Thursday 3 October 2013

Couture Inside Out - 1950's Paris and London

When Janene from ooobop! asked me if I'd like to join her at the Couture Inside Out workshop yesterday I nearly bit her hand off! 

The event was at the London Fashion and Textile Museum and it was an absolute corker of an afternoon. Our charming curator - Dennis Nothdruft - talked us through the construction and history of couture pieces by Dior, Chanel and Balenciaga (amongst others). Not only did we get to see these beautiful, beautiful frocks up close, we were also allowed to touch them! Yes, we did have to wear cotton gloves to keep our grubby mitts off the fabric but that didn't stop us pawing over every painstaking, hand stitched detail.

Just look at all that hand stitching!

Sadly, my short term memory is hopeless and I had to keep scurrying into the corner to take notes (no pens allowed near couture darling). Janene however, appears to have remembered every single detail of the talk just by using her brain! If you'd like a bit more detail than my sorry attempt then have a look at her excellent account here. In the meantime, here are a few things I learnt from Dennis:

In French couture, garments are hand sewn to fit the wearer perfectly. If, on the odd occasion sewing machines had to be used, then the stitching was not allowed to be visible on the outside of the garment.

Christian Dior only actually designed for 10 years: from 1947 until his early death in 1957.

Genuine Dior couture dresses came as two pieces worn together: a corset top with an underskirt and a separate overskirt. 

Dior corset with underskirt

And the details! For me it was the details that really made these garments so special. The chain sewn into the hem of a Chanel jacket so that it hangs perfectly...


A Pierre Balmain label sewn onto the garment with mitred corners so it doesn't catch against the skin...

Picture stolen from ooobop!


Garter belts built into the dress...!


Hand sewn rolled hems....


Absolutely perfect bound buttonholes...


And the one that blows me away, 44, yes 44 handworked hooks and eyes sewn onto this Bellville Sassoon embroidered coat. 


That's one for every year of my life, which is probably how long it would take me to complete the same job!

I learnt a lot (Dennis really does know his stuff) and it was a real privilege to be allowed to see and touch these amazing couture pieces. Yes, there were some couture techniques I saw that were way out of my skill range, but I was surprised and pleased at how many were well within my capabilities. 

A later, one piece Dior gown with perfectly aligned pleats.

We came out of the workshop feeling not only inspired, but really proud of our own modest handmade achievements.  I think it's well worth keeping an eye out for when the next Couture Inside Out event is being held. If you can blag yourself an afternoon off to attend, then I heartily recommend it, it was a wonderful experience. I leave you with a picture of the lovely Dennis, flanked by Janene and Jane. Look how tall he is! And we were both wearing heels too! x






22 comments:

  1. That must have been a breathtaking experience... There might be a small trip to London somewhere in the future so I'm definitely keeping an eye out for this!

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    1. Oh you really should, it's well worth it! x

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  2. How very very cool! It's amazing that some items were completely constructed and sewn by hand. Just imagine the number of man hours (or more likely woman hours) that went into just one haute couture gown!

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    1. I know, it's difficult to comprehend isn't it?! x

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  3. wow sounds amazing. I always get a bit freaky near anything important like wedding dresses or couture. I think I would just have to leave with my memories because of my clumsiness with pen and what have you.

    xxx

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    1. I know what you mean, I kept thinking I was going to accidentally dribble on the dresses in my excitement! x

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  4. Aww you look like you had a fabulous time. I know Dennis well and I've helped with a few exhibitions there! It always amazes me what i'm allowed to touch! x

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    1. Oooh you lucky thing Stevie! I wish I knew Dennis, I'd bend his ear about couture until he was sick to death of me! x

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  5. Wow I bet you had a brilliant time, I'd love to attend that workshop, I'm guessing it's given you plenty of ideas too!

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  6. Wish I'd been there. I had seen this advertised by completely forgot to book. You look like you had an amazing time.

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  7. This looks amazing I had never heard of this place till now. At first I thought it was Clothworkers' Centre for the Study and Conservation of Textiles and Fashion which I know opens soon. (V&A). Both look amazing and I would love to see some of the beautiful objects Thank you for sharing I'm sure it was very inspirational.

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  8. I only heard about the exhibition this week and made up my mind to go, will definitely see if they are having any more of these talks, maybe it will inspire me to take more care in my own projects to make them more 'couture' rather than 'slapdash'!

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  9. Wow, looks like a terrific class and such inspiring fashions!

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  10. What an amazing afternoon !

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  11. You lucky lady. That sounds like a once in a lifetime experience. Couture is so mind blowing.
    Rosie xx

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  12. That looks amazing, and I'm very jealous. Also the picture of you and Janene and Dennis is the cutest thing ever!!

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  13. Why is it that history lessons are so much more interesting than when we were in school. You are so lucky to have such a wonderful experience and I'm sure you learned so much.

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  14. I'm so envious! Looks like so much fun. Thanks for sharing!

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  15. Thank you so much for showing us the pics. I'm fascinated by hand worked couture garments and this post scratched all the right places. A grand day out.

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  16. I'm almost holding my breath while getting to see these beauties through your pics. Thanks so much.

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  17. 44 hand sewn hooks and eyes, I hate those things!!! It took me three attempts to sew *one* on my Hawthorn blouse and in the end I gave up and put a snap on instead! I'm with you Jane, would have taken me years. What an amazing experience glad you had a great day.

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  18. Wow, looks like an amazing day! I love seeing these details, when I was a student, the head of our course had a special room where she kept precious vintage clothing and costumes and occasionally we were allowed to see them. Heaven, pure heaven. Bethx

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