Finished: Arielle Skirt

As is often the case, not one but two of my favourite handmade skirts have had to be retired due to being thoroughly worn out. They were my beloved denim Ginger skirt and my navy-with-red-buttons Beignet. Both were made using Colette patterns during my first year of sewing and have been on constant rotation ever since, so they were well and truly worn to death. I needed to make replacements, and fast!

The shape and style of the Tilly and the Buttons Arielle Skirt seemed to be the perfect solution. And as there was now a denim-skirt-shaped hole in my wardrobe, I decided to make my version in denim. The fitted silhouette and cute button detail of the pattern also reminded me of my Beignet skirt, so I felt like I was channelling my two old skirts into one new one!

The instructions for the Arielle pattern are very clearIy written, with good, explanatory photos to guide you through the process. Unlike the Beignet pattern, it didn't take very long to sew at all (I made it over the course of two afternoons) and there are very few pattern pieces, especially if you make the unlined version. The side seams are contoured to fit around your waist and hips, making the skirt very close fitting - using a stretch denim was definitely a good move as it really does yank you into place! Size-wise, I made a size 3 and the only adjustment I made was to the length - I took about 10cms from the length of the longer version. I didn't adjust the waist and hips at all and the finished fit is great. I think it's an ideal pattern for a confident beginner to tackle, perhaps as a second skirt project.

The fabric I used is a stretch denim in a very dark blue from Ditto Fabrics. I pre-washed it, but it still feels quite stiff - hopefully it will soften up after a few washes. Because of this, the overlapped front edge doesn't lie completely flat, but that's just me nit picking. My version is unlined as that's what I've always done with denim skirts (I think of them a bit like jeans!) I would also normally use a lighter weight fabric for the facings to reduce bulk, especially when sewing with denim. In this case, however, I did actually use denim facings and I think the skirt benefits from the extra support. 

I'd planned to simply overlock the outer edge of the facings, but once I saw this post on finishing a facing with bias binding, I had to give my skirt a polka dot edge. I love how the inside of the skirt looks now, it has such a neat, professional finish.

Talking of polka dots, do you like my buttons?! They were given to me by Kerry a few years ago (I think!) and I couldn't resist adding them. Hopefully, the plain, functional denim stops them looking too twee. 

I have a feeling I'll be wearing the Arielle skirt a lot. It seems to be a good match with every single top half I throw at it (as evidenced by the unusual amount of costume changes in this post!), which I'm  taking as a good sign!  I'm so happy with it - I've ended up with a gorgeous, retro looking skirt that was born to live in my wardrobe.  x

Kelly skirt: hit or miss?

Do you ever see a garment on a sewing blog and have a burning desire to make an exact copy IMMEDIATELY? You do? Oh good, I'm glad I'm not the only border-line stalker out there then ... I had my most recent moment after seeing Roobeedoo's denim Kelly skirt by Megan Nielsen. It was, in a word, perfect: the cute buttoned front, the high waistband and the fact that it was denim. Denim! You all know how much I love a neat denim skirt - I knew I had to have one the same. I sheepishly contacted Roobeedoo at this point, letting her know my Single White Female intentions. Being the fine, generous woman she is, she graciously gave me her blessing to blatantly rip her skirt off, along with some construction tips and advice on lining! You gotta love Roobeedoo!

I used the same Japanese denim from Our Patterned Hand as Roobeedoo, but when push came to shove, I just couldn't be arsed to add a lining. My denim Ginger isn't lined and it's never given me any trouble, so I winged it. I used a light blue thread for the top stitching and buttonholes and vintage glass buttons. 

Top tip: be very careful not to drop glass buttons on the floor, remember, they're made of glass so can break. Ask me how I know....! Size-wise I made a small and it fits well, I didn't make any alterations, apart from hemming it half an inch longer than it says on the pattern. Let me state for the record that the Kelly skirt is a VERY easy skirt to make, two front pocketed pieces, a back piece, some pleats and a waistband. Hoorah. Yes, there are seven buttonholes but that's still five fewer than the other main player in the button front skirt world - the Colette Beignet. I've made the Beignet twice (here and here) and although I love it to death, it does probably take about three times longer to make than the Kelly skirt.

So, I've made a carbon copy of Roobeedoo's skirt, same pattern, same fabric, a good fit, easy to sew. Surely I should be skipping around with glee, punching the air at this point? Well, not really. It wasn't the love at first sight I was expecting - just because a garment looks wonderful on one sewist, it doesn't necessarily follow that it will be a perfect match on you. On the surface, it includes all the features I like: A-line shape, nice buttoned front, high waist, but I don't really wear skirts with pleats, just as I don't wear gathered skirts, I'm not used to having so much volume around my waist. And I think that's what I need to get past with this skirt, it's a different shape than I'm used to, that's all. I think it's quite healthy to be dragged out of my sewing comfort zone now and again, so I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt. 

It's looking promising so far - the more I wear it, the more I like it. Even with a high waist, it's super comfortable and I like the fab, roomy pockets. We'll have to wait and see - darling Kelly skirt, don't take it personally, it's not you, it's me! x

Beignet in Black

I made my first Colette Patterns Beignet skirt over a year ago, and despite my best intentions a second version just never managed to make it onto my sewing table.  The shape is supremely flattering, it fits like a dream and it seems to go with any top, so why the digging in of heels?  I think it's because this is such a time consuming make... it's constructed in panels, it's fully lined, with facings, twelve buttons and button holes and six REALLY fiddly little belt loops.  Compared to the Ginger skirt, I'd say the Beignet takes about four times longer to make.  But it's definitely worth it in the end, I don't actually own a black skirt so this little madam will slot into my wardrobe perfectly.  It's really difficult to photograph a black skirt - nothing shows up!  These are the best of the lot...

Worn with its near relative - the Violet blouse

Not sure if a black and white version makes it better or worse?

I used gabardine for the main skirt and covered buttons, and silk cotton for the lining.  Gabardine is great to sew with and the perfect weight for this skirt.  One thing I love about my original Beignet is the contrast polka dot facings and pockets.  Why fiddle with something when it's already perfect, I asked myself?  So this one is also polka dot faced and pocketed. In my defence, I managed to stash bust the last of the fabric from my Violet blouse at the same time, which is good.

Contrast facing....

....and pockets, yay

I picked up the silk cotton lining on my visit to the Goldhawk Road with Suzie, Alana and Gail last week.  Yet another good thing about meeting up with fellow sewists is that they can lure you towards previously dismissed fabrics.  After my last encounter with silk lining, I was steering well clear of anything with silk in the title.  But Alana assured me that it sewed up like a dream so I went for it.  She was absolutely right, it really behaves itself and at £4 a metre (from Classic Textiles, on the left as you go in the door if you're interested) it's a lovely, affordable alternative to standard lining.

The pattern is so clever - I particularly like the way the lining and facing keep everything neat and out of sight.  Sewing the two opposite curves of the lining and facing together is a true test of sanity though - my only advice would be to do exactly what the pattern says.  You may think you know better (as I did) but in the end the steps in the pattern do make it easier.  And finally, I wrestled with my overlocker and managed to overlock all the seams.

Overlocked seams - aren't they gorgeous?

Much quicker and much more professional looking than usual.  Hoorah!  Have a great weekend. x

Dressing for Yourself Colette Style

Like a lot of my blog posts, this one has been copied inspired by first Tasia's, then Karen's response to a section in the Colette Sewing Handbook.

Despite ordering the book 10 seconds (that's no exaggeration) after it was first announced on the blog back in the summer, it only arrived on my doorstep last week.  And, even worse,  it was left whimpering in the cupboard under the stairs for a whole day, after I'd tossed it there, thinking it was yet another Christmas present for my kids.  Anyway I digress, it's a wonderful, wonderful book and I've been trying to read it slowly and savour it ever since, but it's difficult to do!

In one of the chapters, Sarai discusses how we plan both what we wear and what we decide to make for ourselves. She suggests an exercise of picking out five things that you love to wear and why - which in turn, may give you clues on how to build a wardrobe around the qualities that are important to you.  I found both Tasia's and Karen's choices really interesting, but I was also very intrigued to read comments from their readers.  It's amazing how much of your personality and essence readers can glean from your blog:  how you dress and how you write and what it says about you.  So, completely jumping on the bandwagon, here are my five choices.

1. and 2. Beignet Skirt and Hillbilly Blouse
Beignet Skirt

The Beignet was one of the first things I ever made and probably the garment I've worn most.  Before I started sewing my own clothes I wouldn't have gone within 50 miles of a high waistband, but since the Beignet I've realised how flattering a high waistband is for my body shape.
I also like:

The colour (ahem)
The contrast buttons - they make me so happy just to look at them
The secret polka dot facings and pockets

The fact that it goes with most of my handmade tops, which leads me onto....

Hillbilly Blouse
What do I like?
The vintage fit and shape - it's from a 1950's pattern
The buttons
The fabric, I just can't resist gingham

3. Pendrell Blouses

 First Pendrell

 Second Pendrell

I've made three, two of which I've worn pretty much on a weekly basis since I first made them. The third wasn't so successful as I made the sleeveless version which for me, just didn't work.  I've since added sleeves so hope to get a lot more wear out of it in the warmer weather as the fabric is so lovely.

I especially like:
The flattering princess seams on the pattern
The longer length (interestingly the first one looks better untucked whilst the second one is more flattering tucked in, make of that what you will)
It's a practical blouse but the ruffle sleeves give it slightly more of a dressed up feel.

4. Sailor Trousers

Basically these are the trousers I've been waiting for all my life.  I can't really say much more than that.

5. Parfait Dress
I've only worn this a few times as it's very much a sun dress and I live in the UK (!)  But the Parfait ties together everything I set out to do when I started dressmaking.

It has a flattering fit and a vintage look which I love.  I think that's why I'm drawn to Colette patterns so much, because they help me achieve both these things.  It's also made from the most gorgeous double gauze fabric which is so lovely and cool to wear.  I'm so pleased I matched this particular pattern with this particular fabric.  It's fitted but practical enough for me to run around after the kids and still feel like I'm making an effort.

So there, that's me in a nutshell.  My choice is based on what I've worn the most and what is quintessentially me.  Quite a lot of my handmade garments all work with each other but I like the fact that there are a few wild cards in my wardrobe (not many though!).  I don't think you need to be Einstein to work out the patterns that appear in my handmade clothes, do you?!

That was a great exercise to do, why don't you try it?  Have a great weekend everybody. x

MMJ: Days 23, 24, 25 and 26

So, what's been happening for the past few days?....

Day 23

MMJ: Day 23

Top: Pendrell blouse

Trousers: Banana Republic

Sandals: Camper

Me-Made Category: A

This is a pretty easy combination and was exactly what I wore on Day 12 too.

Day 24

MMJ: Day 24

Top: 1950's wrap top

Skirt: Japanese one pleat skirt

Shoes: Kew

Me-Made Category: Both verging on A

After languishing in my wardrobe unworn since its birth, this top has received the most compliments of all my me-made clothes this month.  Very strange.

Day 25

MMJ: Day 25

Cardigan: John Smedley

Dress: Crepe dress

Shoes: Marks and Spencer

Me-Made category: B

I wore this for my son's school fair and it was a big hit.  Lots of people asked me where I bought it from!!! I think it was the fabric which got them all so excited.  It's still a pain to get it to sit right, especially the wrap bit at the back, but I can live with it because it's such a lovely dress for summer.  In fact, I was tempted to skip off and pick flowers in the adjoining meadow as I was wearing just the right get-up.  You'll be relieved to know I didn't...

Day 26

MMJ: Day 26

Top: Sorbetto

Skirt: Beignet

Shoes: Clarks

Me-Made Category: Top, C as it's fresh off the machine, Skirt, A

Today was hot, hot, hot so I decided to give my new Sorbetto a spin.  I made this top with the intention of taking it on holiday so today's hot weather was a good practice run. Verdict?  Perfect, really cool in hot weather.  

I can't believe a whole month has almost gone by, every day of which I've been clad in my hand stitched clothes!  Happy Monday. x

MMJ: Days 19, 20, 21 and 22

This is a quick catch up to bring me right up to date with Me-Made-June…

Day 19

Blouse: Newly me-made Violet 

Skirt: The very first thing I ever made! It's New Look 6843, before I had a blog

Shoes: Hobbs

Me-Made Category: Blouse, C as it's only just been born, skirt, A

This skirt is a winter wool skirt which I had to retrieve from its packed-away state to combat the weather.  I've worn it to death, it's very plain but a really good fit, and it goes with everything.

Day 20

Blouse: Me-made Rabbit blouse

Skirt: Gap

Shoes: Marks and Spencer

Me-Made Category: B

I really like this blouse and will try to wear it more.  Not necessarily with this skirt though, I think just on the knee is a more flattering length for me.

Day 21

Blouse: Boden

Skirt: Me-made Beignet

Shoes: Clarks

Me-Made Category: A

My Beignet is fast becoming the skirt equivalent of my 1940's trousers.  A second version is right at the top of my list after MMJ is finished.

Day 22

Cardigan: John Smedley

Necklace: Superdrug (!)

Skirt: Another pre-blog make from New Look 6843

Shoes: Clarks

Me-Made Category: A

I made this skirt as an in-between project on my dressmaking course (we were supposed to make one garment per term but you know me, I wanted to gallop ahead.)  I'm amazed by how well made it is: perfectly constructed lining, invisible zip, cool waistband made from bias tape etc.  Beginner's luck I think!

In other news, I made my first Sorbetto top yesterday!  No photos yet, as London was engulfed in torrential rain all morning - so any pics would have come out pitch black.  And finally, I finished my Oolong Dress!!!!!   I'm just leaving it to hang before taking photos but I'm VERY pleased with it! x

Me-Made-June: Days Two, Three and Four

Good evening! Well we're now into day four of Me-Made-June and the excitement of finally taking part definitely hasn't worn off yet.  In fact I'm surprised by how much I'm enjoying it: both wearing Me-Made clothes every day and seeing what everybody else in the Me-Made community is wearing - I love it! Here's what's been happening for the past three days....

Day Two

MMJ: Day Two

Top: Monsoon

Skirt: Me-made Beignet

Shoes: Clarks 

(blatantly copied from Tilly after seeing hers at the Goldhawk Road meet-up!)

Me-Made Category: A

I wore this skirt all the time through the winter months as its perfect with tights.  I've never worn it bare legged before as I always felt the length was a bit knee revealing. But I suppose one of the aims of MMJ is to map uncharted territory so bare knees it was. And guess what?  Strangers didn't stop in the street and point at me, not even once...

Day Three

MMJ: Day Three

Dress: Me-Made Crepe dress

Me-Made Category: B

I've worn this dress twice.  Despite spending what seemed like weeks on end working on the fit of the bodice, it still doesn't feel like it fits properly on the shoulders. Once it's on though, it's wonderfully cool and swishy and was perfect for yesterday's sunny weather in London.  The MMJ Flickr Group mini-challenge for that day was to photograph ourselves spinning. Well, that should be easy in this dress, I thought.  Not quite.  My two 'helpers' thought it was absolutely hilarious seeing me spinning around like a lunatic in front of the camera and insisted on jumping into every shot!

Mum's finally lost it...

 Day Four

MMJ: Day Four

Blouse:  Me-Made from a 1950's pattern

Skirt: Me-Made Beignet

Shoes: Clarks

Me-Made Category: both A

Even though the blouse is a relative newcomer to my wardrobe, I've worn it quite a few times, which is a great result for something that started life as a muslin.  I loved wearing my Beignet so much on day two, I gave it another spin today. x

Finished Beignet!

Hoorah, at last I've finished my Beignet skirt from Collette Patterns and I'm SSOOO pleased with it.  

I made it in a navy cotton drill with red detailing.  The pattern was great to work with and I whipped through it, until I got to the section that made me break out in a cold sweat - the twelve buttons and buttonholes. I know some sewers have certain sewing tasks they hate/can't do very well - well buttons and buttonholes are definitely mine.  I took me almost the same amount of time to make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons than it did to sew the entire rest of the skirt.  I just about managed to get them done without ruining the whole thing, apart from one rogue one that unfortunately looks like the Frankenstein's monster of buttonholes. This was thanks to a last minute slip of the hand with the seam ripper (and yes, it was the LAST buttonhole after 11 perfect ones, sob!) Once the skirt is buttoned up though, you don't even notice it, as my husband helpfully told me whilst I was mopping up my tears.

Things I liked about this pattern:

1) The instructions.  As ever, lovely and clear and easy to follow.

2) The fit.  I cut out my size and didn't have to make one adjustment, it fitted me like a glove.  I know some bloggers have had problems with the fit, so I think my body shape and this style just happen to be a good match.  I'm on the curvy side so maybe this helps?

3) The design.  I love the way the skirt is put together, it's so clever.  I particularly like the facings (which I'm so pleased I made in a contrast fabric, thanks Tilly for the idea!) and the lining which neatly covers over all the seams underneath.

Look at the facing!

4) The fact that the skill level is Intermediate!  I'm feeling super pleased with myself about this one particularly!

Here's one last look at the contrasting pockets.

Gearing up for skirt making

I’ve been spending all my sewing time making stuff for xmas craft fairs recently and am starting to get withdrawal symptoms! When I was making my niece’s xmas dress last week I realised I’d been really missing it – I want to do some dressmaking.  There’s something about the whole ritual of cutting out a pattern, choosing fabric and making it up that’s far more satisfying than making endless purses and cushions (although I do enjoy that, just not for weeks on end).

As a result, I’ve got a backlog of patterns crying out to be made into clothes. Top of the list is the Beignet skirt from my favourite pattern designer – Colette Patterns.

I really could do with making it now, as it’s the sort of skirt I’d wear all winter, and the fabric I’ve bought is quite winter-friendly (a heavyish navy cotton drill).  I’ve seen some really inspiring versions of this skirt too, which has been making me even more impatient to sew it.   One of my favourites is the 70’s style denim skirt made by Tilly.  I’ll be copying her method of sewing the pockets and facing in a contrast fabric - red with white polka dots in this case. So here are the ingredients for my Beignet.  The only thing missing is the thin cotton navy lining but you get the idea…

 Aren’t the red buttons fab?  

I found them on a tiny little stall in Shepherd’s Bush market and there were only twelve left.  The Beignet skirt needs twelve buttons (a scary thought, all those buttonholes!) so that sealed their fate.  My plan is to cut it out next week...