Sunday, 16 April 2017

Nautical print Granville shirt

My lightweight #2017makenine pledge is actually going rather well (lightweight in the sense that mine is actually #2017makesix...). I've made the Capital Chic Sangria dress and two versions of the Sew Over It Heather dress. My latest finished garment takes the tally up to three, although it's a slight deviation from the original idea. I'd planned to make a Deer and Doe Melilot Shirt using some nautical viscose twill from my stash. Well, the stash fabric got used, but I decided to use an old favourite rather than starting from scratch with a new-to-me pattern. The pattern I used was the Sewaholic Granville shirt which I've sewn three times before (here, here and here). It was already adjusted to fit, so my plan was to just cut out the fabric and start sewing. It didn't quite work out that way though...


I have no qualms with the pattern: I love using it and always get good results. No, the baddie in this particular saga happened to be the fabric - it was an absolute nightmare. The culprit was a viscose twill with a lovely drape and slight sheen from Fabric Godmother (no longer in stock). The problem was it had so much drape it was barely usable. The first sign that all was not well was when I tried to iron it after pre-washing - it wouldn't stay on the ironing board and kept sliding off. I then sprayed it to within an inch of its life with spray starch. This stiffened the fabric sufficiently for me to cut the pattern pieces out, but it was still slippery as hell. The texture was horrible to work with too, a bit like having an entire garment made from grosgrain ribbon. I put the finished shirt through a rinse cycle in the washing machine, but I'm not entirely convinced all the starch has been removed as the texture is still a bit weird. Hopefully it will settle down after another wash.

Spot the sailor boys...
The reason I'd fallen for the fabric in the first place was the design: from afar it looks like a ditsy floral, but it's actually a nautical theme. Anchors, yachts, flags and, wait for it... sailor boys! Adorable as those sailor boys are, they're not cute enough to make me want to work with this fabric ever again. I was actually quite resentful of it by the time I'd finished, which was a shame as I loved it when I first bought it and it certainly wasn't cheap (£17 a metre).

On a brighter note, having made it several times before, construction was a breeze. The only time I ventured away from the instructions was to construct the collar - I used the Four Square Walls method which I prefer. If I were to make this shirt again (highly likely), the one thing I'd change would be to increase the size of the full bust adjustment as it's a tiny bit snug across the bust.


After grappling with the fabric for what felt like months, I knew any kind of buttonhole mishap would nudge me over the edge, so I got the buttonholes made at D M Buttons in Soho. I added a couple more (well why not, if somebody else is making them?!) which was a sensible move. All my other versions have had to have secret buttons added to the inside to prevent gaping but this one seems to be fine so far. I personally don't think there are enough buttons specified in the pattern, so if you're thinking of making it I'd recommend adding a couple more. The buttons are lovely metal ones from the button shop in Berlin - I like how they pop against all the red, white and blue.

The shirt has already had its first full day's outing: a meeting with sewing pals to welcome Tasha and partner Mel to London last weekend.

Outside Sew Over It

With beautiful Roisin
Looking slightly crazed with a cocktail
It was the perfect choice for walking around visiting fabric shops and sitting in the pub, but still felt just about dressy enough for cocktails later. I almost forgave the fabric for being such a bitch to work with. Almost. Happy Sunday! x


25 comments:

  1. I love your shirt! The fabric was definitely worth it even if it was tricky to sew with as it looks great!

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  2. Hopefully after a few more cocktails you will forget all about the nightmare of slippy fabrics and enjoy your beautiful shirt after its next wash (which will hopefully remove the remaining starch).

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  3. Well it looks fab and it sits like a dream on you! :)

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  4. You look gorgeous in your Granville-made-of-naughty-fabric, Jane! For all its slippery, slidey behaviour, I actually adore viscose twill. I made a pair of palazzo pants in it a year or 2 ago & they are a DREAM to wear. I'll bet your shirt becomes a favourite this Summer 'cause it sure does look great! Happy Easter from Brisbane! x

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    1. Happy Easter from London! Your palazzo pants sound beautiful but I'm still not convinced about that horrible fabric! x

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  5. Oh there's nothing worse than shifty slidey fabric...such a good job you went ahead with a tried and tested pattern! Turned out lovely xx

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    1. Thanks Sarah, if it hadn't turned out well I'd have shredded it with scissors!! Bloody fabric! x

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  6. Looks fabulous! I love love that fabric perfect for a boaty friend of mine i may have to seek it out ��

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    1. I think it's now sold out unfortunately. And thank you! x

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  7. Replies
    1. It is a nice pattern, I definitely recommend it. x

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  8. You did well to continue with a shirt design with all the details after the ironing board incident. I would have jibbed out and gone for the top of that New Look pattern! Jo x

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    1. There were so many times I almost did exactly that! After I'd starched it I got all my hopes up, but they were soon dashed! x

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  9. It looks lovely Jane, I think I'll add that to my pattern list for 2017.
    Jane X

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    1. Thanks Jane! Definitely a good one to add to your pattern list. x

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  10. Love the shirt, and it looks great with your dark jeans. What a nightmare to work with though!

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    1. Thanks Kerry, I tried styling it with a skirt but it does look best with dark jeans I think. x

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  11. Hello Jane! The combo of your blue top and black jeans look quite dazzling on you. Being a stitching and needlework learner, I would love to admire what you have accomplished. xx
    Kate | SewandSo Voucher Codes

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