Vintage red dress

After a mini splurge at EmSewCrazy recently, this vintage beauty fell into my hands. It's Butterick 8629 from 1959 - a simple sheath dress with 'figure following lines' (love that description) and kimono sleeves. I was inspired to make a red version of view B after seeing Kathryn's beautiful red Annalotte dress. The bodice section on the Butterick pattern is a little like the By Hand London Anna pattern (minus the tucks), so this seemed to be a sign for me to blatantly copy her.

The pattern is a vintage size 16, which sometimes fits me, it all depends on the year. In this case the bust was fine (36) but the waist and hips needed a lot taking off. Working on this dress was the first chance I've had to use the skills I learnt at the Pattern Drafting weekend and it was a success of sorts! I laid my block on top of the pattern and shaped it to match up with the Butterick pattern. Straight away, I could see that my main adjustments would be to shorten the bodice by an inch, and to take a whopping seven inches off the length of the skirt section! I also changed the darts to match the darts on my bodice block, which wasn't quite so successful. In fact the bust darts are still wonky - I gave up after about 20 attempts to get them right - I'll have to come back to them in a few days time! It isn't perfect and I did need to make quite a few on-the-spot fitting adjustments after the initial muslin. but I'm quite pleased with it for a first attempt.

Once I was happy with the fit, the dress was 'Quick 'N Easy' to make, just like it says on the packet! The fabric I used is a crepe-backed satin kindly supplied by Minerva Crafts as part of their Blogger Network. Now I'd read lots of great reviews about this fabric, but annoyingly in this case, I ordered the wrong one. The fabric I ordered is from their general crepe-backed satin range, which is perfectly fine, but the fabric everybody has been raving about is their Prada self-lined crepe. DOH! Despite this, the fabric I used is ideal for a party dress, although the crepe side probably has more of a sheen to it than I was expecting. It also sheds fibres faster than the speed of light, so be prepared for lots of sweeping up if you use it! The most fortuitous thing about it though is that it has a slight stretch, which means I can just about get the dress on WITHOUT A ZIP!! Talk about a result! Getting it over the chest area is a bit of a tight squeeze, but the built-in satin lining actually aids this process.

I dispensed with facings and made self-binding instead, using the sating side so the binding matched up with the inside 'lining' of the dress. I actually cut the binding strips on the straight grain rather than the bias - the slight stretch of the fabric means it's still able to curve around the neckline but it doesn't stretch out too much, which was my worry. It seemed to work anyway!

Inside view: neckline finished with satin binding

This is a beaut of a vintage pattern - simple and elegant with that unmistakable late 1950's look I love. Once I've nailed the fit on those pesky darts, I can definitely see myself making it again.

My impression of the lady on the pattern envelope...

Talking of vintage patterns, this is my third and final make for my Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge, hosted by Marie at A Stitching Odyssey. I pledged to sew three vintage patterns in 2014 and that's what I've done! The other two are my raincoat from 1973 and my white 1950's sleeveless blouse, so I now have a vintage trio for 2014 of red, white and blue. Purely unintentional I swear!

Have a good weekend! x

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Finished: Denim Shirt Dress

After the endless denim talk on my blog recently, I thought I'd better show you my first (but definitely not my last!) denim make of the year - a denim shirt dress using McCall's 6696. I decided on this pattern after being completely bowled over by Sew Dixie Lou's summery sleeveless version. I didn't want to wait until summer to make it though - I needed a dress that I could wear during the day with boots and tights - and that's when the idea for a denim shirt dress was born.

For fabric I used a dark, dress weight denim from Minerva Crafts which I initially thought might be a bit too stiff, but it actually behaved itself perfectly whilst I was making the dress. The sturdiness of the fabric ensured everything matched up and the seams and darts were easy to press flat. The pattern was also a delight to use - I went for view D, which features a straight skirt with inset pockets and longer sleeves. I measured all the pattern pieces beforehand (as advised by Clare) and was satisfied that the size 14 would be the right fit. I also seem to have cunningly side stepped the whole issue of a FBA with this dress as the pattern allows for different cup sizes. Separate bodice pieces are given depending on the difference between your high bust measurement and your full bust measurement. Please note: the cup sizes on this pattern are NOT the same as bra cup sizes so you'll need to measure yourself carefully to see which bodice piece you need. I  cut a straight size 14 all over and a C cup. The only change I made to the pattern pieces was to shorten the skirt by 2.5 inches.

I really like most of the features on this dress but there are still a couple of things that the jury's out about. After sewing up the original pointy cuffs, I decided they looked way too pointy pointy and alien-like, so swapped them for straight ones. ("Pointy birds, pointy, pointy. anoint my head, anointy, nointy"- five gold stars to anyone who can tell me which film that line is from….) The gathered back also takes a bit of getting used to - I do like a yoke and a few gathers, but this is maybe a gather too far. Despite the good fit across the bust (hoorah), the lower bodice feels a bit baggy and is a looser fit than I'm used to. After a bit of pondering, I left the bodice as it was and it hasn't killed me, it's actually really comfortable to wear. This is supposed to be a dress version of a pair of jeans after all. If in doubt, I can always add a belt...

Taking my own advice from my Tips for Sewing with Denim post, I used contrasting cotton poplin (last seen on my blue rose drawstring top ) for the pockets and under collar.

Contrast pocket, you can just see the straight cuff too

If I'd had a bit more fabric to spare, I would have cut the inner yoke and waistband pieces from it too, which would have made the inside even prettier. It's slightly annoying that the under collar is actually visible when I wear the dress. For some reason I was thinking it would be buttoned up to the neck. Why? Why? It's a well known fact that I hate anything too tight around the neck. I'm such a dumbo sometimes!

The instructions call for the front band to be attached to the top and bottom of the dress with a few slip stitches, which wasn't going to satisfy me, The front bands and the waistband were all firmly topstitched into submission. One good thing about sewing with denim is that you can never have enough topstitching. The more you add, the better your garment looks!

Top stitched front bands and vintage buttons

I'm really happy with the end result, I now have a dress that fits well, is super comfortable and made of denim. What more could you ask for?! If you'd like to make a denim shirt dress of your own, you can buy a Minerva kit comprising two metres of medium weight, indigo denim (the fabric is wide so I was able to cut out the whole long sleeved dress from two metres), McCalls 6696 and matching denim thread. If you plan on top stitching the life out of your dress then you may wish to purchase additional denim thread as I ran out half way through.

Happy Friday everybody!  x

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Kimono sleeved polka dot top

This is the kind of knit top I'm a bit short of in my wardrobe: one that's comfortable, but can also be dressed up when necessary. I don't know what it is about this pattern, (maybe it's the kimono sleeves?) but it definitely feels like it's a notch up from a plain old sweatshirt. The pattern I used was Burda 09/2011 108A  which I've used once before for my striped kimono top.

This is so, so easy to make it's ridiculous, even more so if you're not pattern matching stripes. It probably takes about half an hour maximum to sew together. Well it would have if I hadn't encountered a few neckband issues along the way. I'll spare you the gory details but in short, I ended up having to unpick the neckband I'd overlocked in place. I then went back to my original plan, which was to turn under the neckband and stitch. The result was plain and simple (although admittedly, a bit baggier than when I started) but it looks absolutely fine.

I made a few other small changes to the pattern from last time. I lowered the neckline slightly, took a chunk of about four inches off the length (the top is very long in its original state) and lengthened the sleeves by two inches to make them wrist length.

The fabric - a white jersey knit with large black polka dots - is quite a bit stretchier than the striped jersey I used for my first version. I used the same size for both tops (size 38) but this one came out a lot baggier, probably because the fabric wasn't quite as clingy. I shaved about ⅜" from the shoulder seams and around the sides and this improved the fit. I sewed the whole top on my overlocker, apart from the hems and neckline which were topstitched with a twin needle.

This top is my December make for the Minerva Craft Blogger Network. If you'd like to make your own version, Minerva has put together a kit which you can buy here, comprising 2m of white polka dot jersey fabric and matching thread. Two metres is probably quite generous, but I always err on the side of caution with kimono sleeves as the pattern pieces eat up a lot of fabric.

Despite the misbehaving neckline, I really like this top. I've been wearing it for the past couple of days and because it's such a neutral palette of black and white, it teams up well with any colour of cardigan. Hoorah! x

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Lady Skater dress

My November make for the Minerva Blogger Network is the Lady Skater dress by Kitschy Coo.  The Skater Dress was originally released as a children's pattern, but so many people asked owner Amanda  to make a larger version that she eventually caved in and drafted a grown-up version for us Lay-dees. I'm so glad she did because for me, finding this pattern was like finding the Holy Grail. I'm really not joking either - I've been on the hunt for a basic knit dress pattern forever. I mucked about with the Colette Peony pattern in the past (here and here) and to be fair, I was more than happy with the results. Both dresses get a lot of wear, the problem was that I felt I was floundering a bit during the sewing process and very much making it up as I went along. Having a perfectly drafted pattern that ticks these boxes, along with excellent online instructions, has made this dress an absolute BREEZE to sew by comparison.

You choose your size according to your high bust and high waist measurements. Annoyingly, I was slap bang in the middle of a size 4 and a size 5, so blended between the two sizes, cutting a 4 around the waist, hips and neck, and a 5 in the bust area. Amazingly, this seemed to work! Amanda strongly advises making a test muslin of the bodice fit, which for once, I fully intended to do, but the fit was pretty good so I just steamed ahead. I added clear elastic at the shoulder and waist seams as directed and they really help give the dress shape and hold the weight of the fabric. The other thing I've always struggled with when sewing knits is the neckline. They're either stretched, or too baggy, or just plain rubbish. The neckline instructions on this pattern are ACE.

The only changes I made to the pattern were to shorten the arms to allow for my T Rex affliction and to shorten the skirt very slightly. There's a super helpful bit in the pattern that indicates exactly how long the dress is in its original state. If you're interested, it's designed to just hit the knee if you're 5'5".

For fabric, I used a medium/heavy weight Ponte Roma jersey in Forest, which is a lovely quality. Soooo smooth and silky, I keep having to stop myself stroking it, it's so touchable. If you fancy making your own knit dress, then you can purchase the Lady Skater dress kit from Minerva Crafts here. The kit comprises 2m of Roma jersey in Forest, matching thread and a pack of clear elastic. This amount of fabric is enough to make a size 5, long sleeved Skater Dress and a practice bodice if you're that way inclined.

Now that I've made this once, I can see this pattern being my go-to winter dress pattern.  It's comfortable, sassy and SSOOO easy to wear, I love it! In true Lady Skater style, I leave you with my very best Jayne Torvill impression…. x

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Minerva Blogging Network: easy elastic waist skirt

This month's Minerva Craft Blogger Network project is an easy peasy skirt. All that's required is a rectangle of fabric and a length of elastic. And what's more I'm going to show you how to make it.

The decision to make this skirt was made when I bought a couple of metres of awesome two inch wide polka dot elastic from Walthamstow market. I was with So Zo, who was looking for wide elastic to make her husband some undies. I spied it amongst the selection and had to have it, despite having no clue what to make with it.

Whilst I was thinking of clothes to take with me on holiday last month, I realised I needed a simple skirt I could pull on over a swimsuit and suddenly thought of the perfect use for my elastic. A gathered skirt with an elastic waist may not be everybody's idea of fashionable elegance - whilst I was researching methods of making it, 90% of the skirts I saw were for toddlers… But for a quick, easy holiday make they're great - no fiddling with fastenings at the pool and comfortable to wear over a swimsuit. Yes, I know summer's over now but I got my months mixed up when I was planning my Minerva sewing projects so here it is now in sunny er September! 

Like the idea? Good, here's how to make one.

You will need

One metre of your chosen fabric*

One metre of two inch wide elastic

*I chose a cotton jersey for my skirt as I wanted a stretch version, but this would work equally well with a cotton woven too.

1. First you need to measure your hips. Multiply this measurement by 1.5 and you have the width of your fabric. My hips are 37 inches, so the width of my fabric is 56 inches (I rounded it up). Then decide how long you want your skirt. I wanted mine pretty short, so the skirt in the tutorial is 19 inches long.

2. Finish one of the bottom edges of the rectangle (I overlocked mine). Turn up ½ inch, press and hem.

3. Fold the rectangle of fabric in half widthways with right sides together, so the two shorter edges meet. Sew this seam using a half inch seam allowance. You now have a tube skirt!

EDIT: As I used a knit fabric for this tutorial, I didn't need to finish the top edge of the skirt, if you're using a woven fabric, you may wish to finish the top edge now to prevent fraying. You can finish it using a zigzag stitch, an overlocker or simply turn and hem. Thank you to Scruffy Badger for bringing this to my attention, you can see what a finished top edge looks like on her post here. 

4. Sew a row of long, gathering stitches along the top, unhemmed edge of the tube (don't backstitch at each end!) Divide your tube of fabric into quarters with pins. I did photograph this step but you can't really see anything so you'll just have to imagine it.

5. Now we need to attach the elastic. Measure your waist, add ½ inch and cut the elastic to this measurement. Sew the two ends together with a zig-zag stitch using a ½ inch seam allowance. 

Press open. You may also wish to backstitch a few times for security. 

Divide your elastic into quarters with pins.

6. Put your skirt and elastic together - you want the wrong side of the elastic to face the right side of the skirt. There will be a lot more skirt than elastic at this point. Your goal is to match up the four pins on the elastic with the four pins on the fabric tube. Gently pull up your gathering stitches so that the fabric is evenly distributed. Pin together using as many pins as necessary.

This is what it should look like once the fabric is evenly distributed

7. Sew right around the waistband with a zig-zag stitch, keeping close to the bottom edge.  

Outside view of sewn waistband

Inside view of sewn waistband

Ta-da - you have yourself a skirt!

If you fancy making a similar skirt for yourself, or indeed, your toddler, Minerva Crafts have put together a simple kit. The kit comprises a metre of red cotton jersey and matching thread, which you can purchase here. They don't stock polka dot elastic, but they do stock standard two inch elastic which you can find here. Happy sewing! x

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Simplicity sundress

I'm really thrilled to share my newest creation with you today as it's my first project for the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. 

When the UK finally started enjoying some proper sunshine this year, I realised there was a sundress-shaped gap in my wardrobe. By sundress, I mean something light with straps to keep you cool in the boiling sun. I have one dress of that description - my Colette Patterns Parfait - which is a fabulous workhorse of a dress, but I fancied a change in style. I'd pinned this lovely fifties vintage dress to Pinterest as inspiration and although I knew I didn't want the skirt on mine to be as full, I really wanted to recreate the neat, fitted bodice and contrast white bodice band. 

To do this I chose Simplicity 2176, which as sundress patterns go, is about as traditional as they come. It has a lovely, princess seamed bodice, a pleated skirt and endless strap combinations. As I outlined in this post, I'm not a natural wearer of pleats and thought long and hard about whether to include them or not. In the end I decided to just go for it and embrace the old fashioned look of the pattern.

As it's a warm weather dress, I chose a linen-look cotton in Royal Blue from Minerva Crafts. This fabric is fab: it's 100% cotton, drapes beautifully and has the look and feel of linen without all the tiresome creases. I underlined it to make it a bit more opaque using white silk cotton, and used white piqué fabric for the outer bodice band, both from my stash. I love the contrast of colours, they just look so fresh together.

There were no nasty surprises lurking in the instruction sheet and it all came together without incident - a lovely, easy make. Accustomed as I am to Simplicity patterns having way too much ease in them. I cut a size 12. Annoyingly, this pattern seems to be pretty true to its measurements and the bodice ended up a bit tight. Grrr! I reduced the side seam allowances which makes it a lot more comfortable to wear, but the bodice rides a bit higher than my natural waist because my boobs take up too much space! It's my own fault for being so lazy in the first place and not making a muslin - next time I'll definitely need to do a FBA! It's totally wearable as it is though and although I'm still getting used to the look of the pleats I do like them.  

Because of the pleats and neat bodice, this dress feels very ladylike - I should be wearing it with proper heels and gloves. In real life, I'll probably wear it with flip flops or wedges. Anyway, mission accomplished and I now have a sundress to add to my summer wardrobe.

If you fancy making your own sundress, Minerva Crafts have put together a great kit which you can purchase here. The kit comprises a copy of Simplicity 2176, two metres of Royal Blue linen-look cotton, matching thread and a 14 inch dress zip. Happy sewing! 

The kit was given to me free of charge as part of the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network. All views my own.

Minerva Blogging Network

You may have seen on a couple of other sewing blogs that the Minerva Crafts Blogger Network has just officially launched. Yippee! And I'm very excited to confirm that I'm one of the bloggers in the network! 

The way the Blogger Network works is that every month we're each given a generous budget and are allowed to choose whatever we like from the 1000's of craft products on the Minerva Crafts website. Sound good? Yes, I thought so too! We then have to create our projects each month which are shared on the Minerva Blogger Network site, on our own blogs and on the Minerva craft community website Look What I've Made.  Whatever we choose for our projects each month is also made up into little kits which are available to purchase. 

And just look at the company I'm in!! 

The other bloggers are:

Anna from Paunnet

Clare from Sew Dixie Lou

Dibs from Dibs and the Machine

Kathryn from Yes I Made That

Rachel from House of Pinheiro

Shivani from Pins and Needles 

and last but not least... Winnie from Scruffy Badger Time!

It's such a wonderful concept, I'm really flattered and delighted to be part of this network at the start. The best bit is that we really can make whatever we like. So even though this will be a great opportunity to acquire a few patterns from my wish list and sew them up, I've also got a couple of craft projects up my sleeve, along with a tutorial for a super easy item of clothing.  Look out for my first post which goes live on Friday 23rd August where I'll be making a weather appropriate sundress!

Thank you so much Minerva Crafts for inviting me to be part of such an exciting challenge. And thank you also to Rachel from House of Pinheiro who helped mastermind the whole thing. Is there anything that woman can't do? Answer: no!

I promise my next post will involve gingham! x