Sunday, 20 November 2016

Preparing for a red coat

Over the past few weeks I've been slowly gathering supplies for a winter coat, which I'm pretty excited about. I already have a gorgeous navy winter coat from Jaeger which I saved up for - I've worn it every winter for about five years and it's still going strong, but I fancy a change. I'd like a red coat, partly because I don't own one and I'd like to remedy that, but also because I need a coat to match my new red gloves. Only joking! (or am I?…)


When I was searching for inspiration I did spot a couple of very glamorous red coats pinned to my Red board on Pinterest, but they're both quite voluminous shapes, which tend to dwarf my petite frame. 



What I was after was a classic fitted coat with a collar, a bit like a longer version of this Modcloth jacket.



I found it in McCall's 7058. This pattern has a truly hideous front cover which does an excellent job of masking the classic, well drafted pattern within. 
There are plenty of options all based around the same princess-seamed shape: a short, Chanel-style collarless jacket, two hip length jackets (one belted, one hooded), two mid length coats and a long hooded coat (phew). I've decided to go for a mash up of views B and C.


Manju made a very stylish interlined wool version here and I've taken some great tips from her excellent review. My main coat fabric will be a wool twill coating from Fabric Godmother, which now seems to be sold out unfortunately.


It's a lovely bright red and feels very warm. I know Manju also interlined/underlined her version with pyjama flannel for extra warmth and I'm still debating whether to do this on mine. What do you think?

I'll be lining it with this Dusky Steel Blue lining fabric from Ditto which I think is a nice contrast to the red. 


I've also bought some good quality interfacing from English Couture and have invested in a tailors clapper for a professional finish on all those seams. I'm all set!

I did a tissue fitting and the size 14 seems to fit well. The good thing about this pattern is that there is a petite sizing option which I've taken full advantage of. Each pattern piece is shortened by a total of two inches: an inch at bodice height and an inch at skirt/knee height, which is a perfect proportion for my build. The sleeves are also shortened at two different points without affecting the shape of the elbow dart.

Now I just need to steam shrink my wool fabric and pre-wash my lining, then I can start cutting out (eek!) There's no immediate deadline to get this coat finished, so I intend to take my time over it and enjoy the process - I'll keep you posted on my progress! x




30 comments:

  1. What a lovely plan for a red coat - I look forward to seeing the end result!

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    1. Thank you, can't wait to get started! x

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  2. Good luck. Your fabric choices and pattern look great so I imagine it will be a beautiful coat when you are finished.

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  3. Good luck on your coat. I made a red melton wool coat in March. I wore it exactly once before it turned too warm. I was so glad to wear it last week. I used an OOP Kwik Sew pattern. It's a pea coat. I used flannel backed satin for the lining and interlined with cotton batiste. I'm cold natured so I think you should add the flannel. I guess it depends on your weather and how cold it gets in winter. Can't wait to see your finished coat.

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    1. Great advice, thanks. I think I will add the flannel, it will make the coat more substantial too. I'll probably finish the coat by Christmas and our coldest months are January and February so the timing will be perfect! x

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  4. Can't wait to see it finished. Love the pattern you selected.

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    1. Thank you, I think the pattern has good bones! x

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  5. It's going to look great! I love the lining colour you have chosen too.

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    1. It's lovely isn't it? A really unusual colour. x

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  6. Hi Jane, I agree the envelope picture (like many of the BMV patterns) don't do the pattern inside justice. I found it to be a great pattern: quite simple to sew but with some nice details and I don't regret adding the interlining. The red is of course totally you and I love your gloves!

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    1. Thanks Manju! Your coat turned out beautifully and your review has so many great tips - really helpful. i can't wait to wear matching coat and gloves!

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  7. Well, Jane, you do look FABULOUS in red, so I am anxiously awaiting see you in this coat! I think your lining material is spot-on. Please let us know what you think of the pattern. I might like to use this pattern for a casual jacket, a 3/4 length, maybe with a hood. I am excited for you!

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    1. Thanks, I'm excited too! Will certainly let you know how I get on with the pattern. x

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  8. Oh fantastic! Funnily enough i have some red wool in the post too, although I'll probably go for a voluminous style 😂 V9040 has got nice lines and pockets you may like (with plain sleeves)! Looking forward to seeing what you make!

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    1. I love red wool, it's cosy but still feels super chic to me. Looking forward to seeing what you use yours for too! x

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  9. Good Luck, a coat is a slow burner so enjoy. I just finished my winter coat with similar features - collar button front but from a 1960's pattern. There were those scant instructions you get on vintage patterns like 'fit collar' and 'make a bound buttonhole' ! See here:
    http://joeveryday19.blogspot.co.uk/2016/11/diary-of-vintagepledge-coat-challenge.html

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    1. What a fabulous result Jo, it's gorgeous! That same vintage pattern was actually on my list when I was making a raincoat a few years ago. Enjoyed reading your coat diary too. x

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  10. I will watch with interest. I too am desperate for a red coat and I love the style you've chosen. And the colour

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  11. What is with McCall's and their terrible photos for coats? :D I'm making 7442 and the styling for that is a cracker, despite the fact that it's a really nice coat with a pretty circle skirt. And the petite lines are a win.

    Definitely splurge on some underlining if you're just using a traditional lining fabric and not a flannel back satin or kasha. I underlined a cape with fleece one year, and it's so toasty, which means you don't need to otherwise layer up. And it's one of those rare moments where sewing a garment is less expensive than buying an equivalent garment on the high street!

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    1. Yes, I've definitely decided to underline, hoorah! And I looked up the cover envelope for M7442, that is truly dreadful! x

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  12. Ooo, this is going to be lovely. I'm planning a green winter coat, but my fabric order keeps being delayed!! Good luck with yours.

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    1. Liking the sound of your green coat, hope your fabric arrives soon! x

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  13. Hi sounds like it will be a lovely coat and red sounds great. I would underline it if you can. I made a wool coat last year and underlining it made it nice and toasty. Happy sewing

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    1. You've convinced me! I'll be underlining it for sure! x

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  14. Love the classic style of the pattern and I love that it looks slim and fitted. A style you will be able to wear for years. Going to be really fun to see you get on with the coat. Good luck!!

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    1. It was the classic style that drew me to the pattern, I think it has great potential. x

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  15. really looking forward to be good enough at sewing to make a coat! And aren't red coats particularly pretty? Have fun with this one :)

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