of complaint. Lovely, lovely sleeves. I also understitched the lapel and collar seams to help them lay flat (a tip from Marie at A Stitching Odyssey) and sewed the shell and lining armholes together to prevent the lining from peeking out underneath the blazer shell (a tip from Sally at A Quirky Peach). I sewed the main seams with my overlocker and everything else on my sewing machine with a jersey needle, which worked a treat.

The original boxy shoulders and roomy fit were a BIG departure for me style-wise and once the jacket was sewn up, I had to admit, the style just didn't work for me. I absolutely LOVE this style on other bloggers, just not on me. Let's face it, if a boxy jacket didn't work for me as a teenager in the 1980's when I was in my prime, it wasn't going to do me any favours 30 years later. I wouldn't admit defeat though - no way! - a quick tapering in of the waist and the whole look of the blazer was quite a bit more fitted and 100% more me.

I love the result and I'm hoping that the addition of this jacket to my wardrobe will be a good first step towards weaning myself off my hard core cardigan habit. Actually, with the fitted sides, the jacket is now far more cardigan than jacket, as it only has enough room for one layer underneath. The finished product might not have the uber-cool edge of the original pattern but it works for me and that's what matters.  x

Knit dress plans

Yesterday saw the last of my xmas craft fairs. Despite the torrential rain and gale force winds affecting the UK at the moment, lots of people made the effort to attend and I sold TONS. Well, not quite, but I did make a sizeable dent in my tooth fairy cushion mountain and more than enough to alleviate the guilt of buying this Kate Spade bag….

I know it's hideously expensive but I don't buy clothes anymore, and this bag couldn't be more perfectly me if it had JANE scrawled across it. Anyway, mad bag purchases aside, the pressure is definitely off and I'm looking forward to getting back to dressmaking.

Having worn my Peonyesque knit dress an embarrassing number of times, I really have to make something similar. I received some great suggestions after asking for advice on knit patterns, but it was reader midsummermellie who directed me to Maria Denmark's fab range, thanks Mellie! They were exactly what I was after and I ordered two patterns straight away. I've heard good things about Maria Denmark patterns from Sew Busy Lizzy who has an interview with the designer here, and from the queen of knits herself, Scruffy Badger, so I'm optimistic to say the least! The patterns arrived this week and I'm pretty excited to start work on them.  

First up is a raglan sleeved dress which I'll be making without the flare at the hem (it's not quite me is it?) I'd like to make this in a patterned knit fabric as it's so simple. What pattern to choose though…stripes? polka dots? florals? animals?!! It's quite a plain shift style so my fabric will have to be reasonably thick to ensure every lump and bump isn't displayed. Oh I can't decide, I can feel another trip to the Goldhawk Road coming on...

The second pattern can also be made as a tunic top and has a few more interesting details than the first, which makes me think a solid colour would be a better choice.  I really like the gathered shoulders and the cuffs, which are crying out to be made in a contrast fabric. I think I'll make this one in a double knit as it's so cosy. Again, I'm procrastinating over colour. My immediate instinct is to make a navy dress with cream cuffs. But I see that Calico Laine now stocks Royal Blue in their double knit section. Hhmm. What do you think? Do I go for a burst of colour for once, or play safe with the classics?  Any suggestions/opinions re colours, prints or knit fabric featuring animals will be gratefully received. Keep warm and dry. x

Lady in Red Part Two: Homage to Joan

My New Look 6000 dress is finished and I can solemnly declare, hand on heart, that this is my favourite of all my handmade makes.  When I first saw the pattern on Scruffy Badger's winter dress round up, my immediate thought was how lovely it would look made from a red knit.  Just one small obstacle - I've never sewn with knits before and I didn't have the time/bravery to fully get to grips with my overlocker.  However, once I'd read Gertie's tips on sewing with double knits and realised I could use my regular sewing machine, I decided to give it a go.

It was pointless making a muslin in woven fabric, as double knit is just so different in feel and drape.  So taking Gertie's advice, I cut the pieces out in my size and just did a basted fitting on my dummy.  The pattern seemed to run on the large side and the bust darts were worryingly low down, but all I had to do was move the bust darts up the bodice, take in the central darts and side seams a little and hey presto - a perfect fitted dress.  

I'm convinced this was due to the magical properties of double knit - if I'd tried the same changes on a woven fabric I doubt whether the fit would have been so good, so quickly.  Double knit is very forgiving and seems to follow the curves of your body instinctively. Plus, if you do need to remove stitches, the fabric seems to just bounce back into shape, with no unsightly stitch marks left behind.  I used a ballpoint needle and the dress sewed up like a dream - not one skipped stitch.  

Double knit is now officially my new favourite fabric, knocking gabardine off its perch.  For some reason though, it's not that easy to get hold of it in the UK.  I got mine from Calico Laine, as recommended by Suzysewing. If you're a complete lazy arse like me, then I really recommend sewing with it as it allows you a wide array of shortcuts.  Along with the basted fitting which saved a lot of time, here are the other shortcuts I took:

1. I left all seams unfinished!! Yes, you read that correctly.  Here's what Gertie has to say on the matter:  "Double knits don't fray so no need to finish the seams - hurrah!"  If it's good enough for the high priestess of the perfectly finished seam, then it's good enough for me!

  

2. I didn't insert a zip - there's more than enough stretch to get it over my head.

3.  I didn't use facings around the neckline.  I find there's always a lot of bulk with facings, even on a light fabric, and as double knit is quite a thick fabric (the clue's in the name!) I wasn't even going there.  I finished the neckline with bias binding instead, using this very clear and straight forward tutorial which worked a treat.

4.  No lining - the fabric is warm and thick enough not to need one, and because of the no-fray seams, it still looks good on the inside.

The dress feels lovely to wear - soft and slinky yet cosy at the same time.  It's also ridiculously flattering, pulling in your bad bits and emphasising your good bits.  Can you tell I love it?!

My inspiration for the dress was this picture of the lovely Joan from Mad Men.  

Joan is just so beautiful she's almost not of this world - she certainly swims in a different river to us mere mortals.  So my dress is an homage to her gorgeousness.  As a final nod to Joany, I added covered buttons to the sleeve cuffs.

Thank you Scruffy Badger, for alerting me to this glorious pattern, I would never have spotted it otherwise - that's what I love about sewing blogs!  I'm going to really enjoy wearing this to the xmas party I'm attending tomorrow night.  I can't wait to see the other makes in the NL6000 fest.