My Renfrew Top

I'm sure you've all read about the latest Sewaholic pattern to be released - The Renfrew Top.  I'm more excited than most because I was one of the lucky pattern testers, hooray!  It's wonderful to see it in its published state and I can guarantee you won't be disappointed.

The Renfrew is a casual top with three necklines (scooped, V or cowl) and three sleeve choices (long, short or three quarter) which makes it a great pattern for mixing and matching.  I chose to sew the long sleeved, scoop necked version and it also marked my joint first experience of sewing with a knit fabric (I made it at the same time as my Homage to Joan dress.)

In her pre-sew guidelines,  Tasia advised us to choose a stable knit with less than 5% spandex.  As Karen pointed out in her post on the Renfrew (cowl necked, three quarter sleeves and gorgeous - read all about it here), it's difficult to know how much spandex is in a knit or jersey fabric just by looking at it, and very few fabrics in shops or markets have the stretch content listed.  Because I wanted to do well for teacher/Tasia, I bought my fabric online from Calico Laine (double knit in 'petrol'), which helpfully lists the spandex content.  Ditto Fabrics has a good choice too. 

So how was it for me?  Well I've only sewn with a Sewaholic pattern once before - the Pendrell blouse - but I liked it so much I made it three times.  The Renfrew is just as well drafted, and the instructions are super clear and easy. Everything makes sense and the cuffs and waistband sections are a lovely touch that gives the top a professional finish.  Because I was still too much of a scaredy cat at this point, I chickened out of using my overlocker and sewed it on a normal sewing machine.  I told myself Tasia needed valuable feedback from non overlocker users....  For those of you without overlockers out there, you'll be pleased to know that it sews up like a dream.  I used a simple straight stitch throughout and a quick zigzag on the neckline. 

And very satisfying and quick to sew together it was too, it only took a couple of hours from start to finish.  Size-wise I cut a Sewaholic size 10 and made the same small hip adjustment I made to my Pendrell blouse.  The fit is good - snug without being too clingy.

Double knit is quite a thick fabric and with the cuffs and waistband, I initially thought the finished top looked a bit sweat-shirty.  I was also worried that the style was too casual.  Sometimes though, initial thoughts turn out to be wrong.  The double knit is flattering without clinging to every lump and bump like some knit fabrics do and it's SSOO cosy and warm.  This is a perfect top for layering and it seems to blend in with whatever you're wearing, be that jeans or a skirt.  

I really enjoyed being a pattern tester for Tasia  - she's a great woman to work with.  She's also very talented - what appears to be a plain, simple top has turned out to have far more oomph to it than I first imagined.  Tasia asked us to sew up the version we'd chosen exactly as written and that's what I did.  But the Renfrew is the perfect blank canvas for adding your own personal touch.  I've already got my next version lined up, in black and white stripes with a few tweaks.  Next time though, I'm going to try sewing the whole thing using my overlocker!  Have a lovely weekend.  x

The Renfrew pattern was given to me free of charge for pattern testing. All views my own.

Dressing for Yourself Colette Style

Like a lot of my blog posts, this one has been copied inspired by first Tasia's, then Karen's response to a section in the Colette Sewing Handbook.

Despite ordering the book 10 seconds (that's no exaggeration) after it was first announced on the blog back in the summer, it only arrived on my doorstep last week.  And, even worse,  it was left whimpering in the cupboard under the stairs for a whole day, after I'd tossed it there, thinking it was yet another Christmas present for my kids.  Anyway I digress, it's a wonderful, wonderful book and I've been trying to read it slowly and savour it ever since, but it's difficult to do!

In one of the chapters, Sarai discusses how we plan both what we wear and what we decide to make for ourselves. She suggests an exercise of picking out five things that you love to wear and why - which in turn, may give you clues on how to build a wardrobe around the qualities that are important to you.  I found both Tasia's and Karen's choices really interesting, but I was also very intrigued to read comments from their readers.  It's amazing how much of your personality and essence readers can glean from your blog:  how you dress and how you write and what it says about you.  So, completely jumping on the bandwagon, here are my five choices.

1. and 2. Beignet Skirt and Hillbilly Blouse
Beignet Skirt

The Beignet was one of the first things I ever made and probably the garment I've worn most.  Before I started sewing my own clothes I wouldn't have gone within 50 miles of a high waistband, but since the Beignet I've realised how flattering a high waistband is for my body shape.
I also like:

The colour (ahem)
The contrast buttons - they make me so happy just to look at them
The secret polka dot facings and pockets

The fact that it goes with most of my handmade tops, which leads me onto....

Hillbilly Blouse
What do I like?
The vintage fit and shape - it's from a 1950's pattern
The buttons
The fabric, I just can't resist gingham

3. Pendrell Blouses

 First Pendrell

 Second Pendrell

I've made three, two of which I've worn pretty much on a weekly basis since I first made them. The third wasn't so successful as I made the sleeveless version which for me, just didn't work.  I've since added sleeves so hope to get a lot more wear out of it in the warmer weather as the fabric is so lovely.

I especially like:
The flattering princess seams on the pattern
The longer length (interestingly the first one looks better untucked whilst the second one is more flattering tucked in, make of that what you will)
It's a practical blouse but the ruffle sleeves give it slightly more of a dressed up feel.

4. Sailor Trousers

Basically these are the trousers I've been waiting for all my life.  I can't really say much more than that.

5. Parfait Dress
I've only worn this a few times as it's very much a sun dress and I live in the UK (!)  But the Parfait ties together everything I set out to do when I started dressmaking.

It has a flattering fit and a vintage look which I love.  I think that's why I'm drawn to Colette patterns so much, because they help me achieve both these things.  It's also made from the most gorgeous double gauze fabric which is so lovely and cool to wear.  I'm so pleased I matched this particular pattern with this particular fabric.  It's fitted but practical enough for me to run around after the kids and still feel like I'm making an effort.

So there, that's me in a nutshell.  My choice is based on what I've worn the most and what is quintessentially me.  Quite a lot of my handmade garments all work with each other but I like the fact that there are a few wild cards in my wardrobe (not many though!).  I don't think you need to be Einstein to work out the patterns that appear in my handmade clothes, do you?!

That was a great exercise to do, why don't you try it?  Have a great weekend everybody. x

Sleeveless Top Challenge

After making my first Sorbetto top recently, I decided to do a sleeveless top challenge: the Sorbetto versus the Pendrell.  I felt that the princess seams of the Pendrell would be more flattering to my shape than the basic vest shape of the Sorbetto.  So away I went….

I’ve had some Anna Maria Horner voile in my stash for a while but keep changing my mind about what to make with it.  I struck whilst the iron was hot (literally) and quickly cut out the sleeveless version of the Pendrell (version three). Once sewn though, it was surprising to see just how plain a top the sleeveless Pendrell really is.  On me, it was verging on the frumpy. I didn’t take any photos of the Pendrell in its frumpsville phase, you’ll just have to take my word for it.   

I didn’t want to waste my precious voile, so I needed to do a bit of re-jigging. Hhhmm, what to do? In the end I added a Peter Pan collar and I think it saved the day.  Inspired by ooobop’s lovely dress in this post, I drafted my own collar using this tutorial. To stop the neckline looking too bulky (it was already bias bound) I top stitched the collar down.  It's not perfect, but it still works and at least the collar lies flat. The addition of a collar definitely makes it more wearable.  Overall, I’m pretty pleased with it.

I couldn't resist adding a button

Now that I’ve sewn the two patterns within a week of each other, here’s my list of what does and doesn't work for me with each pattern.

Sorbetto

Barely 0.5 metres of fabric needed

Very quick to sew

Free download!           

Great for a holiday wardrobe           

Way too short (this is easily remedied though)           

Quite boxy in shape on me

Needs to be tucked in on me to look good 

Cool pleat down the middle            

Pendrell

More like 1.5 metres of fabric needed

Still quick to sew but not in the Sorbetto's league

Pattern is good value, considering this is my third make from it

Too plain on me without added collar or sleeves

Nice and long

Princess seams extremely flattering

Can be worn tucked or untucked on me

Two sleeve options available

In conclusion, I think they’re more or less neck and neck. I think the Sorbetto is better as a casual

holiday top, whereas the Pendrell is a more elegant style.  They’re both great patterns and I’m sure 

I’ll make more versions of each one.  It was a fruitful experiment though – I’ve now got two very

wearable tops for my holidays. Result!          

                                     

MMJ: Days 23, 24, 25 and 26

So, what's been happening for the past few days?....

Day 23

MMJ: Day 23

Top: Pendrell blouse

Trousers: Banana Republic

Sandals: Camper

Me-Made Category: A

This is a pretty easy combination and was exactly what I wore on Day 12 too.

Day 24

MMJ: Day 24

Top: 1950's wrap top

Skirt: Japanese one pleat skirt

Shoes: Kew

Me-Made Category: Both verging on A

After languishing in my wardrobe unworn since its birth, this top has received the most compliments of all my me-made clothes this month.  Very strange.

Day 25

MMJ: Day 25

Cardigan: John Smedley

Dress: Crepe dress

Shoes: Marks and Spencer

Me-Made category: B

I wore this for my son's school fair and it was a big hit.  Lots of people asked me where I bought it from!!! I think it was the fabric which got them all so excited.  It's still a pain to get it to sit right, especially the wrap bit at the back, but I can live with it because it's such a lovely dress for summer.  In fact, I was tempted to skip off and pick flowers in the adjoining meadow as I was wearing just the right get-up.  You'll be relieved to know I didn't...

Day 26

MMJ: Day 26

Top: Sorbetto

Skirt: Beignet

Shoes: Clarks

Me-Made Category: Top, C as it's fresh off the machine, Skirt, A

Today was hot, hot, hot so I decided to give my new Sorbetto a spin.  I made this top with the intention of taking it on holiday so today's hot weather was a good practice run. Verdict?  Perfect, really cool in hot weather.  

I can't believe a whole month has almost gone by, every day of which I've been clad in my hand stitched clothes!  Happy Monday. x

MMJ: Day One

Hoorah! Today is the first day of Me-Made-June - a whole month of wearing handmade clothes.  It will be really interesting to see what gets rotated the most, and I'm determined to give everything I've made a spin out of the wardrobe.  In the past few weeks I've been going through all my me-mades, trying to see which pieces work together - I noticed that they fall into three distinct categories:

Category A

Me-made clothes I wear all the time and that I feel are indistinguishable from store-bought clothes.  Happily, about two thirds of my handmade clothes fall into this category.

Category B

Me-made clothes that have been worn once or twice but for some reason haven't really made the grade.

Category C

Me-made clothes that have never been worn.  Ever. 

These are the clothes equivalents of those poor kids that used to always get chosen last for the rounders team.  I feel more than a little sorry for them and a bit guilty too, so one of my objectives is to give the clothes in this category a turn and actually wear them.  There are only three pieces in this category and they're all lovely.  "So why don't you wear them?"  I hear you all cry.  I will. I will. I promise.   

And what did I wear today?  Well, it's half term here in the UK (again) so no dressing up for me today as I have to entertain my sons.  In my experience, small boys are like dogs and need to be regular exercised or they go a bit nuts.  So for the next three days I have to be suitably attired for running around the park and playing football.  On Saturday, when my husband's around and can take over football-playing duties, I'll dress up a bit.  For now...

MMJ: Day One

Top: My second Pendrell blouse, blogged here
Trousers:  Next
Me-Made Category: A


So far, so good.  See you all tomorrow... x

Pendrell Mark Two

Seeing Karen's lovely Pendrell blouse at the weekend made me suddenly want to wear my own Pendrell, which I’d made last month and hadn’t got round to wearing.  I wore it earlier this week and loved it - it’s really comfortable and gives a plain outfit that little extra bit of oomph.  So, like a woman possessed, I decided I HAD to make another one IMMEDIATELY!  I’d already decided which fabric to use ages ago – this remnant of flowery fabric I picked up at a Vintage Fair.  

I’m not sure what kind of fabric it is, probably something synthetic by the feel of it.  The girl I bought it from didn’t know either and was so embarrassed about it that she gave me a huge unasked for discount (I got over two metres of vintage fabric for £7 – result!).

With the first Pendrell I made a size 10, and although I’d already adjusted the hips on the pattern, I felt it was still a bit loose in the chest.  Not so noticeable with the voile but probably more so with the stretchy mystery fabric.  So I cut out an 8 for this version and it’s a great fit.  

I used Andrea’s method of sewing extra bias binding around the neck to create a bow.  

You simply sew the binding to the outside of the blouse rather than the inside, and leave a couple of lengths dangling to form a bow. Super simple and super pretty.  I still can’t quell my fear of looking like Dog Toby, so the seam went unruffled again. I'm really pleased with it, it looks like it was born to be in my wardrobe.

The bare legged look - sadly for indoor use only at this time of year

The great thing about making second (or third) versions of patterns is that you’ve already done all the dirty work of sizing and adjusting for fit.  Plus, you’ve sewn it before, so you know all the tricks.  The second time around it’s a piece of cake (in fact this version only took me a couple of hours to sew).  I’m not the only one who thinks this way, Tilly’s just finished her third Beignet and Karen’s made three versions of her Woman’s Realm skirt with plans for several more Pendrell’s!  I don’t think this is the last you’ll see of this particular pattern….

Finished Pendrell blouse

I finished my third sewalong today with the completion of the Pendrell blouse – yes!  This was a great sewalong, run by Tasia at Sewaholic: fast paced, good, clear photos and tutorials and lots of great advice.  There’s also a Sewtionary on Tasia’s blog where she unravels the mysteries of various tricky sewing techniques by means of step-by-step tutorials.  It’s really useful stuff, if like me, you get a blank head full of cotton wool every single time a pattern calls for under stitching a facing to a neckline. I don’t know what’s wrong with me  - I’ve done it countless times but still there’s an absolute vacuum in my brain every time it comes up!  

And so, on to the Pendrell … a little peach of a pattern, well designed and clear and a pleasure to follow and use (in the same way the Collette Patterns are).  This would be a perfect first project for a beginner as it’s easy to sew together and there are no closures (zips, buttons etc), just a neckline bound with stretchy bias binding. It’s a loose, drapey fit but is given shape by the cunning use of princess seams right down the front and back of the blouse.  I chose view B, but omitted the seam ruffle as too many ruffles make me feel like Dog Toby from Punch and Judy.  As I’ve mentioned before, Sewaholic patterns are designed for the pear-shaped figure.  I’m curvy, but not pear-shaped so I sewed a bigger size than usual to accommodate by bust and waist and decreased the hip on the pattern to bring it more in proportion.  I still had to take in the side seams at the bust and waist quite a bit, so I think for my next version I’ll try the next size down.

The fabric was one of the Innocent Crush voiles from Anna Maria Horner.  There was a lot of excitement from other bloggers over the summer about them and I can totally see what all the fuss was about. Ooh, what a lovely, buttery (Anna Maria Horner's word, not mine) feel this fabric has, and it’s so drapey.  Because the Pendrell is cut quite long, it’s perfect for tucking in.  

Ooh, lovely trousers, where did you get them?...

As an experiment, I thought I’d try on my Sencha blouse and tuck it into my new 1940’s strides as the Pendrell looked so flattering. Crikey, what a difference in the feel and look of the fabric.  In my naivety as a rookie seamstress, I used a medium weight quilting cotton for the Sencha.  Having now sewn with voile, the quilting cotton feels like it’s been in a bath of starch for a week.  It's so stiff, what was I thinking?!  I still like it and will wear it again, but I’m afraid it will be forever afflicted with bad, stiff fabric syndrome.

Sencha blouse, now suffering from bad fabric syndrome

This is a great, versatile blouse which I'm sure I'll wear a lot over the coming months.  As well as teaming with my fine slacks, it also looks good untucked with jeans.

Casual, jeans wearing girl

I've already planned my next version....

So, I’m now in the unusual position of only participating in one sewalong - Casey’s Swing Dress.  I’m planning to sew up my muslin tomorrow, but her post on how to sew up the complicated, gathered shoulder seam look terrifying, so maybe it’s a good thing I’ve only got that to concentrate on!  

It hasn’t all been dressmaking though; I’ve got some exciting craft news which I’ll let you know about in the next post.  Have a good Thursday everybody. x