As lashing rain seems to be flavour of the month, I thought today was the perfect time to do a bit of research into making my own raincoat. As usual, I have an exact picture in my head of how I'd like it to look, but can I find a pattern to match it? Nope.
Here's my checklist for the perfect raincoat pattern:-
- Single breasted
- Full length sleeves
- Medium sized collar
- No hood (I'm an umbrella girl!)
- Knee length
- Reasonably fitted but not tight
- Possibly princess seams
I didn't seem to have any luck at all with modern patterns, and there don't actually seem to be many that are specifically for raincoats. The exception to this is the Sewaholic Robson pattern - a classic double breasted trench style that seems to get the thumbs up from everybody who's made it. I've seen Winnie's red version in real life and it's awesome. But sadly for me, it won't work because double breasted anything just looks hideous on me. So I went down the vintage route. This also wasn't as straight forward as I was expecting - raincoats in the olden days were either double breasted or voluminous, or both.
A lot of the 1950's and 1960's coat patterns I saw (not specifically raincoats) were either swing coats or A line in shape. They often fall straight down from the bust line, and although they have an elegant look, they're just too big for my frame.
I want to have a large enough coat to protect me from the rain but don't really want to be dwarfed and/or look pregnant in the process. I think the more fitted look from the late 1960's/early 1970's is a bit closer to what I'm after. Here's a shortlist of what I found:
A classic Crombie style coat, which would have to be worn with the belt to get any shape.
This Simplicity pattern isn't bad, I like the long sleeved option but the collar might be a need toning down a bit.
I love the princess seams on this McCall's pattern, this is very close to the fitted look I'm after.
Whereas the princess lines on this one may be a bit too exaggerated, even for me?
The single breasted green version ticks a lot of boxes.
This is more or less the same pattern, but much classier looking (except for version C!) It might just be a bit too A line in shape though.
Lots of potential there, but I think I've now got to the point where I need your help. Do I start scouring eBay and Etsy trying to find one of the vintage patterns that have taken my fancy? Or do you know of a modern pattern that's very similar in style to what I've just described? It doesn't have to be a specific raincoat pattern, it could just be a regular coat pattern that I can make with waterproof fabric. If you have any ideas or suggestions for patterns, please let me know in the comments, I'd be SSOO grateful. Thank you! x
I would either go for Simplicity 5526 (but maybe add a belt) or 5928 (which I find awesome in many ways), but that's just me of course!
ReplyDeleteIt's not just you, it IS awesome! x
DeleteDefo 5928, it rocks!!. It is very likely the styling in the envelope that makes it look so frocked. You could always shave a little of the A line of the panels if you didn't like it. Easier to do than to add shape to a shapeless pattern?
DeleteAgreed, great idea Mrs C, thank you! x
DeleteThere has been some single breasted raincoat patterns in Burda and La Mia Boutique in recent years. I sent for a Marfy sometime ago but I have yet to make it up. Marfy despatch quickly from Italy and you could have it in a few days.
ReplyDeleteYou've found some nice coat patterns but none strike me as raincoats! Do you have fabric already?
Thanks for this. I saw an almost perfect Burda raincoat pattern, it even had seam allowances already added! Definitely worth thinking about.
DeleteI think all the patterns look exactly like raincoats, but maybe my idea of a raincoat isn't normal?! I haven't bought fabric yet, I'm thinking of something similar to the one Winnie used.
Have you looked at Maria Denmark - shoponion patterns. There are a couple there that might work in water repellent cottons like the 1047 and 1038 patterns.I don't suit double breasted either, but have had success with some of these patterns, although maybe the collars aren't quite what you are after.
ReplyDeleteThanks Jen, I like Maria Denmark patterns, so this might be an option. Although as you say, the collars aren't quite what I had in mind. x
DeleteI really like the mccalls 8006, classic simple lines and you can make it a size larger so its not so fitted. But my suggestion is try Winnie's robson and see how you look! I am sure you are going to like it. By experience I did the cordoba jacket by sewaholic thinking those hip ruffles will not favor me. I was very wrong! I love how they disguise my hips and flatters my waist. Dont judge a pattern by its cover... it could be very flattering.
ReplyDeleteGood idea about going a size larger and McCall's 8006 is probably my favourite of the lot! I'll try Winnie's coat on next time I see her but my gut feeling is I won't like it. There's just something about the double breasted front and the flaps that doesn't do it for me! Never say never though! x
DeleteI love McCalls 8006 too! I especially like the pocket placement. I have a trench coat/raincoat very similar to this pattern, and I always feel so classy when I wear it.
DeleteI'd vote for this one too
DeleteLoving 8006 too, very classic.
DeleteThe McCalls 8006 would look lovely (in red with a polka dot lining)!
ReplyDeleteI agree, and you've just read my mind! x
DeleteWhat about Deer&Doe's Pavot coat?
ReplyDeleteGreat idea, it's really lovely. It's got me thinking - maybe I could adjust the pattern for my Abbey coat to get a very similar look? Thanks for the idea. X
DeleteHello Jane, This one is on my wishlist - Burdastyle 7041 - would it meet your requirements?
ReplyDeletehttp://www.simplicity.com/p-9812-burda-style-coat.aspx
Oooh yes it's fab, it's definitely gone on my list! Thank you! x
DeleteI'm half way through the Sewaholic Robson Trench coat and feeling guilty as it has been put to one side for now. I over complicated it by underlining and bound button holes. I'm determined to get it done for spring! Good luck with your choice and looking forward to seeing the finished article.
ReplyDeleteI'll keep an eye out for your finished Robson! x
DeleteYou may be waiting some time! It's the 'elephant' in the sewing cupboard at the moment.
DeleteI've done this research too - just last year when I was looking for a summer weight raincoat. Our specifications are slightly different but you can take a look at what I uncovered....
ReplyDeletehttp://corecouture.wordpress.com/2012/06/21/mac-thoughts/
McCalls 8006 is my favourite from your list
Brilliant, thank you! Am now going to sit down and peruse your list. How funny that we both did the same research! x
DeleteHi Jane
ReplyDeleteI have the Vogue Basic Design 2412 pattern if that's any good to you? I'd be happy to post it you if it works/helps x
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Oh how generous, thank you! I'll let you know if I need it once I've stopped prevaricating! x
DeleteI love all of these, especially Simplicity 6671.
ReplyDeleteThey're all great! I just bought this one: http://butterick.mccall.com/b5966-products-47659.php?page_id=147 although it has no collar that you are searching for. :)
ReplyDeleteI love the McCalls too...very elegant!
ReplyDeleteOoh, I've always wanted to try my hand at raincoat making. :) Amy Butler has a pattern that may work, if you eliminate the hood: http://www.amybutlerdesign.com/products/patterns_display.php?id=45
ReplyDeleteI have no suggestions. I just wanted to commiserate on the frustration of marrying yourself to an idea and being unable to find what you need to complete it. My current quest involves finding the perfect cotton sateen for my daughter's Christmas dress. Or Tilda Christmas cotton that doesn't cost as much as myrrh. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteGood luck to you too! x
DeleteHow exciting, I wish I had the confidence and know how to try one of these. My absolute favourite is 8006 with 6969 a close second. I have 5928 in bust 37 and also 6671 (but I need to remember where I've put that one so not sure of size) if you'd like to borrow them, let me know.
ReplyDeleteOooh thank you, that's so kind! I'll email you once I've made my mind up. X
DeleteI like Burda 7401, the left-hand version. Added to my wishlist!
ReplyDeleteI've been googling waterproof fabrics but not much coming up locally (Australia). I need to shlep down to the city and check out the fabric stores in person.
Look forward to seeing what you come up with :-)
Thanks, have put Burda 7041 on my list too! x
DeleteI'm liking Simplicity Sewing Pattern 2057, rather a lot.
ReplyDeleteThanks for that suggestion, I'm liking it rather a lot too! x
DeleteThe McCalls 8006 pattern is my favourite. It looks like it'd suit a petite frame.
ReplyDeletewhat about burda vintage 7041-V ?
ReplyDeleteSimplicity 5928 is perfection!
ReplyDeleteLashing with rain down here and relentless spring gales - a raincoat post is very timely! I'd vote for the McCalls 8006 pattern - nice proportions.
ReplyDeleteOoh, what about Simplicity 2508:
ReplyDeletehttp://www.simplicity.com/p-3064-misses-jackets.aspx
It has single-breasted options, and the view made up in tartan in the photos looks very raincoatish.
I was all excited because I immediately thought of a pattern I've had lurking about for a while: Burda 3077. Single breasted, princess, semi-fitted...but not with the classic raincoat collar...more of a suit style collar.
ReplyDeleteBut you seem to have an excellent selection to work from, so it's all good, really ;-)
http://www.simplicity.com/p-7246-burda-style-coat.aspx
ReplyDeleteAlso sprang up in my post pattern-thinking pattern-viewing.
Sorry for suggesting the hood. I just read that you are not a hood girl and prefer an umbrella. I don't like what hoods can do to my hair but they are great to have if caught unprepared.
ReplyDelete