Monday 3 October 2016

Corduroy Rosa Dress

My recent sewing has largely consisted of quick, easy projects (namely New Look 6217) due to a lack of sewing time and brain power. I did however find time to make a shirt for the Ginghamalong a few weeks ago, and apart from one moronic mishap (sewing the collar on upside down) it all went to plan. This definitely whetted my appetite for shirt making, so when Tilly kindly gifted me a copy of the Rosa shirt pattern, I decided to dive in. 

Hmmm may have to re-position that third button...
I went down the shirt dress route - I wanted my version to be an everyday dress that I could wear with tights in autumn and winter, nothing fancy, just practical and easy. For fabric I chose a lovely grey corduroy bought from Badger and Earl just before their sad closure earlier this year. From this point on, the project was as much a lesson in working with corduroy as it was in shirt making…. 

I've worked with cord a couple of times before but only on simple skirts requiring very few pattern pieces. The Rosa dress has princess seams, front and back yokes and a two-piece collar and stand, which means lots more pattern pieces and a thousand times more mess. Take it from me, corduroy is a filthy, dirty beast of a fabric and the fluff it generates gets everywhere!  If you're thinking of working with it, I'd highly recommend you read this post beforehand, especially the super helpful reader comments. I used a denim needle and a walking foot, both of which came in very handy when navigating multiple layers of cord.

Because of the thickness of my fabric I used scraps of Liberty lawn (left over from this top) for the button band facings and collar stand - I like the contrast and the pop of red against the grey.


If I had my time again I would have cut the under collar in lawn too, as even with careful trimming there was far too much bulk to contend with. The pattern recommends fine needlecord but the cord I used was probably more of a mid-weight so therefore a bit too heavy. The princess seams and yoke are finished with mock felled seams (overlocked or zig-zagged inside, then top stitched), which did help flatten them down.


I took my time making this dress and construction was a slow but stress-free process thanks to the clear instructions. If you're new to shirt making, this pattern would be a good place to start. As the instructions include photographs of each step I decided to sew the collar according to the pattern rather than by my preferred method. I achieved a good result using Tilly's method, but I still prefer the order of construction Andrea uses - it's just one of those things! The sleeves are set in flat and went in without a fight first time, I really should get into the habit of sewing them that way every time.

To give you an idea of fit, I sewed a size 4 with no fit adjustments to the pattern. This includes the length, so do bear this in mind if you're taller than 5'2" as the hemmed length is above the knee, even on me!


The finished bust measurement for my size is 38 inches, which I hoped would give me just enough room without having to do a FBA (full bust adjustment). My gamble paid off and I'm pleased with the fit of the princess seams over the bust. I think the only fitting change to consider for next time would be a small shoulder adjustment as the shoulders seem a tad wide to me. 

I also made two style changes to the original pattern: I omitted the pockets as I find breast pockets really annoying and decided against the turned-up sleeves. I did intend for them to be turned-up but they felt too casual, as if I'd just rolled my sleeves up rather than an intentional design feature. Instead I simply tapered the width in by an inch at the wrists and hemmed them. I have the arm length of a T-Rex so happily they're just about full length on me. It also solves the problem of cold wrists in winter! 


The weight of the cord does give the finished dress a different feel to what I was expecting, it's almost like a coat dress! I'm still really pleased with it though - this particular shade of grey happens to suits me and it will co-ordinate well with lots of other colours. I've styled it here without tights as we were still clinging on to the last few days of good weather when I took the photos, but from now on I'll definitely be wearing it with tights and brogues on a regular basis. Have a good week! x


The Rosa pattern was given to me free of charge. All views my own.







28 comments:

  1. Love how you've simplified the Rosa, Jane and that Liberty fabric just pops! Looks fabulous. Such a lovely shape. x

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    1. I really like the shape! Liberty fabric is perfect for collar bands, I was lucky to find a scrap with such a good colour match!

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  2. Very nice. Love that classic v shape on the back. A bit too advanced for me but maybe one of these days....

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    1. It's not a difficult pattern, just a bit more involved, definitely one to try! x

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  3. That grey looks really lovely on you Jane.

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  4. Looks great, I wouldn't have thought of this in corduroy, but it turned out so well! I love all the little details in this pattern, especially that back yoke.

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    1. Thanks! The back yoke is a nice feature and pretty easy to sew neatly too. x

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  5. Read your email with great interest but had to come online and tell you how fab it looks - you've done a terrific job and I WANT ONE ;)

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  6. Great dress, it looks amazing and I would have never thought to make this dress in cord! It looks elegant and warm. Last week I tried to plan some fall sewing projects and I found so very little longs sleeved dresses!

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    1. Yes, I was worried the cord would be too heavy, but I think it just about works! x

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  7. I love it, Jane! That looks so cozy and lovely for fall and winter. I have a couple of corduroy (needlecord) fabrics waiting for me to sew up, myself!

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    1. Thanks Tasha, I think it's going to get a lot of wear in the next few months! Plus shirt dresses are such a great option for lazy dressers (such as me!) x

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  8. Awesome dress, it's fab in corduroy and the looks great, loving the peek of Liberty on the collar. Perfect dress for the chilly weather that's coming.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, for once, I've managed to get the timing right re the changing seasons! x

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  9. I think it is such a wearable colour with the liberty trims too. It looks really good. Jo x

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  10. Love the dress and the shoes, I happen to have the same pair. I need to make time for some selfish sewing. I offered to make memory cushions for a friend and it went from 4 to 7 to 15. They are all stretch fabrics, I have managed 4 so far. ;)

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  11. Great Autumn dress! A nice casual look, I bet you get a lot of wear out of this one!

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    1. I'm hoping it will be great for autumn!x

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  12. The Rosa is so utterly not my style or something that would suit my body shape. But you look absolutely wonderful in it. What a fabulous, fabulous dress. Love the cord, love the grey and that shape is perfect on you. Soooooo stylish

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    1. Aw thank you very much, what a lovely comment! x

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  13. A corduroy shirtdress! Genius!!

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  14. What THEY said! Excellent workmanship, fabric to pattern and perfect for your shape! I want one also!

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  15. Awesome vintage dress,i love this grey shade.It looks warm and stylish.

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  16. I love your dress, especially the use of the coordinating liberty lawn for the facings. I bought 2 yards of a deep teal velvet cord a few weeks ago and I think I want to make a Rosa Dress from it. I will be making a size 3 top to 4 bottom. Do you think it is realistic to try to make this dress out of 2 yards if I make the facings from a coordinating fabric? I know it calls for 2 3/8 yards but I'm hoping 2 will be enough.

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