Tutorial - how to insert underarm reinforcement squares

Morning! As promised in my Big Vintage Sewalong post, I've put together a tutorial for inserting the underarm reinforcement squares on Vogue 8875. Of course, when I looked through the muslin construction photos, I realised I hadn't sewn the final dress in exactly the same way, but never fear, everything is fully explained in the written instructions. 

There are a couple of things I should point out.
1. I'd highly recommend making a bodice muslin before cutting into your precious fabric. This is time   well spent as it will allow you to check the fit and practice the technique.
2. This tutorial shows one side of the back bodice as it was smaller and easier to photograph, but the principles are the same for both back and front pieces.
3. Don't be despondent if it isn't perfect on your first try - of the four reinforcement squares I sewed, two went in without a fight first time and two had to be unpicked and redone.
4. Take your time…and make sure you have a stiff drink poured for when you've finished!

Are you sitting comfortably? Then I'll begin!

For each underarm seam you'll need a two inch square of bias cut fabric (the same as your dress fabric).

On the RIGHT side of the fabric, mark the stitching line as shown.

Centre the bias square over the tip of the stitching line and pin in place. Now mark the stitching lines on your bias square so they join up with the original ones.

Sew along the stitching line on the square and slash up to the tip.

Press the bias square first to one side of the stitching, then the other and fold it through to the WRONG side of the bodice. 

This step is not at all clear in the instructions, but believe me, that square needs to be hidden on the WRONG side! It's a bit tricky to get it to turn through neatly but it will. I'd recommend using a press cloth at this stage.

This is how it should look when it's all pressed through to the wrong side. 

And from the right side.

Your two back bodice pieces should now be stay stitched at this point as shown in the diagram below. Hmmm, guess who forgot to stay stitch her pieces for this tutorial?! Don't you forget please - as well as preventing the edges of the pattern pieces from stretching, the stay stitching will provide a stitching line for later on.

Yes, those bias squares should not be shown flapping about on the right side of the bodice, grrrr

You're now going to pin the bodice side back to the bodice back at the side and armhole edges, right sides together. Just imagine a nice line of stay stitching underneath those pins!

What I should have done at this stage is baste the pieces in place and I'd recommend you do too, it will save lots of heartache further down the line! I also found a good tip for this step on A Stitching Odyssey. Marie slits the top of the side back piece up to the seam allowance (or up to the stay stitching in your case), enabling the pieces to manoeuvre into position more easily. 

See the slit, at the top of the black piece?

Now, take a deep breath and stitch into position, sewing just outside the line of stay stitching to keep it hidden. Remember:

1. Don't feel you have to sew the whole section in one go. If you sew one seam at a time it will give you more control and hopefully minimise unruly fabric getting caught in your stitching. Talking of which…

2.  You're sewing round a very sharp corner so you need to be aware of folds of fabric potentially getting in your way. Go slowly and keep re-positioning your fabric out of the way of your needle. 

Here are the pieces stitched together. In an ideal world, the top of the side back piece would have been slashed down to where the stitching begins.

Press seams open and clip into your curves where necessary.

This is how it should look from the right side.

And here's the same seam on the finished dress. The reinforcement square is completely hidden and will add strength to the inner corner of the seam line.

If you're at all worried about the neatness of your underarm seams it may help to use a busy, patterned fabric. Nobody will ever notice the odd wonky stitch!

I hope this tutorial provides a bit of extra guidance if you're tackling this pattern. And as always, if there's anything you don't understand or that doesn't make sense, please let me know in the comments.  Have a good weekend! x

Mystery Vintage Dress

A few months ago I was given this beautiful vintage dress by my mother-in-law.  She bought it from a vintage shop several years ago but having only ever wore it once, decided she'd like to pass it onto somebody who would appreciate it.  Me, me, me!!  

It fits me perfectly, but the dress and my figure are probably not the best pairing.  I'm too curvy and I think the style would look best on somebody taller, flatter and a bit more gamine.  Nevertheless, it's a wonderful period garment that I'm very happy to have in my wardrobe and get out to play with from time to time.  I'd also love to give my mother-in-law a little more information on what period the dress hails from, and date it as accurately as I can.  This is where I need your help, lovely readers!

My guesstimate would be that this is a 1930's piece.  Perhaps earlier rather than later in the decade as there's definitely a hint of flapper style about it.  I also feel very strongly that this dress would have been worn with a hat as was typical then. If anybody who has knowledge of clothing from that period can shed any light, I'd be SO grateful.  Or indeed if you have anything at all to say on when you think the dress might originate from, please chip in, I may be completely wrong so I'd be really interested to hear your thoughts.

Here are a few tailoring details:

The dress is totally handmade, from what appears to be plum coloured silk crepe with dark green lace inset details.  There's an impressive amount of hand finishing too.

It has two kick pleats to the front and back and a dropped waist.

The neckline is low, with a ruffle detail and shoulder tucks.  

It has what I think is called a dicky i.e. a detachable triangle of fabric that fits across a low neckline to preserve one's modesty!

The sleeves are slightly puffed with a cuffed edge and lace inserts to add volume. 

It's just below knee length on me (I'm 5' 2").

There's a lovely shaped detail to the skirt, which is mirrored on the back bodice yoke.  

This is what made me think it was reminiscent of 1930's styles as my 1930's blouse has a V-shaped yoke.  

But when I re-examined it more closely, the V on my blouse was pointing down rather than up like the dress.  Anybody know if this is significant?

So, lots of nice period details, I just need to work out exactly what period we're talking about.  What do you think?  I know there are many, many bloggers out there who are very knowledgeable about such things, and I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thank you so much in advance! x