Tuesday 17 March 2015

Barkcloth skirt



Behold my barkcloth skirt! I wanted to make a relatively simple garment to show off the lovely retro fabric design as much as possible, so decided on a vintage pattern from the 1950's. The pattern is Simplicity 3983 which has just the one seam going up the back, so no worrying about pattern matching side seams. As you can see, I didn't make much of an effort to match the shaped pockets and front waistband either. I don't care though, it looks fine!


Having already made this skirt once before, I only made one pattern change, which was to shorten the length by an inch (I'd already taken a gigantic eight inches off the original pattern). I also made a few changes to the construction. I replaced the centred zip with an invisible one and added a faced waistband instead of a Petersham ribbon facing, which is how I finished the waistband on my first version. I also positioned the zip so that it runs through the waistband (like you find on the Delphine and Ginger skirt patterns). I know some people like a waistband starting above the zip, but I personally prefer them integrated. It's not authentically vintage but I like how it looks.


I added a white silk-cotton lining using this method, and used some scraps of cotton lawn for the pockets.


The barkcloth fabric is Ripple in Navy from The Village Haberdashery, part of the Time Warp collection by Jessica Jones. Here's what I would advise if you're thinking of working with barkcloth:

- The feel of barkcloth is quite rough against the skin, so if you're planning on using it for garment making, I'd advise underlining with a very light fabric or adding a separate lining.

- Barkcloth has quite a loose weave and is liable to stretch slightly when cut on the bias. This happened with my curved front pocket facings, but it actually turned out in my favour as they now allow a bit more room to get my hands in!  Just be careful to staystitch any curved edges and try not to over stretch when pressing.

- The fabric frays and unravels quite noticeably, so I ended up overlocking all raw edges quite early on in the proceedings.

Apart from that it didn't behave any differently from a linen or cotton. I used a regular needle in my machine and it sewed together beautifully. Even though I knew the fabric was brand spanking new, I still felt like I was working with a piece of 1950's barkcloth, it just looks vintage!


I'm delighted with the finished skirt - it's contemporary but the fabric gives it a vintage edge, which is my favourite combination! I've paired it with a jumper for these pictures because it's still cold and I'm a wuss, but I can totally see it working with this, this, this and even this!!

And because I used a vintage pattern, I'm counting this as my first contribution to this year's Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge. I only pledged to sew up one pattern, but it's not this one, so consider this a bit of a Brucie Bonus!  x


Fabric was given to me free of charge for review. All views my own.


51 comments:

  1. The fabric is lovely and the skirt looks great.

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  2. i really love this. must get my hands on some of that fabric!

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  3. Hi Jane, that is really lovely and fresh for summer. I love the shape. Can I ask where you get your lining from? I am looking for some good quality lining for summer clothes. Thanks, Grace

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    1. Thank you, I love the shape too! I got my lining from the Goldhawk Rd, I think Classic Textiles sells it and a couple of others too. x

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    2. Thanks, I was thinking that my sister is due a visit...

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  4. Love this, what a great pattern and the fabric is lovely.

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    1. Thanks! The fabric is super gorgeous! x

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  5. I love this fabric and I love this skirt. May need to copy soon!

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  6. I'm a very, very, very inexperienced dressmaker, so bear with me. Is there any reason I couldn't take the simple A-line skirt pattern I've already perfected and tape the pattern pieces together so it's essentially the same as this skirt minus the pockets? Is this a thing people do? Except, how is this skirt shaped at the side hip if it's only one piece? Are there darts there?

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    1. I don't see why not, as long as the A line shape isn't too exaggerated. You do need darts in the hip section to give shape. On this pattern there are a total of four back darts - two on either side of the zip. Hope this helps. x

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  7. The fabric is lovely and it’s a beautiful match with the pattern.

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    1. Thanks! I think they're a good match too! x

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  8. I'm intrigued by the one piece pattern - very economical on fabric, I should think. It looks beautiful. I think a basic pencil skirt would be a good starting point to make the one piece, with a bit A shaping to the sides first and then transferring the existing darts and the side seam shaping as a new dart. Might have to try it as I have the perfect piece of fabric that might just be enough. Thank you for the inspiration.

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    1. That's the claim on the pattern envelope too, "cut in one piece and can be made of only one yard of 54" fabric." Magic! Yes,I think a pencil skirt shape would be a good place to start, then add a bit of shaping. The A line in this skirt is quite subtle actually. Good luck! x

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  9. Love your Brucie bonus skirt :-) The pattern shows off the fabric beautifully and it's such a lovely, Spring colour too.

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    1. Aha, I knew somebody would like my Brucie Bonus reference! The colour is lovely, so lovely in fact that I've had to buy a new pair of sandals especially to show it off! x

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  10. Beautiful skirt. It's totally your style and works well with the blouses you've made. I have my eye on that range too.

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    1. Thank you, I'm hoping it will be a good match for lots of my tops! x

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  11. What a lovely skirt! There are definitely many ways it can be worn. I am intrigued by the pattern, as it has no side seams.

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    1. I think I'll take a few photos of the pattern to explain the one seam a bit more clearly. And thank you! x

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  12. Now that looks special Jane! You might see that reproduced a few times in the near future - and not just by me xx

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  13. Fab skirt. Love the pattern and the pockets on the front give it such a vintage feel. I've got a bit of bark cloth at home myself but I've been to scared to cut into it yet. Your advice has speed me on. Thanks Jane.
    Rosie

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    1. That's good to hear, go for it! And you're very lucky having a piece of bark cloth to play with! x

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  14. I have been following your sewing blog for several years, but I can't for the life of me remember the red polka dot skirt! I love this skirt, the pattern, and that it falls beautifully on your body. Nicely done! I need to buy some bark cloth.

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    1. Ah the red polka dot skirt must have slipped through the net! It wasn't a very exciting post I must admit! Yes, I think this skirt is one of those projects where everything marries together really well! Thank you! x

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  15. Gawd, I love that print!!
    Very nice skirt, and I will try your version of zip/waist band combo. Up until now, I've always made an overlapping waistband with hooks and bars, but it is extra work and really not always that neat-looking. Thanks for the tip!

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    1. So do I! I prefer the zip/waistband combo for exactly the same reasons as you! x

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  16. I've been trying to get my head round the pattern - with only a back seam, how do you get the pockets??Beautiful fabric choice btw

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    1. I think a blog post showing the different parts of the pattern is in order! It all makes sense once you see it but it's difficult to get your head round beforehand! Will post something soon. x

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  17. I love it. I have ordered an invisible zip foot just waiting for it to arrive, I also need to get my hands on some invisible zips. I made the Delphine skirt last week, I can't decide if the shape suite me or not but my toile is wearable so I will give it a spin and see how I feel. :)

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    1. The exaggerated A line of the Delphine skirt is not for everybody! I happen to really like it though and it's a really easy pattern to sew up. Good luck with your invisible zips! x

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  18. Lovely skirt, and the fabric works really well with the pattern.
    The single pattern piece (not counting the pockets...) has me very tickled and I hope you won't mind that I've just purchased a copy of S3983 for myself from etsy! It wasn't remotely my size but I figure it must be one of the easiest ones to grade up (assuming it's a case of getting the width right, then placing the pockets accordingly!).

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    1. Haha, that's hilarious! For some reason this one seam skirt seems to have really intrigued people. I'm going to do a blog post on it soon. Let me know how you get on with grading the pattern. X

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  19. Wonderful fabric choice, Jane, and beautifully sewn up!

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  20. Looks great, and I love the fabric.
    I spoke to you at the knitting and stitching thing show on the first day, you had been looking at some vintage fabrics, did you buy any? It was lovely to meet you as you've really inspired me to get back into dress making, Thanks x

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    1. I remember meeting you Ann, so pleased I've inspired you to get back into dressmaking! I was obviously still procrastinating when I met you! I DID go back and buy the fabric, I wrote about it in this post http://www.handmadejane.co.uk/2015/03/silk-crepe-de-chine-madness.html
      Lovely to meet you. x

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  21. What a great print! It's very cool!!!!!

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  22. Your skirt looks lovely! I have this skirt pattern and have made it up once before. I'd like to sew it up again using some of the modifications you mentioned in this post, notably the zipper in the waistband and the lining. Thanks for the tips and links!

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    1. You should try the modifications, I much prefer this version to my first version, it feels a lot more contemporary. And thank you! x

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  23. This is just fabulous Jane! Love the pattern you've used and it really does show off the fabric so well. Bethx

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    1. Thanks Beth! I'm totally happy with it! x

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  24. HI Jane

    Just wondering where you got the pattern? I can't seem to locate it here in NZ or overseas.
    Clare

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    1. Hi Clare, it's a vintage pattern from the 1950's so not readily available I'm afraid. Your best bet may be to look for it on eBay or etsy - I think I picked mine up on etsy. Good luck! x

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