Wednesday 21 January 2015

Sewing by the rules

For the past week I've been making another Mortmain dress by Gather Kits. This time round though, it's not for me - it's a sample for Badger and Earlto publicise a future Mortmain dressmaking class. My brief was to sew it up exactly as instructed in the pattern, but once I was making it, I realised it differed quite a lot from the first version I made, back in the summer.

The Mortmain dress

I'd always thought I was quite an obedient type when it came to following pattern instructions, but in reality, that's not the case. Here's what I did differently the first time round, when left to my own devices:

1) Box pleats sewn the reverse to what was instructed in the pattern i.e. pleating from the right side of the fabric rather than the wrong side. To be fair, this is suggested in the pattern as an alternative so I wasn't being a complete rebel!

This is how I made the pleats originally….
….and this is the sample showing what they should look like. It's actually quite a subtle difference
2) Invisible zip used instead of the exposed metal zip which is a feature of the pattern. I'm still on the fence about exposed zips, especially in such a feminine dress. Personally, I think they work better on more robust looking garments. Still, I learnt a new skill whilst making the sample (how to insert an exposed zip), which I'm pleased about, and I think the zip does look good, I'm just not sure if it's for me!


3) Armholes finished with bias binding instead of the self fabric facings in the pattern. I realise that armhole facings need to have a bit of width to them to sit nicely, but I still prefer the neater, trimmer finish when using bias binding. The compromise is that bias binding doesn't give you the seamless finish you get with facings (unless, of course, you catchstitch it down by hand, which has never worked successfully for me).

Admittedly, you do get a lovely clean finish on the armholes with a facing
I also added interfacing to the waistband pieces and underlined the entire dress, but that was more down to fabric choice than me being a maverick! They're not big changes by any means, but I'm surprised there were so many of them - in my head, I thought I'd sewn up the dress more or less exactly as the pattern dictated (minus the zip). I didn't think I was such a madam with my sewing!  

When I first started sewing I slavishly followed sewing patterns exactly as written, terrified of deviating in case it all went horribly wrong. Over time, I've learnt that if a design detail doesn't rock your boat or you know of an easier/neater/faster way of getting the same result, then it's a no brainer to make a few changes to the pattern. Plus, I'm all for putting your own stamp on things! The obvious exception to this is pattern testing, where the whole point of the exercise is that you follow directions exactly to check they make sense.

I suppose the more confident you become with your own changes, the more you're inclined to start pattern hacking left, right and centre. Using the bodice from one pattern, the skirt from another and even the sleeves from a third can produce wonderful results! 

I'd be interested to know where you stand on this. Do you obediently sew by the rules and never deviate? Or do you slash, hack and mix up your patterns to your heart's content?!  x 

52 comments:

  1. you know - I think I prefer the pleats on your original version so heres to deviation! However being an engineer I like to follow instructions exactly as written! I do like the fabric you made the sample in - it's got me thinking of spring :-D x

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    1. Having made both types of pleats, I think I prefer the original ones too! Interesting having an engineer's precision point of view on this, thanks!
      Yes, the sample fabric is lovely isn't it? Badger and Earl supplied it, I'll find out what it is. x

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  2. It's funny, when I first started sewing I literally didn't understand what people meant when they said "I didn't follow the instructions". I was like errrr you must be a super genius?! But now I find myself doing it all the time, and swapping one finish for another. I think it's mostly something that comes with experience! It doesn't help that a lot of Big 4 patterns don't give you much information anyway (especially on things like finishing, and tailoring). Fun experiment though!

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    1. Haha, I was exactly the same, how could they NOT follow every single instruction?! And you're right about Big 4 patterns lacking information, my current pattern (Burda) only has one main paragraph of instructions, and it's for a coat! x

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  3. Oh gosh no, I basically never follow the directions given. Either because I'm making design deviations or because I have my own favourite ways of doing things by now - especially things like hemming (nearly always blind) and finishing arms/necks (nearly always bias tape facing). I don't even remember what I did on earlier projects, but a lot of googling probably factored in! I also have to say that I usually much prefer the directions and methods given by indies as opposed to the Big 4, who seem overly keen on facings and less bothered about having all seams neatly finished/enclosed. Indies often go into a lot more detail and have handy tips, so I'll always read their method, even if I don't follow it all.

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    1. Good point. Yes, I also have my favourite way of doing things and will often use methods from one pattern to another e.g. using the method for machining lining to an invisible zip from the Emery dress pattern. x

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  4. I am totally in LOVE with your original version with the Lemons, and I agree with you about exposed zips although Guthrie & Garnie do a really nice range that have a scalloped edging which is a bit more feminine.

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    1. Aw thank you! An exposed zip with scallops sounds like a good compromise, thanks.

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  5. I like your take on the Mortmain. The pleats are more flattering and I love the lemons. I think exposed zips work best on shift dresses. The sample you are making is looking great, such cute fabric. I'm not a slave to the rule book but I haven't pattern hacked much. I'm always bowled over by other hacks though.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, exposed zips do look good on shift dresses, especially in a solid colour. Some of the pattern hacks I've seen have been sooooo inspiring! x

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  6. I think if you started sewing pre google days then following directions was the only way I could. Now that I've sewn so much more I pick my favourite method or Google a different way to do it if I don't like/understand the pattern instructions. no exposed zippers for me.

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    1. Online tutorials are invaluable for working out how to perfect tricky bits, it's especially helpful seeing things visually rather than written down. x

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  7. Gorgeous fabric... But the exposed zipper ruins it for me!
    I definitely like to make changes as I go.

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    1. Now that I've made a dress with one, the exposed zipper is growing on me! x

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  8. This is an interesting question, and one I've thought about most recently because I'm finally beginning to get to the point where I am doing things my own way instead of always following instructions. It happens almost unconsciously, although I do review the pattern instructions before I begin and follow them for bits I'm unfamiliar with. I guess at this point for me I'm starting to realize that sometimes I actually know more than I think I do, and sewing is becoming more enjoyable as a result - I feel like it's becoming more intuitive rather than feeling like I'm stumbling blindly through! I agree, this definitely leads to a certain amount of confidence when it comes to pattern hacking/drafting - I've been delving into that territory more as well! ^_^

    I'm not really a fan of the exposed zipper, not sure why but it's never appealed to me. It kind of reads like the garment is on inside out LOL. That said, I really like the other design details of the dress; box or reverse pleats are so clean looking and I love the separate waistband :) I agree with you - facings are such a pain, but they do give a nice clean finish :) Like you, I tend to favour bias facing myself although if the garment warrants it, it is sometimes more worthwhile to line or underline the bodice, since you get both the clean finish of a facing without the dreaded facing misbehaviours! LOL

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    1. Good point about adding a lining - it's the perfect way to get a clean finish without a facing. I think sewing does become more intuitive the longer you do it and definitely more enjoyable - because we know what we're doing! x

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  9. I'm with you on the zip. I put one of those fancy Japanese zips in a floral Anna - have never worn it. I thought the zip would make it less frumpy, I need to replace it with an invisible zip. Got a denim tunic with an exposed zip and it looks fine. I love the fabric, I must have some!

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    1. To me, a denim tunic is the perfect candidate for an exposed zip! x

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  10. I made a dress for a friend and she expressed relief that I didn't put in an exposed zip. They're so commonplace now, she'd come to expect them as a norm. I agree that they look good on some fabrics, but if they're to be one of the main features,. let's have good choice of colour, zip pulls, scallops, etc

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    1. Yes, that's true, exposed zips only seem to be available in black, white or cream. Although I believe Gather Kits are planning to stock lots of different coloured ones soon.

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  11. Can I just say that I prefer all of our choices over the pattern original! I think you are especially right regarding the exposed zip. I love them, but I think they need to be on an edgy pattern, not on a vintage inspired one.
    I think as long as there are several good ways of doing something there is no reason to have to do it one particular way. I`m all for being a maverik ;-)

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    1. I tend to stick to the way of doing things that gets good results or the one that's easiest and quickest (I'm a bit of a maverick, but a lazy one!) x

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  12. I'm really not that experienced of a sewer, but the only time I follow the instructions is if it's not super clear what I'm supposed to do or how I'm supposed to do it. I kinda like to go my own way these days.

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    1. Sometimes I need to sit down and read the instructions properly on tricky bits too. It's always a good thing to go your own way though! x

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  13. Funny! I'd by no means describe myself as anything beyond an experienced beginner who really should follow the instructions, but sometimes I just can't! And this isn't just for sewing, my husband despairs of my inability to pick up an instruction manual and actually 'read' it, I'd far rather just improvise ;-) Beautiful fabric and do like the exposed zipper, though generally prefer shorter ones at the back of tops.

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    1. Haha, I bet you don't follow recipes exactly either! I prefer the look of shorter exposed zips too, 22 inches is an awful lot of zip on show! x

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  14. Great dress. I agree with you on exposed zips..I think they are more suited to edgy garments. I think both pleat options are nice.

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    1. I think they look better on edgy garments too, thanks Margo! x

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  15. Oh, goodness, I rarely follow the rules! It's terrible! You're second Mortmain is as lovely as the first. The fabric is darling - where did you find it?

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    1. Thanks Sarah! The fabric was chosen by the ladies at Badger and Earl, I'll find out what it's called and let you know. x

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  16. I would have said I followed instructions as I'm not experienced enough to do otherwise - but in reality I don't completely follow as I add linings, change the type of zip etc. I very much dislike the exposed zipper - that may be an age thing, too? If I made this dress, it would be like your original, with an invisible zipper. I don't have the pattern but I'm interested in the method for machining lining to an invisible zip from the Emery dress pattern, that you mention as I do this by hand. Is there another source?

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    1. There's a step-by-step tutorial on the Emery dress sewalong showing you how to attach the bodice lining to the zip by machine. Here's the link: http://christinehaynes.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/emery-dress-sew-along-sewing-bodice.html. Hope it helps, I've always found it really useful. x

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  17. I'm totally like you Jane! I always think I'm obediently following the instructions, but don't realise that I'm constantly taking shortcuts and using other methods I prefer. This is only really highlighted to me when I'm pattern-testing and forced to fiercely follow the instructions!

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    1. Yes! Pattern testing highlights it for me too. I'm always amazed at how much I normally deviate! x

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  18. I'm not an experienced sewer, so I tend to follow the pattern. However, I tend not too read directions too carefully, which can lead to some deviations. When I'm comfortable with an activity, I tend to sue directions - hope to get that way with sewing as I get more comfortable with it.

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    1. I've been guilty of not reading directions carefully as well. Sometimes I get away with it, sometimes I don't! x

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  19. I'm not sure I've got enough experience to deviate from a pattern much yet, deliberately anyway! I love this pattern, I'm definitely going to have to add it to my list for 2015!

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    1. It's a great pattern, well worth trying out. x

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  20. I'm starting to think that I'm the only one that hAtes bias binding with a passion! I'd much rather do facings! I never used to follow the rules but I try to follow them a bit more now to make sure I love the results! Although I do agree that the indie designers tend to put more effort into their instructions !
    Frankie
    Www.knitwits-owls.blogspot.co.uk

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    1. No, I think there's a whole gang of bias binding haters, so you're not alone! I agree that Indie designers definitely put more effort into the instructions - it makes life a lot easier for us! x

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  21. its funny, I made almost the same changes too. I love the mortmain dress pattern and am sat tying this wearing one!

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    1. Aw that's good to hear! And interesting that you made the same changes - great minds obviously think alike! x

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  22. I never stick to a pattern's instructions but that's half the fun about sewing. Years ago I would make a dress from an image in a photo in a magazine, always worked for me. The rule of thumb is to enjoy your sewing, I learn new skills with my sewing quite often. That's from someone who has been sewing since they were three and I am now 63.
    Love your blog Jane, such a talented lady.
    Rosie. xxx

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    1. Thanks so much Rosie! Having fun and learning new skills are two of the things I love most about sewing too! x

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  23. Great question! I read the instructions through and make sure I understand why they want me to do something before going off on my own because I've had some real mishaps when I just skimmed and then forged along blindly. Once I'm certain I understand the intention of the directions, then I just do what I want to do. For example, I'm the opposite of you- I hate fiddling with bias binding, especially on arm holes, so I do almost anything to avoid it! :)

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    1. I always read the instructions first too, it's good to get a picture in your head of what's going to happen. That's so funny about the bias binding, there are definitely two camps: pro bias binding and pro facings! x

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  24. Eeek I'm pretty guilty of not following rules! Unless it's a style I've never done before or unusual construction or something, I often either go with my gut or veer off to do my own thing, or just kind of glance as I go. (This would be how I made my first Lady Skater without realizing I was supposed to seam all the way from the sleeve to the hem, which made construction a lot easier the next time!) I'm a serial tweaker, too. Guilty!

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  25. Is it odd that I'm completely with you on all these points? I always pleat on the right side (didn't think there was an alternative way!), almost always finish armholes with a single fold bias tape, and still feeling unsure about exposed zips! I've actually got as far as purchasing a few exposed zips, but have chickened out when it comes to inserting them to a skirt/dress, due to the style of the garments. Maybe soon though...?

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  26. Oh I love your work! You always use such fun fabrics and patterns.

    I've just nominated you for the Leibster Award. Head over to my blog to find out some more about it. It's a really interesting way to find new blogs and share the love in the blogging community. :)

    http://printsregent.blogspot.co.uk/2015/01/lets-get-to-know-each-other.html

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  27. I love all your patterns and vintage look . I have been following you for a while and think its time to take the plunge and make something to wear. My mum has given me some vintage fabric which would look great as a top /shirt/blouse what simple pattern could I get started on thanks

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  28. I always find that I only dont stick to the rules is when they are too difficult.

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  29. Love the dress. Only change I'd make for my fit would be to use princess seams instead of darts in the bodice.

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