Wednesday 9 September 2015

Finished: Made Up Vintage Blouse

Yay!!! All done and finished and I have to say it is a massive relief. That's the last time I'll take on a sewing challenge during the school holidays! I can't seem to concentrate properly when I only have small pockets of time to work with, and consequently there was a lot of faffing around and unpicking with this blouse.


I've sewn the pattern twice before (here and here) so dived into the project thinking I could just cut it out and sew it up. What I failed to account for is how my tastes have changed in the four years since I last had this pattern in my clutches. Although I still absolutely love working with vintage patterns, I've had to accept that I can't pull off that authentic head-to-toe vintage look that seems to come naturally to other people. It's much more effective in the long run for me to take a vintage pattern and make a few adjustments so that the finished garment works better with my modern wardrobe. So that's what I did with my 1930's blouse. The small changes I made have allowed me to style it with modern separates and accessories and it will get a lot more wear this way.


As I outlined in this post, I changed the blouse from sleeved to sleeveless because of lack of fabric. The original sleeves had quite a lot of extra ease in the shoulders plus they had cuffs, so a sleeveless version will actually be far more practical underneath a cardigan. I also increased the height of the trucks at the front so that they opened up at the bustline, a little like the bodice of the BHL Anna dress. The blouse still had a very boxy look so I curved the side seams in by about an inch at the waist, grading out to nothing at the hips and I'm much happier with this shape. 


Underlining the silk seems to have really helped bring out the beautiful colour of the fabric as well as sort out the stubborn creases I was whining about here. The blouse is still nice and drapey, but because of the underlining, it now has an added weightiness which makes it lovely to wear. The fabric itself was a revelation - I fully expected all kinds of trouble from it, especially as it was such a pain to launder, but I couldn't have been more wrong. I cut it out using a layer of muslin underneath (see full tutorial here) which worked perfectly. Using very sharp scissors helped too, as did using a fine needle in my machine (a 60) and silk thread. The only change I had to make during the actual sewing was to decrease the tension significantly to stop the stitches gathering (I set it to 0 rather than my usual 3). Once I'd sorted that out it was a pleasure to sew. I had to do quite a bit of unpicking (including, horror of horrors, a buttonhole…), but amazingly there are hardly any marks left on the fabric, it's surprisingly robust. This was also down to using silk thread which I found easier to remove than standard poly thread.


For buttons, I asked the opinion of my new Instagram sewing pals on which of these two sets to use. It was a close call, but the more subtle, swirly ones on the right hand side won in the end. They're vintage buttons (incidentally, from the same set that I used on my vintage shirt dress) and I think they match the fabric beautifully. 


I finished the armholes and bottom hem with bias binding, catch stitching it to the underlining. The collar and lapels still refused to lie flat after extensive pressing so I edge stitched them to mirror the shoulder seams and yoke. They're still a bit wavy but it doesn't bother me. I underlined them with silk organza, rather than silk cotton, and I think this was the problem. This was my first time using silk organza and I have to say, I found it a nightmare to work with, urrgh, horrible stuff. 

Simplicity 2844 is the oldest pattern in my collection (it dates from the 1930's) and I have a real soft spot for it because it was the first vintage pattern I ever owned (I won it in a giveaway by Debi at My Happy Sewing Place). I think making something from an 80 year old pattern definitely makes it eligible for my Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge, so I'm including it as my third entry for the year.


Making this blouse was also part of another pledge - the Made Up initiative - set up by Karen at Did You Make That? to raise money for the National Literacy Trust.  I have to say, sewing this blouse turned out to be more than a slight pain in the arse.  BUT…I wouldn't have made it without the pledge, I know that for a fact, the fabric would just have sat in my stash forever. So yes, it was a challenge, but a good one, with a happy outcome. There's just one more day to go until the challenge deadline, any other sprints to the finish?! x


34 comments:

  1. I think it's really pretty! and that's interesting that you found silk organza to be a nightmare because so many people love it so much lol

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    1. I know, I was so disappointed as I was expecting great things! And thank you. x

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  2. It's lovely! Such a beautiful colour. My made up pledge was a bit the same, I wouldn't have finished it if I hadn't had that pledge sitting there - guess it's good to challenge ourselves sometimes!

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    1. Oh definitely, sometimes it's the only way to get tricky projects finished! Well done for finishing yours too. x

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  3. I made a similar one (on my blog right now) and you are so right, it has taken me nearly 4 weeks to make it and lots of unpicking too! Hooray for sewing time without small people today! I chose the pattern after seeing your first one because I liked it so much. Jo x
    http://joeveryday19.blogspot.co.uk/2015/09/exquisite-collar.html

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    1. Oh it's lovely Jo, really beautifully made, you must be so pleased with it?! x

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  4. You did a wonderful job! It looks lovely on you!

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  5. Beautiful, this has such gorgeous details. I love the shoulders and the pleat at the bust. Congrats on finishing your challenge on time! Mine is also close to the line!!

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    1. Thank you, I love those details too! Good luck with finishing your challenge, go, go, go! x

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  6. It looks really nice on you. I think it looks great with your skinny jeans.

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    1. Thank you, I think that's how I'll mostly wear it! x

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  7. I don't know if you have noticed, but over the years you have been blogging, it's clear that you are putting more and more care and time into your makes. :) I love this as it shows a growing confidence and experience with sewing. So your taste in fit and style isn't the only change over four years!
    As for silk organza, it is the most wonderful thing in the world to work with once you get the knack, so don't give up, please? I would have people to be put off it. I teach a whole day class on finishing techniques and use a lot of it. Also, the quality can vary a lot so do aim for the good stuff ;-)

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    1. Ah Maryanne, that's one of the nicest comments I've ever had on my blog, thank you so very much. I have been making an effort to put more and more care into my sewing, it's just so lovely that people have noticed!
      And as it's you, I'm going to give silk organza another chance. Not for the first time I wish you lived nearer as I'd be taking your finishing techniques class in a flash - what a great idea! Maybe the stuff I bought wasn't good enough quality, it was £16 a metre though, so hardly cheap, I'll do some investigating.... x

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  8. A great outcome to a frustrating project. The buttons are perfect, love using old buttons.

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  9. This is just lovely. It's so stressful to sew with a fabric you LOVE. Well done. Now you can wear it as often as you like!

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    1. I know! That's why I was determined to get it exactly right, I want to wear it a LOT! x

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  10. Definitely the right choice with the buttons and doesn't it look sweet layered with the cardigan - I really like it styled that way.

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    1. Yes, I'm pleased I went with those buttons, they're perfect! Ah I love that cardigan so much, it goes with absolutely everything. In fact I think I bought it after seeing your cardi/shrug you wore with your Mortmain! x

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  11. Been looking forward to seeing this, and it hasn't disappointed. You look lovely

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  12. Love the fabric, it's beautiful!

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  13. It's lovely Jane, beautiful fabric it really suits you.
    Rosie xx

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  14. Lovely blouse, like your adjustments to the shape. I've just finished my pledge ... Ginger jeans.

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    1. Oh well done! Ginger jeans - that's some achievement! x

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  15. It was worth the hassle Jane, the blouse looks really lovely, and the fabric looks good - even if it was a pig to work with. Hope to see you tomorrow at the meet up - my first! Gill x

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    1. Thanks Gill, it was worth it in the end. And it was so lovely to meet you at long last yesterday - here's to the next meet up! x

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  16. It was nice to see you again, if briefly. Your blouse is lovely, and so are you.

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    1. Ah thanks so much Kate! Lovely to see you too - and your beautiful yellow coat! x

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  17. The blouse turned out beautifully. It is such a nice colour, and so flattering on you.

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  18. This is such a lovely blouse! Like you, I would've shelved my trousers my trousers if it weren't for the Made Up Initiative. Those buttons are cute as buttons! ha. p.s. sorry for the late comment, so behind on blogs, I am only just getting around to commenting!

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