1950's Roobeedoo Top

So called because it was the kind and generous Roobeedoo who immediately sent me her copy of McCall 6245 to trace, after I lusted after it on this blog post.

I made a muslin from the pattern beforehand and it seemed to be a good fit, so I steamed straight in and started hacking away at my precious Liberty Rocks fabric.  This fabric was designed for Liberty by ex-Stone Roses guitarist John Squire, and I just love it.  I'm always drawn to mid-century geometric patterns and this has all the elements of a 1950's print, yet manages to maintain a modern look too.  It was also my first time working with Liberty Tana Lawn.  Oooh it's lovely!  Buttery and silky to the touch and it barely frays.  That didn't stop me overlocking every seam I could get my hands on, just because I could.

The pattern, which dates from the early 1950's, reminds me a little of the Colette Patterns Sencha…. but better in my opinion!  Unlike the Sencha, it has separate sleeves rather than short kimono ones, and the neckline is lower and prettier with a very flattering triangular keyhole.  Then there are the darts …..I think the darts really make the pattern and show just how cleverly constructed it is.  As Roobeedoo pointed out here, the placement of two sets of double contour darts at the waist give you curves, even if you don't have any to start with!  And if you do have curves (as I do), then the dart placement simply makes them trimmer and more shapely.  All very, very clever.

Making this top was an interesting exercise size-wise too.  In ready to wear clothes, I'm usually a UK size 12.  I made no adjustments to this pattern - it's a perfect fit - yet it's a size 18…..fascinating to see just how much smaller women were in the 1950's compared to now.  I used to get very hung up about sizing, but now that I've been sewing for a while, I don’t even think about it.  As somebody once commented on another blog (can't remember which), sewing makes the numbers on a tape measure become meaningless. Never a truer word was spoken….

Anyway, back to the pattern.  It was actually quite handy that McCall 6245 is so similar to the Colette Sencha pattern - when one instruction for the back buttoned section was beginning to fox me, I simply looked in the Sencha instructions instead and it all made perfect sense!  Testament to Sarai's pattern writing skills there I think.  Talking of buttons up the back, do you like mine?  I used real shell vintage ones that I've been saving for just the right make.

I like the fact that this top has both a vintage and a modern look.  You can wear it with a vintage skirt or with jeans and I think it works well with both.  

Thank you so much Roobeedoo, I've now got a top that I love, which I wouldn't have had the opportunity to make without you.  As a final nod to Roo, you may be interested to know that I'm wearing a Rockalily lipstick in Rockette Red, as recommended by the good lady herself.  

 The King looks on approvingly....

It's a great 1950's red, just the right shade for pale faced blondes (like me) and makes you feel instantly glamorous.  A girl can never have too many red lippies!  Have a lovely weekend everybody. x

My Renfrew Top

I'm sure you've all read about the latest Sewaholic pattern to be released - The Renfrew Top.  I'm more excited than most because I was one of the lucky pattern testers, hooray!  It's wonderful to see it in its published state and I can guarantee you won't be disappointed.

The Renfrew is a casual top with three necklines (scooped, V or cowl) and three sleeve choices (long, short or three quarter) which makes it a great pattern for mixing and matching.  I chose to sew the long sleeved, scoop necked version and it also marked my joint first experience of sewing with a knit fabric (I made it at the same time as my Homage to Joan dress.)

In her pre-sew guidelines,  Tasia advised us to choose a stable knit with less than 5% spandex.  As Karen pointed out in her post on the Renfrew (cowl necked, three quarter sleeves and gorgeous - read all about it here), it's difficult to know how much spandex is in a knit or jersey fabric just by looking at it, and very few fabrics in shops or markets have the stretch content listed.  Because I wanted to do well for teacher/Tasia, I bought my fabric online from Calico Laine (double knit in 'petrol'), which helpfully lists the spandex content.  Ditto Fabrics has a good choice too. 

So how was it for me?  Well I've only sewn with a Sewaholic pattern once before - the Pendrell blouse - but I liked it so much I made it three times.  The Renfrew is just as well drafted, and the instructions are super clear and easy. Everything makes sense and the cuffs and waistband sections are a lovely touch that gives the top a professional finish.  Because I was still too much of a scaredy cat at this point, I chickened out of using my overlocker and sewed it on a normal sewing machine.  I told myself Tasia needed valuable feedback from non overlocker users....  For those of you without overlockers out there, you'll be pleased to know that it sews up like a dream.  I used a simple straight stitch throughout and a quick zigzag on the neckline. 

And very satisfying and quick to sew together it was too, it only took a couple of hours from start to finish.  Size-wise I cut a Sewaholic size 10 and made the same small hip adjustment I made to my Pendrell blouse.  The fit is good - snug without being too clingy.

Double knit is quite a thick fabric and with the cuffs and waistband, I initially thought the finished top looked a bit sweat-shirty.  I was also worried that the style was too casual.  Sometimes though, initial thoughts turn out to be wrong.  The double knit is flattering without clinging to every lump and bump like some knit fabrics do and it's SSOO cosy and warm.  This is a perfect top for layering and it seems to blend in with whatever you're wearing, be that jeans or a skirt.  

I really enjoyed being a pattern tester for Tasia  - she's a great woman to work with.  She's also very talented - what appears to be a plain, simple top has turned out to have far more oomph to it than I first imagined.  Tasia asked us to sew up the version we'd chosen exactly as written and that's what I did.  But the Renfrew is the perfect blank canvas for adding your own personal touch.  I've already got my next version lined up, in black and white stripes with a few tweaks.  Next time though, I'm going to try sewing the whole thing using my overlocker!  Have a lovely weekend.  x

The Renfrew pattern was given to me free of charge for pattern testing. All views my own.

Snood Update

It's official - snood frenzy has now infiltrated the teaching profession....

When I first sported my snood in public, it was immediately commented on by Linda, one of my son's teaching assistants.  Linda is a wonderful woman, not only does she do an amazing job teaching my son, but she happens to be pretty nifty with the knitting needles too.  Very impressively, she identified the wool (sorry, yarn) my snood was made from, just by looking at it!  I passed on the free pattern for her to try, and the rest as they say, is history.  Look at the result, doesn't she look gorgeous?

Snood accessorised with a brooch - now there's a good idea...

Inspired by the free snood pattern, she even made up her own-design snood in her knitting class: a knitted rectangle that fastens with a button.  Sometimes the simplest things are the most effective.

So that's one more to add to the World Map of Snoods methinks.  It can only be a matter of time before knitting a snood becomes part of the National Curriculum. x

Beignet in Black

I made my first Colette Patterns Beignet skirt over a year ago, and despite my best intentions a second version just never managed to make it onto my sewing table.  The shape is supremely flattering, it fits like a dream and it seems to go with any top, so why the digging in of heels?  I think it's because this is such a time consuming make... it's constructed in panels, it's fully lined, with facings, twelve buttons and button holes and six REALLY fiddly little belt loops.  Compared to the Ginger skirt, I'd say the Beignet takes about four times longer to make.  But it's definitely worth it in the end, I don't actually own a black skirt so this little madam will slot into my wardrobe perfectly.  It's really difficult to photograph a black skirt - nothing shows up!  These are the best of the lot...

Worn with its near relative - the Violet blouse

Not sure if a black and white version makes it better or worse?

I used gabardine for the main skirt and covered buttons, and silk cotton for the lining.  Gabardine is great to sew with and the perfect weight for this skirt.  One thing I love about my original Beignet is the contrast polka dot facings and pockets.  Why fiddle with something when it's already perfect, I asked myself?  So this one is also polka dot faced and pocketed. In my defence, I managed to stash bust the last of the fabric from my Violet blouse at the same time, which is good.

Contrast facing....

....and pockets, yay

I picked up the silk cotton lining on my visit to the Goldhawk Road with Suzie, Alana and Gail last week.  Yet another good thing about meeting up with fellow sewists is that they can lure you towards previously dismissed fabrics.  After my last encounter with silk lining, I was steering well clear of anything with silk in the title.  But Alana assured me that it sewed up like a dream so I went for it.  She was absolutely right, it really behaves itself and at £4 a metre (from Classic Textiles, on the left as you go in the door if you're interested) it's a lovely, affordable alternative to standard lining.

The pattern is so clever - I particularly like the way the lining and facing keep everything neat and out of sight.  Sewing the two opposite curves of the lining and facing together is a true test of sanity though - my only advice would be to do exactly what the pattern says.  You may think you know better (as I did) but in the end the steps in the pattern do make it easier.  And finally, I wrestled with my overlocker and managed to overlock all the seams.

Overlocked seams - aren't they gorgeous?

Much quicker and much more professional looking than usual.  Hoorah!  Have a great weekend. x

Giveaway Winners

Thank you to everybody who entered my New Year Giveaway.  I did use the random number generator thingy but couldn't get screen shots of it, you'll just have to take my word for it!   Back to business, the winners are....

Charlotte from Sew Far Sew Good, who wins the handmade dress, fabric and buttons,

Carly, from Carly Makes Stuff, who wins the pattern

and Reana Louise, from Curves, Patterns and Pins, who wins the John-Paul Flintoff book

Congratulations ladies!  Please e-mail me your addresses and I'll get them sent out,
I'll be back soon with my first make of the New Year!  x

New Year Giveaway!

One of my goals for this year is to pass on makes, patterns, fabrics etc that either just don't work for me for one reason or another or that I've finished with.  Instead of hanging on to them, I'd like to see them have a new lease of life with a shiny new owner.  So that's the theme of my giveaway, hopefully there will be something in here that floats your boat.

First is my McCall's 2401 dress, which I made when I was taking my dressmaking course.  

It's a lovely, simple style, but as I bemoaned in this post, it just seems to slip through the net for me when it comes to actually wearing it.  It's made from a quilting weight cotton which is a Liberty design, reissued for the V & A Quilting Exhibition in 2010.  It's a McCall's size 14, measurements from the back of the pattern being: 36in bust, 28in waist and 38in hips.  I took it in a tiny bit at the sides, but apart from that it's sewn up straight from the pattern.  The fabric has been washed once prior to making, and the dress has never been worn.  For this part of the giveaway, I'll also chuck in the rest of the fabric (roughly 57in wide x 19in high) and four covered buttons.  The buttons were originally attached to the front of the dress but have since been snipped off.  

Second up is Simplicity 6298 - a fab Go-Go boot-wearing dress pattern from 1965.  Yeah baby! The pattern is a size 14, 34 inch bust.

Finally, I'd like to offer my copy of this awesome book to one of my readers: Sew Your Own by Jean-Paul Flintoff.

I bought it after reading about it on Zoe's blog.  She subsequently managed to bag an interview with the author, which I highly recommend you check out.  If you're interested in general thrift, being a better consumer and finding out what drives people to investigate making their own clothes (as well as indulging in other crafts), then this is the book for you.  It's also fascinating to read about the experiences of a sewing 'dude'. As Zoe says, 'I'd be surprised if there was nothing you found in it which touched you.' 

To enter, just leave a comment after this post stating which part of the giveaway you're interested in (you're more than welcome to enter all three parts). The giveaway is open worldwide and closes at midnight GMT on Wednesday 11th January.  The winner will be chosen at random after this date and notified by e-mail. 

Good luck everybody! x

Looking ahead to 2012

Before I look ahead, I'd like to very briefly look back.  In terms of making my own clothes, 2011 far surpassed my expectations.  From an initial optimistic list of just over half a dozen garments at the beginning of the year, I ended up making:

Seven dresses

Ten tops

Two pairs of trousers

Five skirts

One jacket

Total: 25 garments!  

I blogged recently about the five items in my wardrobe that I turn to again and again, which seem to sum up my personal style.  However, the item that wasn't on that list, probably because it was a bit too special-occasion, was my Oolong dress and I think it deserves a mention.

I struggled with both the silk lining (soon abandoned for a muslin underlining) and the bias cut on this dress.  But on both counts, I received amazing feedback and advice from my readers, enabling me to finish the dress and giving me a much needed lesson in patience.  I've worn it on three occasions, and every time I've known that it's the most perfect dress I could have chosen.  Praise indeed!  

So what else has been going on this year?  Well, the main change I've made is to have kept to my initial six month Wardrobe Refashion pledge for virtually the whole year.  The exceptions being a few items of knitwear and one pair of trousers I bought with a birthday voucher (does that count?)  As a result, the distance between the items in my wardrobe which are handmade and those that are shop-bought has narrowed considerably.  I'm also pretty ruthless about throwing out shop bought garments that don't make the grade. I'd really like to continue in this vein for 2012, so here's a rough list of plans (not resolutions!) for the coming year:

To use as much of my stash as I can

A no brainer really but perhaps writing it down will actually help me keep to it!

To refashion the handmade garments that haven't quite worked

There are one or two things that haven't been a success for one reason or another, so if I can, I'll be refashioning them to get them to work.

To give away the garments that I've never worn

In a few rare instances, the item I've made is just wrong for me and will never be worn (I'm thinking of my ladylike dress here) so I'll be giving them away.  Far better to let somebody else get some use out of it, than have it sadly neglected in the wardrobe, never seeing the light of day.  So watch out for a New Year giveaway along these lines.  

To treat my vintage patterns with a bit more care and respect  

Ahem. Yes I really need to work on this one.  Buying them all nice new plastic covers would be a good start.  I'd also like to try to date the elusive ones.  

To try a few new sewing techniques  

I'm thinking specifically of piping here though I'll try anything that takes my fancy.

To get to grips with my overlocker

This really should be top of my list as it's non-negotiable!  The lovely Lauren recommended this book which is FAB - it goes through all the basics, as well as demonstrating all the other uses an overlocker has.  It's perfect and I'm hoping it will help me to use my overlocker for more than just neatening seams. 

To really think about what I want to make and what I'm likely to wear  

This will almost certainly result in me making fewer garments, but I'd like to really take my time with them, perfecting the fit and finish as much as I possibly can.  In terms of what I make, I'll be keeping the faith with Colette patterns and fully intend to dabble with vintage patterns again.  I'll choose carefully next year though - only making the garments I really lust after.  Like this Economy Print dress on the right hand side.  

And this McCall's 6245 top, which Roobeedoo very kindly let me borrow and copy. Don't you just love sewing bloggers?!  

To make more dresses  

Yes, I know I made seven last year, but I do love dresses, and having met Roisin from Dolly Clackett and swapped dress notes, I feel that a few more than seven is a mere drop in the ocean.....!

So there you have my plans, they're a bit all over the place but I think that makes them a little more attainable.  Thank you to everybody who has taken the time to read my blog and to comment or correspond with me during the past year - I really have loved every minute of it.  I'd like to wish you all a very happy and healthy new year.  Enjoy your new sewing year, wherever you are. x