Friday 27 February 2015

A springtime Granville

If you were looking forward to reading a long blog post all about Granville - Arkwright's long suffering nephew from Open All Hours - then I'm sorry to disappoint you. This post is all about shirt making, and one shirt in particular, the Granville pattern from Sewaholic. I couldn't resist adding a picture of Granville though, look at his little face! And his Fair Isle tank top!


Despite admiring Sewaholic's patterns from the sidelines, I've only sewn a couple of them (the Pendrell, Renfrew and Alma). There always seems to be some little detail about their patterns that I don't like, or I don't think will suit me and I haven't actually bought one for ages. The latest releases were an exception - as soon as I saw the Granville pattern I knew it had my name on it. A classic, fitted shirt with princess seams to the back and shaping to the waist to give it the fitted look I'm always after. I bought the Granville as soon as it was released.

Alice at Backstitch had also recently asked if I'd like to review some fabric, so I saw this as a good opportunity to try out a nice, crisp cotton. I settled on one of the Timeless Treasures Sketch fabrics in Red. I love a crosshatch design and this particular colour has a really subtle, crosshatch finish. If you like your crosshatch a bit bolder, then Cherry might be a better choice - it's a bit more obvious.  The fabric is a good match for this pattern. I wanted something lightweight enough for a shirt, but crisp enough to hold the shape of the collar and stand. It's just the right weight and washes and presses perfectly. I also like the fact that it looks like a plain red fabric, until you get closer and notice the crosshatch detail - fancy!


I found the clear buttons in my button box and couldn't work out where they'd come from (maybe the sewing ghost put them there?!) Then I remembered - they were from an old duvet I'd thrown out. Not quite the classy lineage I'd imagined!

When I've made Sewaholic patterns before, the fit has always seemed pretty good on me initially. I'm the opposite of the pear shape that Sewaholic patterns are drafted for, so I've always used my bust size and graded down at the waist and hips. When I'm wearing the tops, I've noticed that the bust often feels a bit tight and constricting. So this time round I took a tip from Mary over at the Curvy Sewing Collective and altered the front bodice piece accordingly. I traced a size 8 for my bust and waist, grading down to a size 6 at the hips and added a one inch FBA (full bust adjustment) using Mary's excellent tutorial. This gives more room in the bust but retains the lovely shaping at the waist and hips. I also shortened the whole pattern by an inch.


The other change I made was to convert the sleeves from long, cuffed ones, to short. A bit drastic, but I just don't wear long sleeved shirts. Ever. Short sleeves are much more practical for me and the fact that I made mine without a cuff or sleeve band means I can still just about get away with wearing them underneath a cardigan. 


As far as construction goes, I found some areas a little challenging. I should point out that I've never actually made a proper shirt with a collar and collar stand before, I've made plenty of shirts with notched collars and flat collars, but not this sort - so it was a bit of a departure for me. The written instructions were adequate, but I would have liked a bit more direction in a few places, notably when you add the button bands and sew the collar and collar stand. I felt that the diagrams weren't that clear, and once or twice I actually found them misleading. I figured it out in the end, but it wasn't an easy process! Putting together the basic shirt, yoke and buttonbands was pretty quick once I'd worked out where to fold the front bands. The collar on the other hand, took almost an entire day to get right! Maybe it will be an easier process next time round when I know what I'm doing?!


The inside yoke has a lovely clean finish - luckily I found the instructions for that bit to be perfectly clear! All the seams are pressed together and overlocked before being topstitched. It's worth taking a bit of time with your topstitching as it does give a professional finish to the shirt. especially round the pesky button bands and collar areas.


Fit-wise, I'm pleased to report that the FBA was a complete success, there's plenty of room across the bust but the shirt still remains fitted because of the shaped waist. I could kick myself for not paying more attention to the button placement though. I usually use this tutorial, but decided I knew better this time round. Clearly I didn't, as there's still a bit of gaping. Gah, so annoying, especially as the rest of the shirt is near perfect! The one fitting change I'd make next time would be to move the bust dart up by about an inch. I did measure it before I did the FBA, but something obviously got lost in translation as it ended up a bit low.


Whingeing aside, I do like the shirt a lot and I would definitely recommend the pattern. It's beautifully drafted and I think the classic style would work with lots of different body shapes. Believe it or not, I lack a plain, red top in my wardrobe, so this simple shirt will go with everything: jeans, skirts, shorts, trousers. I love how it looks untucked too, it's just the right length! I'm so pleased to have kicked off my summer sewing with such a wearable shirt! Next up, something in barkcloth I think...

Fabric was given to me free of charge for review. All views my own.



44 comments:

  1. Ooh, this is beautiful! It looks like a really classic shape. Good to know that simply lopping off the sleeves at the appropriate length works for a short sleeved version too!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Vicki! Beware where you lop the sleeves off though, I originally cut mine just above the elbow and they looked frumpy as hell! x

      Delete
  2. Your collar turned out great - I struggled with mine too. I think it's all about practice I think!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I think so too, I'm sure the next one will be easier! x

      Delete
  3. Great colour choice on your shirt! PS your jeans fit you really well, did you make them?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks! I didn't make my jeans, they're from Gap and I absolutely love them. Tragically I think they've discontinued them. I may give the Ginger jeans pattern a go and use them as my fitting example! x

      Delete
  4. Well this is lovely - the perfect red shirt! The Granville is on my radar so thank you for the detailed review. I think I would definitely need to refer to a sewing book or tutorial to cope with the collar instructions as I am a complete novice at those! Perhaps Tasia will be writing a tutorial?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Suzie! There are some collar tutorials on her blog but they don't use the same method as the pattern, May be worth a look? x

      Delete
  5. Now that you have made the connection between this pattern and Open All Hours, I'll never see it in the same way again!
    (Nice shirt btw!)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. From the minute I first saw the name, all I could think of was Granville from Open all Hours! x

      Delete
  6. I am loving your shirt, and loving that fabric! I always enjoy when a closer look reveals interesting details.

    ReplyDelete
  7. There are a few great posts on the Sewaholic web site about getting a great result with collar and band, I followed them and found they had the details I needed. Having said that, your result looks really great! I love the bright and cheery red.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Ann. I did consider using the posts on Tasha's blog but thought I'd try working directly from the pattern for my first attempt. I think I'll follow them for my next version, so good to hear they worked for you. x

      Delete
  8. i love this crosshatch fabric and the end result looks fab!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Joanne, the fabric's lovely isn't it?! x

      Delete
  9. I love it as a short sleeved blouse!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks, I'm so glad I made it short sleeved! x

      Delete
  10. I love your red shirt, and you've convinced me to make a short sleeved granville :)

    ReplyDelete
  11. I love, love this. I bought this as soon as it came out, but I was hesitant because I have a button down pattern that I love. The Granville is a bit looser, but I'm really loving it on you. I'm happy to see it on another blogger with my similar shape and it fits so well!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Kathy! There are only bust darts at the front but it's not a loose fit as the back princess seams give it a nice shape. I'm so glad I did the FBA, the fit is great. x

      Delete
  12. This is a fabulous shirt. I love this colour on you. And the fabric is awesome. Wouldn't it make a lovely dress too?!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Evie! Ooh yes, it would make a gorgeous dress - great idea! x

      Delete
  13. I've just bought the Granville, and this post has made be 100 times happier I did! Love the bright red! And you could always just make up an elegant, yet eccentric, great aunt that left you the buttons ;)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You would totally rock this shirt Reana! Eccentric great aunt leaving me the buttons sounds much better than "cut them off an old duvet"! x

      Delete
  14. I love your version of this shirt Jane. Got to love a red shirt :)

    ReplyDelete
  15. How to make a reasonably 'plain' shirt look a million dollars, you done it lady - you've managed to give it that vintage vibe too! And thank you for the much needed Granville reference, it is always what I think of first, but imagining Arkwright saying it too.....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Aw thanks love! And always happy to oblige with a Granville reference - I should have added Nurse Gladys Emmanuel too! x

      Delete
  16. Your short sleeved version is lovely. I thought the distance between your second and third buttons was tighter than between the third and fourth buttons, hence the gaping. I am sorry to hear you were not totally happy with Tasia's pattern directions. All I've ever read online were positive reviews. Have you ever contacted her to share your insights -- I am sure she would love to hear from you. Thank you for sharing your beautiful version of this pattern.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I've been happy with the other Sewaholic patterns I've used too, I just got a bit lost with the collar instructions. I'm sure it will be easier next time! x

      Delete
  17. That is a trouper of a blouse/shirt. It goes with everything. Jo x

    ReplyDelete
  18. This fits you so nicely! What a lovely shirt!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Sonja, I'm really pleased with the fit! x

      Delete
  19. Great shirt Jane. I really like the cross-hatching on the fabric and the bright red color. You'll certainly get a lot of use out of that piece.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks Heather, I foresee me wearing it to death! x

      Delete
  20. The shirt is lovely!! I might *have* to have this pattern :)
    I once sewed a shirt with a collar and stand, but it went rather well although it was fiddly. Sometimes it's good to be a novice, not knowing what things to fear. Had I tried today, it would probably be hell :D
    Anyway, the shirt suits you so well, and I love your little radio there ;)

    ReplyDelete
  21. Very nice! Bet you wouldn't mind a polka dot version either!

    ReplyDelete
  22. Somehow I missed this post and had I seen it at the time I think it would definitely have proved useful! I just made up the Granville and seem to have encountered very similar fitting issues so thanks for the links in your post they will certainly be used when making up my next version! Oh yes - and your shirt looks great :-)

    ReplyDelete

LinkWithin

Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...