I promised you a giveaway...

Just over a year ago, I tentatively wrote my first blog post on my then fledgling blog, little knowing what an important part of my life it was soon to become.  Over the past year I've really enjoyed having a blog and posting my handmade efforts onto the blogosphere.  As well as increasing my sewing productivity about twenty-fold, having a blog has also completely changed my approach to clothes purchasing and consumerism in general.

But perhaps the best part of having a blog has been the on-line (and off-line) friendships I've made.  The on-line sewing community is just awesome: I've been inspired beyond belief by so many of you and the feedback and encouragement I've received in turn has been wonderful.  I've also had the pleasure of meeting a few of you in 'real life' and let me tell you, you do not disappoint!  I'm honoured to count a few of you amongst my true friends - you know who you are.

So as a thank you for your amazing support during my first blogging year, I'd like to announce a rather special giveaway - the lucky winner will receive a copy of The Colette Sewing Handbook.  

It's not published in the UK until the beginning of December but I can't think of a better Christmas present for a sewing blogger.

For those of you who've been inhabiting another planet for the past few months, The Colette Sewing Handbook is the first book from Sarai Mitnick of Colette patterns.  At the last count, I've made nine Colette pattern garments, and have many more I'd like to sew, so you could say I'm a fan.  I hope you are too, as the book contains five beautiful new patterns for modern classic pieces.

Licorice Dress

Pastille Dress

Truffle Dress

Taffy Blouse and Meringue Skirt

With their trademark easy-to-understand instructions and focus on a wonderful fit and finish, what's not to like?

To enter this giveaway all you need to do is be a follower of my blog (I think that's only fair, as some of you have been loyally following me right from the start) and to leave a comment on this post.  The giveaway is open worldwide and closes at midnight GMT on Friday 28th October. The winner will be chosen at random after this date and notified by e-mail.  The book will be posted to you as soon as it's published.  Good luck everybody and thanks once again for your support. x

Jacket fitting delights

I'm steaming through my autumn to-sew list (which admittedly only had three items on it) and am now fully engulfed in the delights of jacket fitting...

As this is my first time making a jacket, I thought I'd better break my bad, dirty habit of winging it with patterns and make a practice muslin first.  I'm using a pattern from the Built By Wendy Coats and Jackets book.  Even though there are 23 different variants of coats and jackets to choose from, in typical annoying fashion the one I have in my head isn't there, so I'll be mixing the jacket and collar of two different patterns.  There might not be a pattern for my imaginary jacket in the book, but I did find a drawing:

Very plain and uncluttered, with princess seams and a classic collar.  Nice.

So, going by the size chart, I cut out a medium jacket and sewed it together.  One word of warning for anybody interested in trying out this book: the patterns run small.  I'm a UK size 12 top, sometimes even a 10 depending on the style, and I'm short (5' 2").  So any tall or busty sewists (or even tall AND busty sewists for that matter) beware of the chest width and length of these patterns.  Admittedly there are no seam allowances on the hem, but the shortness of this first effort does make me look like some hideous mother of the bride

WAY too short, and not in a cool, Sammy Davis Jnr kind of short…

No, more like this pair….

As well as being too short, it also didn't fit across the bust.  There will be a button extension added but it was still too tight.  And as for the back.....

Imagine stretching for something on a shelf in a shop?  Not a pretty sight.

Much as it killed me to do so, I decided a redraft was called for. and heart breakingly, a second muslin.  I made the following changes:

- Added five inches to the length.

- Measured the distance it gaped apart at the bust, divided it by four and added it to the side seams as advised in the book.

- The second attempt was much better but the shoulders seemed large, so I made a small vertical tuck right down the back and that seemed to do the trick.

These muslins are shockingly unflattering, but I've managed to see past the cream calico and imagine it in a lovely grey wool with a teal satin lining.  So far so good.  The next steps for me now are to cut out the final pattern pieces, draft the facings and put scissors to cloth (gulp).   I'm liking the look of it so far though.  x

Finished Sailor Trousers

Hoorah, I'm happy to show you my second ever pair of me-made trousers and I must say, I'm pretty pleased with them.  I did have reservations about the frumpiness of Simplicity 2654, but having decided to copy Christi's masterstroke of replacing the strange front tabs with vintage buttons, I felt reasonably confident they would turn out OK.  

There were no horrors lurking in the pattern instructions, and they came together pretty easily.  Because of my inherent laziness, I've now got away with not making a muslin for the past five garments I've sewn.  Tut tut.  I just got away with it on this occasion, but my luck must be about to run out soon. I cut a 14 and the fit was a little tight.  I did notice that the tucks at the front were quite generous so simply reduced the width of them and they were instantly roomier.  However, this was done before my operation and I must have lost a few pounds since then, as they're now a big baggy. Doh!  Nothing a hook and eye won't put right - when I can bring myself to sew one on (shudder).  There's nothing more tedious than sewing on hooks and eyes, I hate them!

I cut them straight from my (ahem) blue/black twill and although the drape is really lovely and heavy making them hang beautifully, the fabric itself is disappointingly cheap and nasty.  There's a pretty high polyester content in it and it frays like nothing you've ever seen.  To make sure my seams didn't unravel the minute I wore them I had to zigzag them on the smallest stitch size, which took forever. Hence the immediate purchase of an overlocker.  So no more of that tedious zigzag nonsense thank you (once I've plucked up the courage to actually use it that is!)

So, what do I like about the trousers?  Well, I like the fact that there's a facing rather than a separate waistband. 

The other pair of high waisted trousers I've made do have a separate waistband  which tends to dig in uncomfortably whenever you eat anything.  I'm also hoping that this style will be a little more forgiving after a mammoth pie eating session... 

And finally, the buttons... If ever there was a case for the simplest addition completely lifting a garment to a new level then this is it. 

Ooh look, gingham pockets too!

They really do transform the look of the trousers so thank you so much Christi for the original inspiration.  I've a feeling they're going to be worn a lot.

Next up is my Autumn jacket, which sadly I will have to make a muslin for.  Happy Wednesday everybody. x

Liberty Rocks

Hello and thank you so much for all your good wishes.  I'm almost running at full pelt again, with a shiny new computer and a rather large scar on my neck.  I'm not quite feeling up to modelling my newest make (fab sailor trousers) but promise to show them off next week.  In the meantime I wanted to show you two sublime fabrics I bought recently on a trip to Liberty.

My friend Emma completely loves anything to do with birds, her entire house is bird themed (in a good way though, not in a weird Norman Bates way...)

so when I heard about the new Liberty Rocks collection I knew exactly which fabric had her name on it.  This latest collection has been designed by musicians and artists and is well worth a look - the prints are not only beautiful, but refreshingly different from the usual Liberty Tana Lawn (lovely though it is).  The print I bought for Emma was designed by Edwyn Collins formerly front man for Orange Juice and latterly successful solo artist.  In 2005, at the age of just 45, Edwyn suffered a severe stroke and was unable to move, speak, read or write.  As part of his long rehabilitation he re-learnt how to draw, and was soon drawing a bird a day, many of which are included on this amazing fabric design. 

I recently read the book Falling and Laughing written by his partner, Grace Maxwell, which outlines the whole story.  Through sheer iron will and determination he gradually begins to regain some of the abilities he lost overnight.  This was a man who used to devour Russian literature and who now had to be taught to read again with Peter and Jane books.  I couldn't put it down - it's a very inspiring read.

Anyway, back to the fabric, my birthday present to Emma was a metre of the Edwyn Collins Ornithology fabric and a promise to make her something from it.  It's very bird heavy (which is kind of the point, I know) but I'm sure will look fab as a sleeveless top or even a skirt - and before you start worrying, Emma is tiny so one metre will be plenty.

Whilst I was swooning over the collection, one fabric just leapt out at me so I had no choice but to give it a good home.

It's actually a bit more colourful in real life

It's designed by artist John Squire (who used to be in The Stone Roses don't you know). It's very plain and grey and charcoally but I really love the simple geometric design.  I think it will end up as another Violet blouse, it's crying out to be made into something vintage inspired and Peter Pan collared.  Yes, Liberty fabric is expensive, but sometimes a girl needs to treat herself.  I'm getting quite excited about it already... x

Reasons for radio silence...

My beloved laptop was officially declared dead as a dodo on Sunday, which is one of the reasons I've been a bit quiet recently.  I'm writing this at the library, but being a technical idiot, I'm afraid these few paragraphs are the best I can offer when it comes to blog posting skills outside the home.  Even though I've got tons of things to share with you (new fabric purchases for starters) and show off about (recently finished sailor trousers), I'll be taking a short break from blogging until my new computer is delivered and installed.  This also coincides with my having to undergo a minor op next week (nothing serious, honest!)

I'll be back once we're both (the computer and I) back up and running.  Don't go away though, once I'm back I'll be celebrating my one year blog anniversary with the best giveaway ever. Looking forward to catching up with you all then.  Have a lovely weekend. Jane x

Autumnal Traveler Dress

I’m back at the sewing machine and loving every minute of it!  So here’s the first of my autumn makes: the Lisette Traveler Dress, view A.  

I used my 1930’s-look floral charity shop fabric and was very sceptical as to how it would turn out.  Having now strutted around in it for a day, I’m finally getting used to it, but more on that later…. 

The Lisette 2246 Traveler Dress pattern is a lovely, lovely pattern to sew. It’s brilliantly drafted and the instructions are a delight – clear, simple and workable.  I can see what other bloggers are talking about when they wax lyrical about Lisette patterns - I can’t recommend this one highly enough.

Having heard that these patterns run quite large, I cut a size 12, even though my measurements actually belong in the size 14 column.  I also decided to try the Miss Petite option on the pattern, which basically takes in a one inch tuck right across the pattern pieces, shortening the bodice length as well as the actual finished dress length.  This was a good move as the final fit of the dress is just what I wanted – fitted but casual.  I did a tissue fitting on my dummy and the only bit that slightly worried me was the bust.  In the end it just about fits across the bust but it’s a close call.  I could probably have done with an extra inch or two in that area but it doesn’t gape open so I can live with that. Sewing it together was a dream, there wasn’t one bit that didn’t make absolute sense and I even learnt a new skill - how to make shaped pockets.

Pockets!!

The vintage fabric is great to sew with – it barely frayed at all. It has quite a weight to it - almost like a quilting cotton – not drapey at all, but that actually works well with the style of this dress. I finished the dress off with cream vintage buttons from my stash (the red ones I originally chose became completely lost in the busy floral of the fabric).

It works well with a belt too

So back to the fabric …. it’s not so much the floral overload that the jury’s out about (I love floral prints, especially 1930’s inspired ones, and have sewn a lot with them), it’s more the colours.  Those of you who have followed my blog for a while know I’m not exactly known for my adventurous colour selection.  In fact if I was told I was only allowed to make clothes using navy, blue/green, grey and red fabric forever, it wouldn’t bother me in the slightest.  This fabric has colours that don’t ever appear on my radar: pink, purple and, wait for it, orange.  All warm hues when my personal colour palette is cold, cold, cold.  Despite all this, I’m still drawn to the fabric and the style of the dress is very me, so I know I’ll wear it a lot this autumn.  Now I just need to buy co-ordinating tights in every hue …. x

Chic on a Shoestring

Helloo!!  I’m now back from my fabulous holiday, where I spent a relaxing week making sandcastles and not much else, pure bliss.  Now we're back though, I'm literally counting the hours until my two go back to school so I can get cracking with some sewing.  In the interim I’ve been catching up on my sewing book reading.  I’m a tad impulsive with sewing books and tend to order them in a mad frenzy; some of the time I’m disappointed, but I struck lucky with my latest purchase….

Chic on a Shoestring is the sort of book you can sit down with, cup of tea in hand and be inspired to want to try every single project in it.  The book is exactly what the title suggests.  Written by ex-milliner and vintage lover Mary Jane Baxter, it shows how you can give your existing clothes and accessories a vintage-style look with bits of haberdashery from your stash.  There are also tons of ideas for refashioning existing pieces. My favourites are the simple scarf turned into a halter neck top…

and the glamour-puss turban made from an old T-shirt, both just gorgeous.

I’ve mentioned before on this blog how little vision I have when it comes to refashioning clothes, so this is the perfect book for me.  If you like vintage style or you simply want to breath new life into frumpy old clothes, then this book will almost certainly have a stylish solution.  Bored with your old cardigan?  Just change the buttons for vintage ones.  Easy peasy.

I’ve already completed my first project: a retro headband:

Once the pieces were cut out, it probably took about 15 minutes to sew together and although I think it would look better with a vintage buckle (which sadly I didn’t have knocking around) I’m pleased with how wearable it is.

I might add a buckle when I find one, to give this headband more of a retro look

Chic on a Shoestring is a lovely book.  Well written with clear instructions and packed full of beautiful, easy-to-make projects, it's definitely one for the sewing room bookshelf.  Happy Monday everybody. x