Tuesday 10 September 2013

Victoria Blazer: Jane style

I'm a bit late to the By Hand London Victoria Blazer party I'm afraid. So late in fact, that everybody's gone home and there are just a couple of passed out drunks left in the front room. Never mind eh?! I had planned to make it earlier, honest Injun, but the freakishly hot weather we've been enjoying in the UK this summer made it impossible to even think about sewing a blazer. So down the queue it went, but not too far down, as I knew it would make a fab autumn project. 



It's now autumn, the days are rapidly cooling down and my jacket is finished, never say I don't stick to my plan! Shamefully, I showed absolutely no imagination with this make and just went for a blatant copying of Roisin's lovely red version. As soon as I saw hers, I knew I wanted a red one too, only in double knit (I got my double knit from Calico Laine. Mine has even got the same lining as Roisin's! After I enthusiastically admired her lining fabric, Roisin, angel that she is, promptly sent it to me! I love that girl. No honestly, I really, truly do!

Striped floral lining fabric, courtesy of Roisin

Anyway, I may have blatantly copied the colour red and the exact same lining but I did do a few things differently: 
  • As wonderful as all the cropped versions are, I just knew a cropped jacket wasn't for me, so I went for the longer length - version A. Except on my midget frame it was a bit too long (god, make your mind up Jane) so I shortened it by two inches.
  • Lengthened the sleeves to wrist length. I do actually like the cropped sleeves but sadly, my arms are T-Rex length and cropped sleeves can often make my arms look shorter than they are (if that's even possible?!) 

Perfect length sleeves 

  • Tapered the side seams in quite dramatically (more on this later).
  • Omitted the pockets. The jacket started life with pockets but they pulled down in a strange way, maybe the double knit was the wrong weight? So off they came.



Size-wise I made a UK size 8 - this is smaller than my measurements but I wanted to allow for the extra stretch of the double knit. As the whole sewing world has already declared, this pattern is a delight to sew. Really easy and straight forward and a perfect pattern to try if you're tackling your first jacket. And the sleeves!! Oh the sleeves were a dream to set in, they went in FIRST TIME, without a word of complaint. Lovely, lovely sleeves. I also understitched the lapel and collar seams to help them lay flat (a tip from Marie at A Stitching Odyssey) and sewed the shell and lining armholes together to prevent the lining from peeking out underneath the blazer shell (a tip from Sally at A Quirky Peach). I sewed the main seams with my overlocker and everything else on my sewing machine with a jersey needle, which worked a treat.


The original boxy shoulders and roomy fit were a BIG departure for me style-wise and once the jacket was sewn up, I had to admit, the style just didn't work for me. I absolutely LOVE this style on other bloggers, just not on me. Let's face it, if a boxy jacket didn't work for me as a teenager in the 1980's when I was in my prime, it wasn't going to do me any favours 30 years later. I wouldn't admit defeat though - no way! - a quick tapering in of the waist and the whole look of the blazer was quite a bit more fitted and 100% more me.

I love the result and I'm hoping that the addition of this jacket to my wardrobe will be a good first step towards weaning myself off my hard core cardigan habit. Actually, with the fitted sides, the jacket is now far more cardigan than jacket, as it only has enough room for one layer underneath. The finished product might not have the uber-cool edge of the original pattern but it works for me and that's what matters.  x



54 comments:

  1. Jane it's amazing. And now I totally need a double-knit blazer in my life as well - I suffer the same debilitating cardigan addiction that you do. Where did you get your shell fabric from? I love the way you've tweaked it to make it you, but I think it does still have that cool vibe of the original!

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    1. Thanks Roisin! Yes, you DO need a double knit blazer in your life, I've been wearing mine all day today and it's fab! I got the double knit from Calico Laine, here's the link:http://www.calicolaine.co.uk/Fabrics-Jersey-Fabrics-Double-Knit-Jersey-c1_612_547/Red-Double-Knit-Jersey-p5921.html?osCsid=c047155c18843bf340715d610f6e8b59. I've now put the link in the post.
      Thanks again for the gorgeous lining fabric, there's probably enough for another blazer so let know if you need it back! x

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  2. Red is such a good colour for you Jane!

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  3. Lovely! I've been toying with the idea of making this in a knit too, and now I know it's a great idea!

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  4. Wonderful jacket Jane, and a gorgeous colour which looks great on you! I feel tempted to ask you would you mind making another one for a loyal blog reader (who unfortunately doesn't comment often enough)... that would be me, commenting and feeling cheeky today!

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  5. This is a great take on the Victoria blazer. The colour is great on you and I love how the more tapered waist looks.
    I'm even later to the party... a linen version has been on my list for months, but I think linen might just have been usurped by double knit!

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  6. Beautiful! And how lovely for Roisin to send you some of her lining fabric!!!
    I'm toying with the idea of making this jacket too so thank you for the construction tips - having never made a jacket before I think you may have persuaded me to give this pattern a try!

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    1. Honestly Suzie, if you've never made a jacket before then this is THE ONE. Brilliant instructions and drafting and makes you feel like a genius when it's finished! x

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  7. Really beautiful! I always love seeing you in red, and this jacket is totally perfect on you with all the little adjustments you made. Also, I gotta agree with you.,.. Roisin in the coolest. Man, I gotta get my rear over there so I can hang out with you ladies, I feel like I'm missing outtttt.

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    1. Yes, yes, come on over and play with us Lauren! We promise we'll charm you with our English accents (or Irish in Roisin's case) and make you laugh, we'll have a blast! x

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  8. I like the fitted look much much better than the boxy one. You did a great job! Thank you for detailing your construction tips, they will be very helpful if I undertake this pattern.

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  9. I think this looks fantastic on you!! No offense to the other bloggers, all of whom have made wonderful Victoria blazers, but this might be my favorite! Now I really want to make one. Red looks so great on you that I'm almost beginning to trick myself into thinking I could pull off a red jacket (no, I couldn't, me and red don't go well together).

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    1. Ah I do that all the time: see a colour/pattern on somebody that suits is very well, then convince myself it will look just as good on me! X

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  10. Really love this jacket, I need to get myself a copy and make it up asap- you're really not the last to the party :) I, too, will need to make it less boxy, any tips on how?
    Freya May

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    1. Making it two sizes smaller than my measurements was a good start! This was only because I was using double knit though, it may be worth checking measurements extra carefully if you were planning to use a woven fabric. I also shortened it by 2 inches. The main change was tapering it in from under the arms to the waist and back out again, I just pinned it until I had the shape I wanted. Not very technical I'm afraid. Also, double knit seems to spring into whatever shape you give it so I suspect it was more forgiving to the tapered waist than other fabrics might be. Good luck! x

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  11. I love this version! I didn't try to make the blazer yet, because of the squarishness (is that a word?) it has, but your adaptation looks great!

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  12. This is amazing, and creepily matches EXACTLY what I wanted to do with the pattern. Roisin's cropped red version was my fave and the most 'me' of the Victoria's I saw in the blogosphere but was a bit nervous about the boxy fit. I don't even have the pattern yet (who's late to the party now) which is sort of awesome because all I have to do now is find me some nice red jersey and follow your steps to a T. Thanks a million Jane!

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    1. Aw you're welcome, good luck with your version! X

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  13. Jane, you always look wonderful in red. It is the first one I have seen with long sleeves and they look fantastic. Definitely something for me to think about as I make my first in the coming months. You don't have to worry about being late to the party - I always far behind everyone!

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  14. Love your jacket! It's beautiful!

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  15. Totally love it! Good thinking with the double knit and tapering. makes a real difference to the overall look of the jacket. May have to pinch that idea! x

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  16. What a perfect way to ease yourself into Autumn Jane. I love that you chose a colour that perfectly reflects your sense of style, and I love even more that you tweaked the pattern to make it more wearable for you. A total success!

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  17. Your jacket is just lovely. That color on you is dramatic! It is so nice to have an autumn jacket that does not look like autumn because I too do not look great in browns etc. I just purchased the Victoria Jacket and have not decided what to do with it - he he I am much older than you - and was just so excited that you gave your take on it - I am sure I will follow your lead on making adjustments on mine too. Thanks ever so much. I look forward to your blog because you are ever so talented and the clothes you sew look so professional!! Keep posting and often!!!!

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    1. Oh thank you for such a lovely comment Nancy! x

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  18. I LOVE this! Off to check out the pattern again in light of your version.

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  19. It really suits you! I'm much the same - I love the Victoria blazer on other people, but it's just not "me". I'm really impressed by how you adjusted it to suit you!

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  20. Aha! Jane this might just be the genius Victoria jacket post as 'Jane style' is actually a style more suited to me too, as it looks superb on you - colour, fit, casual ness. I'd been put off by the boxy style as I also knew boxy wouldn't suit me, but with everyone's fab versions I have been growing ever envious and tempted....so double knit and Jane mods might tip me over. I'll be the one arriving at the party in time to gather the bin bags and helping to mend the broken furniture!!

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    1. Oh good, hope I've tipped you over good and proper, I'd love to see a Badger version of this blazer! X

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  21. Love the jacket - I've been waiting for you to post this ;-) I want a knit version too, but wanted to see how yours comes out first, for inspiration. So thanks for great inspiration, and some useful tips too!

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  22. Lovely jacket. How do you fit a lining so that you don't lose the stretch of the jersey?

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    1. I'm not sure is the honest answer! I just fitted the lining according to the pattern and the stretch doesn't seem to have been affected. Double knit is quite a stable knit though, so maybe that helps? x

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  23. I love the red jacket and particularly the lining. I always love a little 'secret' inside a garment.

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  24. I love this jacket Jane, you've just proved how brilliant sewing-for-yourself is by making the changes to make it well and truly Jane's Jacket!
    PS I thought boxy jackets were 'me' in the 80s but I was sooo wrong! x

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    1. Oh I know, I thought I looked so cool at the time, nothing could be further from the truth! x

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  25. This looks just perfect on you. Beautiful job.

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  26. this is gorgeous! your little tweaks have made it so you. x

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  27. Love it, gorgeous...thinking about tapering mine in as I haven't really worn it because of the boxiness..Hrmm decisions

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  28. I love the tapered sides! It's so flattering and looks like it could be worn in just about any situation. I've got a cardigan problem too - I don't even own a jacket that I would consider wearing on a normal day!

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  29. I love this! I have been very tempted by all the versions I've seen out there but have also been put off by memories of what I looked like in my eighties jackets. I love the way you have made this work for you though, it looks fab, not at all eighties.

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    1. Hhmm, memories of what I looked like in the 80s are enough to make my blood run cold...! x

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  30. I love your Jane version, like some of the other commentators above, I might just have to give the Victoria another glance ;) lovely! ;)

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  31. Absolutely beautiful on you. :-)

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  32. OMG! This is such a beautiful blazer! I gasped when I saw the lining; it's so perfect. I really like how you gave the blazer shaping. Good call!

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  33. The jacket is the only thing from the By Hand London girls I've not been too sure about, even though I love the others ! This version just might convert me ......

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  34. This looks so great! The tapered look works really well on you, and I really like the red knit! :) Thanks so much for the mention, btw - that angled lapel is lookin' good ;)

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    1. Thank YOU for the great tips, they were invaluable! x

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  35. Can vouch for this being such a lovely Victoria for real but didn't realise it had such amazing lining! :-)

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    1. Thanks Janene, I should have given you a flash of my lining! x

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  36. I love it, well it is in one of my fave colours :) The lining is perfect with it, just the ticket for a dull autumnal day. I bet it is super comfy in that knit too.

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  37. It's fabulous Jane and red is so your colour. Yummy lining too, you lucky lady! Bethx

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  38. I love the fitted look you gave to the blazer. Very flattering. I love fitted jackets a lot! Red is great on you

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  39. Love your Victoria, Jane! Looks really well made and the color is great on you!

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  40. Where did you get that awesome dress form??

    PS I love the more fitted look you gave this jacket, I'm definitely going to copy you when I make it :D

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