I've been working on my first ever muslin for the Crepe Sewalong, and, as mentioned in my last post, it's become something of a trauma. My first stumbling block was the sizing of the pattern. It was WAY off, which was disappointing, as the last Collette pattern I used was a perfect fit - I barely had to make any adjustments. But that was a skirt and my bottom half is a standard size, the problem is with my top half which isn't quite so standard. Collette patterns are cut for those with a reasonable sized bust which is good as that's what I have. However, I have a very narrow back so my measurements aren't standard (32E if you must know). I came up against this same problem when adjusting my new dressform (see last post and yes, I know it's supposed to be a Christmas present but this muslin has become something of an emergency!) The back section was as tightly closed as I could get it, whilst the front section looked like an autopsy victim - wide open and gaping right down the front. I still had to put a bra on it and stuff it to get the exact measurements. But it now exactly mimics my measurements which I'm delighted about, and which was the whole point of buying it after all.
Anyway, back to the muslin, because of my bust/back anomaly, the first muslin I cut out was really baggy and looked dreadful. In fact it was so ridiculously baggy I re-cut it to the next size down.
|Ridiculously baggy muslin|
The back had too much bulk, even pulled across as a wrap, so tucks were needed on each side.
The shoulders also needed taking in, along with the side seams. However, it was at the front where the most work was needed. Look how much excess fabric there is.
Another horizontal tuck right across the front was called for. I also took some small tucks out at the sides of the neckline so it didn't gape so much.
|Much improved but still not too flattering|
This was WAY better but it was still baggy under the bust. I get this a lot - there's basically a shelf where the bust is, and then unless it's fitted well, the fabric falls straight down to several inches in front of my stomach, making me look pregnant (which I'm not). I read a bit more of Gertie's blog and she started talking about reshaping a dart for a more flattering bustline. YES, that's what I'd been waiting for all this time! I also moved the dart down and the combination of both these adjustments seemed to work
|Lovely new fitted muslin|
The new muslin still has fold marks on it and the darts are very quickly sewn and not pressed (I was getting very frustrated by this point) so they look a bit pointy, but essentially it's a very good, flattering fit. Here's the back.
I still don't entirely know what I'm doing when I'm transferring the muslin changes to the pattern pieces but my method of winging it seems to be working. Gertie really has pulled out all the stops for this sewalong, she's an amazing teacher and I'm so grateful. Despite all the huffing and puffing, I would never have been able to adjust the fit so well on my own. The next step will be cutting out the real fabric (which fills me with horror) ... x