The pattern originally dates from 1955 and has some fab mid-50's details, including kimono sleeves, unusual princess/underarm seams and tucks instead of darts on the skirt front. There are also instructions for adding a self fabric belt and waist stay, neither of which I did, but I think they're nice touches.
What I didn't like about this pattern were the instructions for the princess/underarm seams. These seams are reinforced with bias squares of fabric which are sewn to the outside of the bodice, then slashed and pressed to the inside. This crucial step really isn't very clear at all. It's not actually that difficult a technique once you know how to do it, but you do need a bit more guidance than the pattern offers. I took some step-by-step photos and will be putting together a tutorial soon, which hopefully will make the step a bit clearer. As for the rest of the dress, it was very straight forward to sew, so don't let me put you off!
Because of the shape of the bodice, it's difficult to get an accurate idea of fit without making a muslin. I actually made two muslins (gasp) as I was determined to get the fit right before my fabric was even in the same room as my scissors. I cut a size 12, which was a pretty good fit everywhere except the upper arms and the waist, so I added more room to those areas (see below). I also made the following changes:
- Changed the side zip to a centred zip (no surprise there). There's already a centre back bodice seam so no alterations to the pattern were required, yay!
- Shortened the skirt by a gigantic nine inches!! Mid-50's straight skirts are typically worn well below the knee, but the original skirt pattern was almost maxi length on me.
- The bodice is actually supposed to drape over the waistband in a blousey fashion rather than fit in a smooth line - this isn't apparent in the line drawings and envelope artwork. My first muslin confirmed that this did me no favours at all, so I shortened the bodice by ¾".
- Widened the kimono sleeves very slightly as they were a bit restrictive.
- Added a total of 1" to the waist, divided between the various seams. The dress fabric has more give than the muslin fabric (calico) so the waist did end up a little roomy. I'm not changing it though - it's nice to be able to bend over without stopping my circulation!
- I also tried to reduce the height of the bust darts, but this resulted in a baggy upper chest so I left them as they were!
- I also tried to reduce the height of the bust darts, but this resulted in a baggy upper chest so I left them as they were!
Fabric suggestions are brief: crepe, shantung or tissue taffeta, but I think anything with a nice drape would be suitable. I went for a luxury crepe in a beautiful teal/turquoise colour from Sew Over It - the colour is a bit of a departure for me but I love it! I first saw the fabric at the Knitting and Stitching Show, which was an advantage as it meant I could play with it a bit before deciding if it was suitable. It certainly was! It doesn't have that weird spongey feel you get on a wool crepe, instead it's smooth and silky and quite weighty. If you're looking for a special occasion fabric this is definitely one to consider, I think it's lovely. The dress isn't lined (I couldn't bear the idea of sewing those reinforcement squares all over again) and the skirt does cling to your legs a bit without a lining, so I'll be wearing it with a slip,
I wouldn't recommend the pattern to an absolute beginner, but if you like 1950's styles and fancy a challenge, then go for it. McCall's UK have kindly offered an extra giveaway copy of Vogue 8875 to one of my blog readers. If you'd like to be in with a chance of winning it, simply leave a comment on this blog post, including your email address if it's not linked to your Blogger profile. The giveaway is open worldwide and closes at midnight GMT on Thursday 19th May. The winner will be chosen at random.
You can find out more about the Big Vintage Sewalong on my previous post here, including details of the 20 selected vintage patterns and the other bloggers taking part in the Blogger Tour. Remember, money raised from the sale of each pattern will go directly to the Eve Appeal cancer charity, so you'll be directly supporting a great cause. Right, that's all folks, have a great weekend! x
I'll be wearing it like this after a few drinks... |
The pattern and a fabric allowance were kindly provided by The McCall Pattern Company. All views my own.
I love the last picture! The Colour is fantastic on you!
ReplyDeleteFrankie
http://knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk/
That colour is amazing on you. Well done you for all those changes the fit at the end is fabulous K xXx
ReplyDeleteLoving the dress and the Marilyn pose suits it perfectly ;-)
ReplyDeleteJane it is so beautiful! It just goes to show how a good solid colour and a classic design can look a million dollars. Love that colour on you too. What a dream dress xxx
ReplyDeleteGorgeous dress Jane! And it's a beautiful colour on you. I have quite a few vintage patterns that use the reinforcing patch for kimono sleeves so I look forward to your tutorial.
ReplyDeleteThat's an amazing dress on you, well done on getting the fit so darn good. Only hope I'll be able to do likewise.
ReplyDeletebejoycem@gmail.com
Looks good love the dress and the colour on you
ReplyDeleteThe dress is gorgeous and looks amazing on you! :)
ReplyDeleteBut I must confess that the coat has caught my eye! It also has a lovely design!
Love the dress and fabric. Well done you.
ReplyDeleteAnn-a-m@hotmail.com
This dress looks fabulous on you jane. The fit and colour and brilliant.
ReplyDeleteOoooo I'd LOVE this pattern, the dress looks amazing on you and the colour is beautiful. However, I've been looking for a coat pattern for ages to update my winter coat, and the princess seams at the back of this one are just what I've been looking for! Maybe if I started now I might actually get it finished by winter...!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful dress, and I'm curious to see the tutorial for the princess seam reenforcement because I can't visualise it at all. Can I ask, is the colour of the fabric in your photos true to life? It looks so much greener on the sew over it website
ReplyDeleteI'd say the true colour is mid-way between the two, a kind of bright, turquoise/teal. For some reason I couldn't get my photos to pick up any green, I tried adding green but my face took on a sickly hue! x
DeleteHave just added a note to the post pointing this out. Thanks. x
DeleteCheers for clarifying, buying fabric online can be a bit of a leap of faith. This one might be winging its way to me in the near future though!
DeleteThe style really suits you, a lovely dress. Lynnedayer @ hotmail.com
ReplyDeleteAh Jane that's a fabulous colour on you just as it is!
ReplyDeleteThanks for posting this - there aren't many patterns featured on blogs in this style - they tend to be either skater stlye, prom style or shifts. I could see myself in something like this for the office but those sleeves make me a little nervous! Laurencara @ Hotmail.com
This dress is gorgeous on you. It's suits you perfectly. I would love to win a copy of this pattern. Thanks for the inspiration!
ReplyDeletei love the style and the colour! beautiful on you!
ReplyDeleteWow! This dress turned out beautifully. You look just great in it; I have to agree about the vintage touch but a contemporary look. That was spot on. It is simple but very effective.
ReplyDeleteLovely!
ReplyDeleteJane,
ReplyDeleteI just love this dress. The colour really suits you and is one of my faves and I really like the style. I think those reinforcement squares would be worth the hassle - after a few cursings and tantrums on my part by the sounds of it.
Holly
What a wonderful dress! I think it would be perfect to dress up for a summer wedding or down for a day at the office. I would love to win a copy: alexandrampatterson(at)gmail(dot)com
ReplyDeleteLove the dress. The colour looks more of a bright blue. I also loved some of your other vintage makes, trying to get hands on mccalls 3779. A newby to reading blogs because of the vintage sew along. theresapacker@gmail.com
ReplyDeleteVery lovely dress!
ReplyDeleteWow, I can't believe the difference in colour on you & the SewOverIt site! The dress looks stunning & fits really well. Many thanks once again for the opportunity to win the pattern. ericandsm(at)live(dot)co(dot)uk
ReplyDeleteGorgeous colour – whether it's blue, green or in-between. I've been coveting the coat pattern that comes with this dress. If only I had an occasion to wear it..! jvblackbourn(at)gmail(dot)com
ReplyDeleteMy Minerva evening dress make from 2 years ago had those funny armpit things in and it WAS lined and in the end I had to drag a mum from the school gates with some sewing knowledge to help me along, it really was not difficult but all seemed a bit of a faff. That was from 1956, it must have been all the rage - Anyway it is a fabulous dress and you wear it well. I did a tutorial for making a fabric belt it is on the 2015 Vintage pledge pinterest board. My waist is smaller now than when I made my dress so I use the belt to keep it in circulation! Love that colour on you too. Jo x
ReplyDeleteStunning Jane - that colour is awesome on you! And you can see the gorgeous 50's shape in your side profile shot. Awesome work!
ReplyDeleteThat colour looks fabulous on you! I love seeing how these vintage patterns look in real life, on real people. Regarding the length, I agree, shorter is better. Gorgeous dress! :-)
ReplyDeleteThis pattern is wonderful, I have some gorgeous blue lace I think this pattern would look wonderful in
ReplyDeleteThis dress is fantastic! And thanks for the chance to win :)
ReplyDeleteThis dress looks fabulous on you. I'd love a copy of the pattern so I have a chance of looking as fab!
ReplyDeleteLove your dress and the fit is great. I'd have a go having seen yours!
ReplyDeleteTotally chic ;) The detailing on the dress is lovely, and makes it rather interesting. The color on my screen is lovely, and probably is in real life too :)
ReplyDeleteOh Jane! It's lovely...you're a bombshell in it!!! The crucial/tricky step you allude to sounds all too familiar...is it similar to what I had to do for my 1950s dress last year I wonder? http://www.astitchingodyssey.com/2015/12/vintagepledge-simplicity-4147-progress.html
ReplyDeleteOh yes it is, it's exactly the same technique! And such a lovely, clear explanation too, why couldn't I find your post when I was desperately working out what to do?! It's a pain of a technique isn't it? but worth it for the end result I think. xx
DeleteFantastic dress, I live the details of the seams and tucks. Such a classic style and it looks great on you! Having seen this made up I think it's a dress I would wear all the time.
ReplyDeleteMkeab1812@gmail.com
Absolutely love this shape and colour on you Jane. Perfect match! Wendyx
ReplyDeleteI love your new dress, that colour is amazing.
ReplyDeleteI am not a big fan for vintage patterns but this one is very nice. You look fabulous in this dress and the colour is great. I love challenging patterns and those seams look quite interesting...
ReplyDeleteLove that colour on you! The shape is also great.
ReplyDeleteLovely dress! The colour is great and the construction looks very interesting :)
ReplyDeleteSwoon this is gorgeous, looks modern in that bold colour.
ReplyDeleteI love this colour. A lovely dress altogether. I'm making a waist stay at the moment, essential for a wedding dress, but am less clear why this dress needed it. It sounds quite tricky - but I'm prepared to try!
ReplyDeleteThe dress is awesome!!
ReplyDeleteI love that dress on you. I see why you tried to lower the bust darts. Too bad it didn't work. I wonder if it would work if you started with a different size on the bodice. Oh well. It looks great anyway. I'd love a copy of the pattern so I can have a go at those reinforcement square s.
ReplyDeleteWhat a beautiful dress! I love this colour on you!
ReplyDeleteWhat a great color on you. And the style is very flattering.
ReplyDeleteBeautiful dress and you look fabulous in it. Xx
ReplyDeleteSky blue is just right for you. You are so womanly. The shape of dress fits you perfect!I like wonderful warm atmosphere of your photos!
ReplyDeleteWow, that's beautiful, I think the solid colour really shows off the style. Sewsmartukatgmaildotcom
ReplyDeleteOoh, this is lovely! That colour is perfect for you!
ReplyDeleteWow!! This is such a great dress. Well done for out-foxing the vague instructions! I would LOVE to be in with a chance of winning a copy, since the shape looks very much like an old RTW favourite dress of mine which I've been meaning to copy for ages. Also my body shape is very similar to yours so I think it would suit me! PS cracking colour choice, too. x
ReplyDelete