Tuesday 28 April 2015

1950's-style shoulder tie dress



Recognise this fabric? It's the one I chose from the Hemingway Designs collection, which Tracey from Trixie Lixie very kindly sent me to try out last year. I always knew I wanted to use the fabric for a summer dress, hence the delay. Well, summer's on its way and I'm ready and waiting with my new sundress!

Initially, I was going to make a shirt dress, but after seeing this pattern illustration with a similar turquoise print, I decided to make a fifties-inspired sundress with shoulder ties. I also wanted to add a bit of white somewhere as I love how the two colours look together.


To draft the bodice I used my bodice block as a starting point, together with the instructions from Casey's tutorial for a 1950's sundress (part one and part two). The tutorial worked fine for me, but if you are thinking of using it, I'd recommend reading both parts before you start. It isn't until part two that Casey advises you to use a sleeveless bodice block to make the sundress. A bodice block or pattern that's originally drafted with a sleeve (as mine is) will have more curve around the armhole. Luckily, I made a muslin first and eventually worked out why my armholes were so baggy!

Take my word for it, the neckline does lie flat when I don't have my hands on my hips!
I deviated slightly from the tutorial in a couple of areas. I lowered the neckline to slightly dip in the middle - the original straight-across design does look authentically 1950's, but it was cutting into my neck at exactly the wrong place. I also swapped the gathered skirt in the tutorial for an A-line skirt (I used the pattern from the Colette Peony dress). I reduced the A-line shape by about 1.5" at each side and added pleats rather than gathers at the top (as I did with my gingham Peony dress). The result is not as eye catching as a full, gathered skirt, but I made the dress with holidays in mind, so the less skirt to contend with, the better!


The fabric is a lovely quality, medium-weight cotton, which is a good match for a semi-structured dress as it's nice and crisp. The one I chose is Duck Egg Grid, which has now sold out unfortunately, but if you like the distinctive grid design, it does feature in the newest Hemingway Designs collection in some lovely pastel colours. I didn't even attempt to pattern match the grid design as it's so busy, but actually, when you look closely, the pattern is separated into grids by dividing white lines. By absolute FLUKE, the gridlines on the bodice and skirt match up perfectly, with no help from me whatsoever. What are the chances eh?!

Matching gridline! It's the same on the other side of the bodice too.
Making this dress wasn't without its trials and I did struggle a bit trying to draft the bodice. I always feel slightly out of my depth when it comes to drafting anything myself, I much prefer the safety net of ready drafted pattern pieces. I got there in the end though and the result is just what I was hoping for - a pretty, practical sundress with a bit of a nod to 1950's styles. I like the fact that simply adding white bias binding around the armholes results in a pair of splendid shoulder ties, such a lovely detail!


For some reason, I seemed to think that putting my hair in a pony tail and leaning ridiculously forward would show off the shoulder detail. Er no! I've included the photo anyway because it makes me laugh.

Bloody halfwit!
This dress will be perfect for my holidays and for all those hot, sunny days which I'm reliably informed are just around the corner!  x

EDIT: If you like the shoulder tie bodice, but don't fancy drafting your own, Maison Fleur have just released their Summer Blouse pattern which has a similar detail. Might be worth checking out.


Fabric was given to me free of charge for review. All views my own.




49 comments:

  1. Such a pretty dress! I love the fabric, too.

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  2. Your dress looks great, the fabric is gorgeous. I just love the shoulder tie detail. I had to go and check my Pinterest boards once I saw your post and discovered (to my horror/shame) that I pinned Casey's tutorial 3 years ago. I know I'm a procrastinator, but that's ridiculous!

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    1. Haha, just checked on my Pinterest board and it's three years ago since I pinned it too! If you like the shoulder detail but don't want to draft your own, just discovered a pattern you might like: https://maisonfleurpatterns.com/product/1301-summer-blouse-pdf-pattern/. Will edit my dress post and include a link there too. x

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    2. Ah, I feel much better now! Thanks for the pattern suggestion. I picked up Butterick 5982 with ideas of adapting it to tie shoulders. Not sure if it will work with princess seams, but I may give it a go once I have a few more garments under my belt.

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  3. Such a lovely dress and interesting pattern and I really like the fabric you have made it up in too! I'm not so sure hat summer is around the corner - we had snow yesterday :-(

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    1. Thank you! It's not snowing here but yes, it's certainly not quite summer yet today! x

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  4. I love it! Really gorgeous....and your last picture/caption made me literally snort out loud with laughter to the point I actually scared my cat! Thanks for that! :-D

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    1. You're welcome! I laugh every time I look at that picture - bloody halfwit indeed! x

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  5. That dress is beautiful! The shoulder detail is so simple but so effective and the fabric really makes the dress. The colour really suits you.

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    1. I agree, the shoulder ties are a lovely detail. Thank you! x

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  6. cute! i was looking at the new maison fleur patterns and there's a very similarly shaped top and thinking how long it would be as a dress!

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    1. Yes, I was looking at that top last night too! I'm going to add a link to it in the blog post in case anybody likes the detail but doesn't want to draft their own! x

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  7. I don't believe it! I saw this pattern a day or 2 ago and pinned it on my Pinterest board to try and hunt down and today bought some fabric that I hope will be perfect!!

    Your dress is lovely...you clever lady!

    I wonder if you might help with this...

    http://noraathome.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/is-there-seamstress-to-help-with.html

    If you can I shall be eternally grateful!

    Ooh! Love your liberty T and barkcloth skirt...I'm keeping up and reading back in the archives too. Keep inspiring xx

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    1. Thank you, I've had it pinned for years meaning to make it! The first time I made the vintage Simplicity blouse I was completely foxed by the instructions too. I'll see if I can explain it in an email, if not, I may have to take a few pics to help you. In the meantime, have a look at this tutorial: http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2013/08/tutorial-attaching-collar-and-facings.html. Some of the techniques are the same and it may help shine a light. x

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    2. Jane! Thank you for directing me to that tutorial...problem solved...

      http://noraathome.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/doh-now-i-get-it.html

      Thanks so much for your time and kindness....now I hope I'll do you proud with my blouse! xx

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  8. This little sundress turned out wonderfully! Great job, and it is a nice thing to see something with a bit of an old fashioned twist. One does not see shoulder ties anymore. Charming!

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    1. Thank you! I'm a great admirer of an old fashioned shoulder strap too! x

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  9. I am obsessed with shoulder ties at the moment and have just completed a dress of my own that features them. Your sun dress has turned out very well, simple but feminine and perfect for holidays. Well done.

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    1. Thank you Christina! I love shoulder ties too, I'm quite tempted to make a top as well now! x

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  10. This is gorgeous! Isn't it lovely to be thinking of making, and wearing, summer dresses?! I have that same fabric (I had to buy after seeing it here!), and I'm thinking of making a wrap dress with it. I love the white edging you've used, that's a great idea.

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    1. Thanks Lynne! That fabric would look lovely as a wrap dress, especially with white edges - the two colours together seem to really work. x

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  11. Lovely, Those little ties are too cute.

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  12. Ooh what a fun and summery dress! And one of those perfect colors for you! I love that you paired it with a holiday-friendly skirt. I sometimes forget about that and then find myself on a trip with several full cotton skirts and absolutely no desire (or ability to!) iron. Yak! The print is so great on this, too. I've always loved shoulder ties, I'm going to have to check out that blouse pattern too!

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    1. I think you would totally rock a shoulder tie dress or top Tasha! x

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  13. I do live the duck egg version - it makes the pattern seem more subtle. I think we need more head tipping forward photos!

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    1. I have to agree, the duck egg colour with the grid design is a perfect match. That head tipping forward photo makes me laugh every single time I look at it! x

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  14. I love that fabric it has a lovely feel of the 50's, you could imagine it being printed on barkcloth. Love the dress lets hope we get lots of sun so you can make the most of it

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    1. I think the fabric is perfectly 50's too! Sadly the sun's looking a bit elusive today - it's pouring with rain in London! x

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  15. What a lovely fresh summery dress.

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  16. Cool drafting skills, Lady Jane! And a perfect use for that gorgeous fabric. I love the bias trim/straps too! xxx

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    1. Thanks Janene! So pleased I got to use the fabric at last, just need some sun now! x

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  17. What a lovely dress! I love the shoulder ties, it adds a little glamour! And you've reminded me that I still haven't sewed up my cushions yet! x

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    1. Thanks Jenna, I'm all for adding a bit of glamour! This fabric would make fabulous cushions, what a great idea. x

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  18. Gorgeous as always. You're such a great seamstress.
    Rosie

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  19. Jane, your dress is gorgeous! I love the tie detail on the shoulders and the fabric is lush- I'm looking for a summer dress pattern myself so this might be a contender! Lexie X

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  20. This is super-duper cute! It screams summer!

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    1. I can't wait for the weather to actually become summer-like too! x

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  21. Really love the fabric and the dress. Unlikely to find it but I'd love to try out a copy of that pattern. I've a list, which I keep adding to.

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    1. Aw I'd love a copy of that pattern too, I don't even know the pattern number, it was the illustration I fell for! x

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  22. If you use a machine then what is handmade about it? Oxford dictionary definition of handmade - 'made by hand, not by machine.'

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  23. Oooo I love it, I wouldn't mind using a floral with the geometric, still keeping the 50's vibe, lovely work Jane.

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  24. You did a good job drafting the bodice Jane. The finished garment is very pretty and "summery."

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