There's a rare sighting on my blog today - an actual muslin. I can only bear to make them about once a year, so consider yourself lucky Sew for Victory dress.
Even though some of the sewing is a bit slapdash, the muslin is very close to being the fit I was after. It's a tiny bit tight on me, but a perfect fit on Angie (my dummy) and she's about a 90% accurate clone of my body. My bust isn't quite the same as the dummy's, and my back, although as narrow as Angie's, is a bit more flabby fleshy. I decided I just needed an inch adding across the bodice section.
Once this is divided across all the seam allowances, we're actually talking teeny, tiny amounts, so I'm just going to decrease the bodice seam allowances by an eighth of an inch each. This is what I ended up doing with my Oolong dress after I cut the pattern a size too small by mistake (doh!) and it worked fine. I've also taken two inches off the length.
The only other change I'm making to the dress is to put a long 22" zip down the centre back piece instead of having a side zip. This is partly because of my loathing of side zips, but also for a more practical reason. It's actually a lot easier getting the bloody thing on and off with a long centre zip. In my experience I've found that with a fitted side-zipped dress or top, if you have any kind of bust then it's really difficult to get the dress over your boobs without fear of ripping it. As the fabric I'm using is pretty thin, I didn't want to take any chances, so a seam allowance was added to the back piece to allow for a zip.
As of today, my fashion fabric pieces are all cut out and underlined with silk cotton, just waiting to be sewn together. You never know, this time next week, I could be in possession of a darling Du Barry dress! Wish me luck. x
ooooo, so exciting! It's so inspiring to see projects reach the half-way mark, knowing all that is left is to put the final pieces together. Making your muslin will be well worth the extra effort I'm sure.
ReplyDeleteOh, oh, oh! It's looking beautiful and I can totally see you in this beauty Jane! I'm so excited to see this finished! I got to a similar stage with mine...and then my sewing machine broke on Sunday :o( It's looking like I'll be without it for a week, but at least I can spend that time cutting out my fashion fabric I guess!
ReplyDeleteThis is exciting. Seeing a muslin is like a bit of a tease, especially when you know exactly what you are going to do with it! Can't wait to see the finished article!
ReplyDeleteLooking lovely ;)
ReplyDeleteQuestion why the loathing of side zips? Wondering because I just had to sew one in 3 times before getting it straight, so I'm thinking I loathe them also haha
oh this is looking great! i'm also less keen on side zips (and i don't have the boob problem - i think it's much harder to get in and out of them) and definitely the right decision with thin fabric!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful. I can't wait to see the finished project. I LOVE forties style dresses!
ReplyDeleteThis muslin looks pretty fantastic on your dress form! I do love the bust draping. I don't think of myself as a "40s" person (more a 50s or 70s person), but I think I might need to reconsider.
ReplyDeleteYay, this is going to be awesome!! I actually love side zips but you are quite right about the boobs and getting it on, I do a little wiggle dance I think, often cursing halfway through why I didn't bother to remove my eyeglasses...
ReplyDeleteI have to get on the stick, yesterday I said I was going to cut out all my pieces last night but I was too tired, so I really must today. :P
This looks so pretty--even in the muslin fabric. I can't wait to see the real one!
ReplyDeleteOh what fun! I'm also super worried about side zippers. I suppose they are useful for people who can't zip themselves, but sometimes I wish we could be like men who only have openings down the front of their clothing!
ReplyDeleteIt's going to be beautiful...
ReplyDeleteI think it looks gorgeous! It's such a beautiful shape, so flattering. I can't wait to see the finished dress.
ReplyDeleteLove the pattern! It looks like it's coming along nicely so far. I have a really bad habit of not making muslins because I'm impatient, so kudos on taking the time to do one for this. Can't wait to see the finished dress!
ReplyDeleteYes, that's why I don't make them v often either! Impatience coupled with laziness in my case. x
DeleteThe pattern looks beautiful even in muslin! The finished dress is going to be stunning. I don't mind side zips in sleeveless dresses, but I agree that when sleeves, particularly fitted sleeves, are involved it can get tricky to get in and out!
ReplyDeleteJane I have currently stop sewing...why you ask because my friend insisted that I make a muslin before I sew her actual dress I am making for her. Since I started and left it I have no inspiration to go back to it. What do you do when you don't do muslins, do you just adjust as you go along? P.S. Love love the dress you are making right now!
ReplyDeleteThank you! Yes, I adjust as I go along if I don't make a muslin. I'm extremely lucky with fitting though, and often don't have to do much tweaking! x
DeleteIts going to be a stunning dress going by the muslin! It does pay to make muslins, i've been lazy and not done some and regretted it hugely!
ReplyDeleteI love the style of this dress! I can't wait to see the finished product.
ReplyDeleteJane, I think this is going to be so beautiful on you! I'm curious to see where you hem it. Good luck!
ReplyDeleteWow this is looking totally amazing, Jane!
ReplyDeleteThis is already looking amazing; it's going to be gorgeous on you!! :)
ReplyDeleteYour muslin looks fab, the real thing is going to be gorgeous! ! Good luck with it! :)
ReplyDeleteGood luck Jane, I cannot WAIT to see the final outcome! Wishing you lots of sewing success xxx
ReplyDeleteme encanta!! es precioso!! el patron esta en venta??
ReplyDeleteThat is one gorgeous shapely muslin- this will be gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteIt's looking really good! I have doing muslins too... usually I do force myself. I'm starting my Sew For Victory dress tonight!
ReplyDelete-Amy (www.thatssewamy.com)
HATE... not have LOL
DeleteGood luck with it, just seen your pattern - it's a beaut! x
DeleteIt's looking good Jane, can't wait to see the final dress. Bethx (thelinencat)
ReplyDeleteGirls just sharing, I've found this interesting! Check it out! http://www.fabricademargele.eu
ReplyDeleteOh this muslin is beautiful - I know it wouldn't work as a real dress but still - those gathers look fantastic in the simple fabric.
ReplyDeleteThank you. I do think the pattern looks great in a simple, plain fabric. I'm almost sorry I didn't go for a solid colour now! x
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